I think the images are shared here:

Tintin..How tall is the entire plant/tree now? It looks like fungi. I did some research on fungus w/house plants, and though some authors promote fungicides others are against using on indoor plants. Here's what it says: Fungicides are chemicals that kill or inhibit the growth of fungi, so it makes sense that using a fungicide might cure a disease problem. Unfortunately, this rarely works, for two reasons. 1. Fungicides are best used preventatively, before a disease becomes serious, because they are used more for stopping fungal 'spores,' from germinating than routing out an established infection. 2. Leaf tissues do not regernerate once they have been devastated by a fungal disease, so stopping the progress of the fungus does little to restore health. Save your use of fungicides for outdoor plants at high risk of developing fungal diseases, and use them to prevent, rather than cure, fungus problems. How often do you fertilize? Did you try flushing soil? For some reason, of all Dracaenas, Draco is most finicky. I have two Dracos, both started as babies, 'not seed though.' Both have some brown on leaves, though not circles. I tend to underwater, a little too much, plus both are underpotted, so brown leaves, and direct sun, 'direct' will naturally brown. If your Draco soil is old, maybe you should toss and use fresh, well-draining soil. Draco's cannot live in continuously wet soil, so make sure it dries between waterings. How often do you fertilize? Dracos are slow-growers, so they don't need much fert, it should be stopped entirely when plant goes dormant. If you do fertilize, what type of fert do you use? Chemical or oganic? I still think your Draco has a fungus, but if you're using chemical fertilizer, soil should be flushed..This is important. Salt build up leads to all types of problems, and most chemical ferts contain a lot of salt..plus the more you fertilize the more salt build up. So, if your Draco soil isn't too old, but you use chemical fertilizer, why not flush soil? It won't hurt. In the meantime, isolate your Draco from other plants. As the author states, fungi spreads through spores. Remove completely marred leaves, and trim leaves with brown edges and tips. Reduce fertilizers, when your Draco looks better, why not use an organic fertlizer like Fish Emulsion. Though I must warn you..FE has an odor. They sell an odorless type, but it still has a little fishy smell. lol..Still, a couple days of smell is worth saving a plant, especially one grown from seed. As for water..What I do is, since many plants can't endure tap water, I save used/cleaned milk containers then fill w/regular tap water..Let sit at least 24 hours. When plant needs a drink, the room-temp, tepid water is available. Good luck, Toni

Don't be offended, but the "Guaranteed analysis" of:Total Nitrogen (N) 0.01%, Water Soluble Nitrogen Soluble Potash (K20) 0.01%, Calcium (Ca) 2% puts the product high in the upper tier of products least likely to benefit your plant or help you succeed. It contains essentially nothing (1/10 0f 1 % nitrogen and potassium oxide is a miniscule amount) in the way of nutrients other than a little calcium, that if applied without including an appropriate amount of magnesium can induce an antagonistic magnesium deficiency. People have various views about how and when to fertilize because (easily) 99% of hobby growers have no idea how to take and keep control of nutrient management for their plants. What you fertilize with is important. It's essential that plants have all nutrients they normally take from the soil in the soil and available for uptake at all times. Most fertilizers don't allow you to accomplish that without using other products to supplement the primary source of nutrients. That's a headache and often doesn't end well. Also, your soil choice and watering habits are primary considerations in determining when it's appropriate to fertilize. E.g., if you're using a water retentive soil and are watering in sips, it might not be appropriate to fertilize AT ALL, from the period from mid fall through mid spring for fear the level of salts in the soil will rise to concentrations so high it makes it hard for the plant to take up water; but, if you use a highly aerated, fast draining soil that you're flushing every time you water, it's entirely appropriate to fertilize at low concentrations every time you water, which is what I do. I use Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 because it has all the essential nutrients plants normally get from the soil, in the ratio at which the average plant actually USES the nutrients. This is a significant advantage because it helps prevent the badly skewed concentrations of nutrients that end up in your soil when using fertilizers that provide nutrients in a ratio not even close to that at which they are actually used. It's simple and has all plants need for normal growth in one solution. Al

Is there a way to correct this? I bought one from a home improvement and got it home and it has started this same thing??