I figure this is a topic that I would like to chime in on. Salt pools in the US started becoming popular like Kelly said about 10 years ago. I as a pool builder am leary of any new technology that has not ben thouroghly tested. Even though I do install the systems when asked to I still give the pros and cons of using these systems. This all being said I have seen a trend over the past few years. For every salt system that I install I am removing 2 of the systems on other pools. Why is this you ask. In most cases it in the stone around the pool being washed away. And others are from equipment failures caused by the salt. Many will argue on here that salt is not corrosive and that bonding of a pool will solve these problems. I disagree. I build my pools properly and when I continue to have the same problems on salt pools that I do not have on Regular erosion feeder systems. I have to question what is the problem. And the common factor is the salt systems. Nothing else. As far as Ozone systems. this is another system that I do not believe in. I think it is a big waste of money. Just another gimic for you to buy to put on your pool. Now even though I do not see the problems with this system that you see with salt I do not see the benefit of using them. This all leads back to my personal opinion that they have been using chlorine for well over 100 years on pools and never have seen the service issues that we see today with all the different type of chorination and augmentations sytems that are installed now days. So if it ain't broke don't fix it. Good luck on the pool build.

The circuit board in our salt generator control box went bad after about two years. It had a 3-year warranty, so it was no big deal, except that it took me weeks and weeks to figure out that something was wrong. We had had a lot of rain, and I kept blaming it on the water just getting too diluted. I cleaned the salt cells. I tried to reset the box. Etc. Finally I did something and got an error message (I think, or maybe I'm confusing it with the spa heater, whose circuit board has been replaced twice due to rats chewing on it). and I finally realized that it really wasn't working.

In my area, there is no split between salt and chlorine. Everyone wants salt. My PB (and several of the many I interviewed) only build salt. Everyone I know (including my neighbors) who has chlorine is just waiting for the opportunity ($ and/or pool remodeling) to convert to salt. The non-stop rain for the past month really bites the chlorine folks in the wallet. Example: This weekend with no measurable chlorine left in the pool, I just spent $65 for 2 bags of salt, alkaline and salt shock. Also had to add stuff I already had on hand - stabilizer and phosphate remover (we have reclaimed water in our neighborhood), brushed, ran the pump for 12 hours, and the pool is back in balance and looks beautiful. We were swimming within 4 hours to cool off after a day of chores. This is the most work I've done all year. My neighbor spent $100 for chlorine and I don't know what else to get his pool going again. Not sure if they've been swimming yet, but usually with chlorine pools you're out for 12-24 hours after shock. So maintenance is a big factor, cost perhaps, too. We live on a salt-water canal and use reclaimed water, and have no more than usual issues with landscaping and metal parts on everything. I do have to polish the hand-rail once a year to keep it untarnished. The phosphates from the reclaimed is the toughest problem we have so far. The biggest thing is how lovely the water feels on your skin and in your eyes. No problem opening your eyes under water. We never smell chemicals at all, and enjoyment of the pool is the biggest factor. Can you tell we love our pool?

janesm....have you sampled the water coming directly from the cell while it's set at 100%. The chlorine reading using this method should be very high and off the scale if the cell is working properly. Make sure the cell is set to 100% to ensure it should be producing chlorine and not in a "resting" or "reversing" cycle. Turn the sample tube upside down so it does not fill with water and move it towards one of the pool returns while keeping it upside down. Once over the pool return, turn the sample tube right side up to fill it with water directly from the cell. Once it's full, put your finger over top of the sample tube so it does not mix with pool water while you're bringing it to the surface. Test the water as you do normally and if the cell is working the chlorine level will be very high. If the chlorine is low, then the chlorine generator system is to blame. If the chlorine is high, then something is demanding the chlorine quickly. Since your stabalizer level is 70ppm, it's not the sun reducing your Fc but something else...it may be algae, phosphates feeding the algae or some other bio-baddie in the pool...such as something dead in the skimmer or pump basket or small children using the pool frequently, etc. You may also consider extending the pump run time in the summer months to turn the pool 2x instead of the normal 1x. This will allow the cell to produce adequate chlorine at a lower setpoint which will extend the life of the cell. Also, during the summer, running the filter pump and producing chlorine at night is better than running it at daytime for numerous reasons. Hope this helps.