OK, back. Organic feedings are slower trickles of nitrogen (and other resources) that feed the lawn gently over time and improve the soil while you're doing it. They also encourage lots of worms (a good thing) and insects that eat the feeding (also a good thing). How much depends. It's hard to overdo it--I couldn't manage and I was slamming the soil--and I generally recommend the same number of feedings you'd do synthetically, just at slightly different times. Organics take a few weeks to work, so you have to anticipate what the grass will want a little more. That's actually very easy. For synthetics like Scott's, my general recommendation is late May, early September, the first of October, and when the grass ceases growth for the season, as long as that's after October 21st (if not, the October feeding is fine). For northeast OH, I'd expect that you'll be performing that last feeding in early November, but the date will vary a lot either way. For organics, early to mid May, mid August to early September, October first, and then winterize with a synthetic when growth stops (organics don't make good winterizers, they're too slow and don't decay in very cold weather fast enough). I use plain old soybean meal on my lawn at 15 pounds per thousand square feet. For you, that'll probably also be a good option. Strength of organics varies--soybean and cottonseed meal are at the top with around 45% protein, or the equivalent of 7% nitrogen. Alfalfa, corn, oats, and so on are much weaker and would require larger amounts to provide an equivalent feeding. That can actually be a good thing--to transform my soil, I used copious cracked corn as it didn't overdo the nitrogen but added a lot of organic matter to the soil. But for feeding, they're inferior. For alfalfa, you also shouldn't exceed 20 pounds per thousand three times a year due to the growth hormones in it, but that's another story.

Now is not an ideal time to prune. Colder weather later in the season could very well damage wood exposed by this late pruning and increase winter dieback. I'd wait until late winter/early spring after the worst weather has passed and examine for truly deadwood then and remove. Nikko Blue behaves rather idiosyncratically compared to most macs and will often produce blooms despite rather severe pruning. Regular fertilizing, as is necessary for any containerized plants, may encourage more flowers. As to the look of the plant from the photos, if these were taken any time recently, I am confused as to what you are worrying about. It looks great, all things considered. It is the first of November afterall and even here in the rather mild PNW, most hydrangeas are looking pretty crappy - even more so now that we have just experienced our first hard frost. The only ones that look the slightest bit decent are the oakleafs which are in full fall color and hold their leaves well in cold.

Thanks Bill,wil do that and cut the inflo. And yes i have a small sort of greenhouse(indoor) with two 400 watt high pressure natrium lamps,timer (18hours light),carbonfilter and fire protection. So i am rooting whole year round,and use it also for older cuttings,wich didn,t root on heatmats(lack of sunlight also). This system is used for multiple purposes(www.igrow.nl) greetings,Michael

People who tell you to keep any particular plant rootbound are simply repeating what they heard or read somewhere, because they certainly couldn't have reasoned themselves into that position. IF one assumes a person is using a very water-retentive soil and can't seem to control how much water the plant is getting, then it might be better for the plant to be grown tight so it uses the water in the root mass faster and in doing so eases the limitations imposed by saturated soil. With that scenario, what's REALLY occurring is, the grower is deciding which of 2 evils is preferential by trading the limitations imposed by root congestion for the limitations imposed by over-watering. Obviously repotting so roots have room to run and changing to a soil that doesn't burden the grower with worry over soil saturation offers MUCH more potential for a happy plant because it doesn't have to deal with either set of limitations - root congestion or a soggy home for roots. Whenever I hear the notion voiced that a plant likes to be grown rootbound, I know the source of the advice either 'doesn't get it' or doesn't care enough about who reads the advice to qualify it, because it should never be given w/o qualifications. and even then there is little justification for it OTHER than in some cases it can force a greater profusion of blooms in conspicuously flowering plants. Al