When do I start my indoor seeds?
m_gold
8 years ago
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spartanapples
8 years agom_gold
8 years agoRelated Discussions
When do I start germinating my seeds?
Comments (8)See link below, it gives normal first and last frost dates for all over the US. How early exactly you want to start out depends a lot on what you're seeding, but my general rule of thumb is 4-6 weeks before the last frost date. For my area, last frost is April 3rd. It's suggestion of going 2 weeks earlier than that is generally a good one, so that would make it March 20th. 4-6 weeks prior to that would be 2/7-2/21. I'm getting antsy though, so I've already started quite a few peppers. I'll wait until end of Feb to start my tomatoes and corn though. Here is a link that might be useful: Frost Dates...See MoreWhen should I start my pepper & tomato seeds?
Comments (11)Hi marial1214, I'm in your same zone in PA, mid-north Montgomery County. I set out my tomatoes about May 1-15. I do everything a little early, so I'm risking frost. Last year, a late frost hit on May 19th, so I had to build tent cities with Xmas lights around my tomatoes. They were fine, but it was a lot of work. I find it to be worth it to plant them early. I set out my sweet and hot peppers based on night time temperatures, usually around June 1st. They and sweet potatoes are the only plants that I don't put in the ground earlier than recommended. For seed starting, I do the following: Hot Peppers: January 15th (but I will be starting the Habaneros next week) Sweet Peppers: February 15 Tomatoes: March 1 I have a VERY good light set up and my tomatoes grow thick, bushy and quickly. For all my plants, I pot up several times. For the tomatoes, I dig a deep (~12") hole, so even if they do get big, a fair amount of the stem is underground (they will put out roots from that stem). I've been doing some odd additions at planting time for the tomatoes: (bottom of hole) wool, crab compost, shrimp shells, Root Zone beneficial microbes, crushed calcium carbonate. I then water with Root Shield beneficial microbes (2T per gallon). The microbes/shrimp/crab compost is to prevent Verticillium wilt, but oddly, it also helped with late blight last year. The calcium carbonate is to prevent blossom end rot. Hope some of this helps. I've attached a link to my seed starting setup (can't find the one I posted on this forum) Good luck! Bellatrix Here is a link that might be useful: Bellatrix - seed starting light setup...See MoreDo I need a filter for my pond? When do I start/stop my bio-filter?
Comments (0)There is often debate over whether it's necessary to filter a pond, and always a few people who claim they have great luck with letting the pond "go natural" with no human interference. A man-made pond, though, is not a natural environment, and will only benefit from some form of filtration or at least aeration. Filtering keeps the water cleansed of organic wastes that can cause cloudy, smelly, murky, or even toxic water. It simplifies maintenance, conserves water by cleansing and recycling it, and can help create "gin-clear" water that allows optimal viewing of the pond and its inhabitants. If you plan on creating a water garden and keeping only plants in the pond, you should be able to get away with little or no filtration, depending upon the type and number of plants you grow. A small pump used with a spitter, fountain, waterfall, or similar feature, should create enough movement to keep the water from stagnating, and diligence in keeping dead plant life from accumulating in the water will help maintain water clarity. However, most people find that, once they've created the pond, they want to add fish, and this is when filtration becomes vital. The more fish you have, the more filtration is necessary to keep the water and the fish healthy. Fish produce ammonia from both their gills and kidneys. Ammonia is also produced from other organic matter decaying in the pond. Whatever the source, ammonia is toxic to fish and must be removed from the water. Frequent water changes and ammonia binding water conditioners will help temporarily, but the addition of a biological filter is the best and easiest way to deal with this toxin. Briefly, a biofilter works by creating a suitable living environment for certain types of bacteria which do the cleaning for you. As pond water is slowly pumped though the biofilter, Nitrosomonas bacteria consume the ammonia, turning it into nitrites (which are also harmful to fish.) Nitrobacter bacteria then oxidizes the nitrites into nitrates, which become food for the plants in your pond. Although these "good bacteria" are present on every surface in your pond, they are not usually there in large enough numbers to reliably cleanse the water of these compounds that are so deadly to fish, and so biofiltration is strongly recommended when there are fish in the pond. Mechanical filtration (that which removes solid waste) is always beneficial, but simply keeping the water clear of solids does not guarantee fish-safe water. Ammonia and nitrites can not be seen except through the use of water test kits. Ideally, water will first pass through some type of mechanical filter that removes solids prior to entering the biofilter, where the toxic compounds are oxidized to nitrates and sent back to the pond where the nitrates will be absorbed by the plants therefore keeping the pond healthy for both your fish and plants. These beneficial bacteria cease to function at temperatures below fifty degrees, so running the biofilter all winter is futile if you're in a cold winter area. The fish will not be eating and producing their usual amount of waste during the winter, so the biofilter will not be needed anyway. Once the autumn temperatures are below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, clean and store the biofilter until spring returns. If you're lucky enough to live in a warm climate, it should be kept running year round. Start the filter up again in the spring as the temperatures get into the upper 40s to low 50s. The nitrogen cycle takes about four to six weeks to establish once the bacteria begin colonizing in the warmer temperatures, so be diligent about testing your water for ammonia and nitrites if the fish are eating. It would take far too many pages to describe here all the types of filters available. Research and ask questions of more experienced ponders, and join several of the informative forums on the Internet. Do not always believe a manufacturer's advertisements, and if tempted to buy something being touted by a salesperson, research it before making an investment. There are many plans for do-it-yourself filters that are simple to make, produce excellent results, and are much less expensive than most of the commercial filters available. And remember - you can never have too large a biofilter! Ronaye, Steve and David...See MoreHow do you figure out when to start seeds indoors?
Comments (3)Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds has a useful one pager Scheepers' When to Start Your Seeds. Annuals generally grow quickly - pretty much if the plant originated in a warm climate - don't winter sow as it doesn't need cold - you can use the jug or whatever method, just wait until danger of frost is past (some seeds rot if cold and wet). If starting indoors using a heat mat and lights, use Scheepers' guidelines. If it's from a cold climate - winter sow. For uncommon seed, check the plant family (to find a match) or ask here. 8 weeks is a rule of thumb for most, but I like my peppers and eggplants a bit bigger - so I start sooner....See MoreTomatoZesty 9B Central CA:Coastline
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agospartanapples
8 years agoPeter (6b SE NY)
8 years agodigdirt2
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agom_gold
8 years agonanelle_gw (usda 9/Sunset 14)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agom_gold
8 years agoTomatoZesty 9B Central CA:Coastline
8 years agodigdirt2
8 years agonanelle_gw (usda 9/Sunset 14)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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