Since I save seeds from most of my vegetables in a short-season climate, I try to get them started as early as possible. For cucurbits, as already mentioned, you can't keep them indoors long, unless you have a light source as intense as sunlight. I start them maybe 2-3 weeks before the target date for direct seeding (depending upon species), and put them outside in full sun as soon as they germinate. If the weather cooperates, they get transplanted as soon as they have their first true leaf. The main advantage is better & faster germination than I might get outside, with fewer losses due to slugs & bugs. This also allows me to get the plants started on time if the soil is late to dry out in Spring (which has been a common problem in recent years). I've had great luck using peat strips for squash, cucumbers, bitter melon, and various other gourds. Since the entire pot is planted, there is no root disturbance. But if the weather warms up early enough, I will sometimes direct seed. In warmer climates than mine, direct seeding should be the preferred method. The decision of whether or not to start something as transplants may depend upon species - and even variety. I will direct seed acorn squash (which has a short DTM) but usually start the long-DTM winter squashes as transplants. Gourds that are eaten immature (cucumbers, summer squash) should usually be direct seeded unless you intend to save seed. True gourds (not the warted ornamentals, which are related to zucchini) require warmer soil temps & often have long germination times, so they can benefit from being started indoors. There is one other advantage to starting squash & cukes as transplants, though. I've gardened in locations where some years, cucumber beetles were so bad that they would destroy seedlings as soon as they emerged. I would grow plants as seedlings, transplant them into the garden, and immediately cover them with floating row cover. The row cover needed to be removed when flowering began, to allow pollination... but it gave the plants a chance to get established. I've never tried floating row cover over seeds, because I assumed it would cool the soil & delay germination... but for those with serious bug issues, it might be worth trying.

Wow! looks so great! what a nice harvest you had last year! Congratulations! Thank you for sharing the picts. Lynn

Hi, birdy! All of the things you've mentioned could be the cause of your yellowing leaves. We just don't have enough information from you to be able to 'guess' which might be the most likely.

you probably have a long growing season down there, so it should be great. Let us know how it turns out.