Thanks for the link, Gary. I started down that road a while back, trying to find someone who would do a test for me. Some of the places I found online wouldn't do it because I was not in their zip code. I was like, "Huh???" It didn't make sense to me. I don't know if it was a regional funding thing or what, but geeze, no one would take my dirt. :( I found one place on that list you sent that's at least in my area code, so that's the first place I'll call. Thanks.

Why don't you just purchase a complete organic granular fertilizer & follow the application directions on the package? Because it's balanced you wouldn't get too much nitrogen which makes for large tomato plants, but few fruits. Beans don't need much nitrogen either, but actually can improve your soil for the tomatoes next year if you alternate the rows. Too much of any one thing with individual soil amendments could cause a problem for your garden and you might not have time to correct & replant before your summer crops planting window is over. Like joel_bc amending the row or planting holes for tomatoes, but not the entire garden is reasonable & cost effective. I've lasagna gardened for our new mixed perennial beds, but not in the vegetable beds. It's amazing how much it composts down from where you mounded it all up. I have used a lot of sheet mulch of various ingredients over the years with great conditioning. I've used alfalfa pellets as a topdressing around flowering shrubs & heavy feeding perennials, but not in the vegetable garden. I also have put them in a watering can to dissolve in the sun warmed water in summer, but it really smelled after a few days. Plus where I piled it up & didn't mix into the soil around the hostas it attracted a stray dog that broke all sorts of plant stems getting into the flower garden. I used the diluted liquid for recent transplants to get them off to a good start when planted in our summer dry season & was only a light green not a dark green color. I would be careful about mixing it into the root zone soil of young plants, but should be safe as a diluted tea mixture. Since I prefer to use soaker hoses for summer watering of vegetable beds, mixing a complete fertilizer into the soil prior to seeding or transplanting is less labor than side dressing or watering with anything additional than tap water. Find out what the organic gardeners in your area add to soils. You don't always have time or money for a good soil test, but they can give you a good idea of the condition of local soils whether usually acidic or alkaline. For example in my area with 60+ inches of rain 9 months of the year we have acidic soils that need yearly fall lime + nutrients even in manure enriched soils. It simply washes out, so I follow the recommended application rate in the spring and use organic mulches as well. Nothing seems overgrown or out of the ordinary, but grows more quickly now than in years when I only used poultry & rabbit manures from our backyard animals. It's worth the extra $ to buy the complete organic fertilizer for me. The brands in my area are Dr. Earth or Whitney Farms and the application rate is different for each, so I just read and follow the directions each time I use it. Hope that helps~ Corrine

I sure do, gray. It's in Millbury called Roger's Farm and Garden. 508-865-1599. 269 W. Main Street. What they don't have in stock, they will order for you. I just recently had them order me some soybean meal and it was ready the next week. The alfalfa pellets (not sure about the meal) and soybean both cost about $11/50 lb. bag, but can go up and down in price to a degree. They are very nice in there and I'm glad I found them. It took me a long time to find a place in my area, and I'm getting ready to get some cornmeal or cracked corn for them this week.

"Should you water the grass afterwards?" Well, no, not necessarily. I attempt to apply the soybean meal when there's some rain in the forecast though. It really doesn't hurt anything if it sits a few days. One exception in my opinion is with alfalfa pellets. It's really best to water those in....when you water em, they sorta melt, breakdown some & go right to the soil & that gives a good start to the decomposition process. There may be some differing opinions, but that's my 2 cents Good day, Dan