I have a John Deere STX38 Black deck. Sometimes it starts right up and sometimes it cranks but doesn't start. Last two days I have had to start it in high, has a little bunny labeled, then it runs and mows fine for about 10 minutes then it just up and dies. I can crank it over, but won't start. Voltage is good and getting spark, just won't start. Any suggestions? Ignition module maybe?

Hey folks, so I'm posting this follow up in my original thread because I think I have a related problem. Last year, I replaced the PTO drive belt and the mower blade drive belts on my inherited JD STX 38 Yellow Deck. Today I took the mower out (NOT the first time this season) and had some serious issues. First of all, the grass is tall - 18-24 inches. I had the mower height set to the tallest height. The grass may have also been slightly damp - although not wet. I was able to cut basically one path, then I realized that although the PTO was engaged, the blades weren't cutting the grass. I was going at the slowest speed (first gear) and even tried cutting using only 1/2 of the mower deck width at a time - no help. I took the mower back to my driveway, cleared out lots of old clumped grass from the blades, and started the mower and the PTO. The blades were definitely turning. I turned off the mower again, and noticed that the PTO drive belt is looking terrible - it's all pitted and slack - it's not tight around the PTO shaft! So, my theory is this: the PTO drive belt is shot again (Although not broken yet) - so the blade spin when I'm not trying to cut anything, but when I come in contact with any sort of grass of substance, the slack belt is "slipping" and resulting in the blades not cutting? Does this make sense? Solution: replace the belt AGAIN???? A few more things to note: 1) I tried cutting shorter grass and drier grass and had very little luck. 2) why would my PTO drive belt, just replaced a year ago, be so shredded already? That's worrisome... any advice would be appreciated. thanks.

Deere wiring diagrams don't actually tell where to look for an over-current device, at least not in words. And looking at a few STX diagrams online I see that Deere may even have used (on various production years) a fuse, or a circuit breaker, or even a fusible link...........to accomplish the same protection for this circuit. I can tell you in electrical terms where you will need to begin searching for whichever type of interrupter yours has, but you will still need to physically do the hunting. The fuse, circuit breaker, or the fusible link will be part of a circuit coming off of the BATTERY CABLE POST on the STARTER SOLENOID (not the solenoid starter cable post) . The circuit will be a small wire that is on the same post of the starter solenoid as the cable coming from the battery + post. If you can locate that wire and trace it you should find whatever your model uses. The circuit originates at the starter solenoid and ends at the key switch, and the circuit is in fact the hot feed for the key switch.

Best that you test the wire at the PTO clutch connector for voltage when the PTO switch is turned on. Do this with the key on, engine NOT RUNNING. If you do not have voltage at the clutch when the PTO is turned on, your PTO switch may be bad or there could be a broken wire between the PTO switch and the PTO clutch. If you DO HAVE voltage at the PTO clutch wire connector but the PTO clutch will not engage.......your PTO clutch has likely failed. You might even get lucky and find that wire broken or unplugged.