You can buy rolls of brown kraft paper made for wrapping trees. There are also white plastic spirals available for the same purpose. Thinned white latex paint also works to reflect winter sun. For the first two methods, it's best to wait until after several hard frosts before applying - this helps prevent any insect from taking up residence under the protective layer. The paint can be applied earlier or also just before deep cold sets in. Keep it out of the existing wound, though. Whatever method used, protect the bark from ground level to the lowest branches. It has traditionally been advised that the paper or plastic should be removed once the worst of cold weather is past, but many people don't. The paint washes off eventually by itself, but may be a bit unsightly until it does. You can also erect a burlap screen on the southwest side that doesn't actually touch the tree at all. For just a few trees, this method has much to recommend it - timing isn't an issue, won't hold moisture against the bark, once removed the bark is just as it was.

Thanks for responding, Jandey. This is a (supposedly) 5 years old plumeria. She has 3 tips, it even had an inflo and I had the honor to get an open bloom for a couple of days. I got it as a bday gift 3 months ago and she was in a 2 gallon pot. I just repotted her last week. When removing her from the old pot, I noticed she was root bound. Not enough room for hardly any soil at all. I had a 3 gallon ready for her and when I placed it in the pot to try it on, it was literally so small comparing with the roots that we decided to use the green pot you can see in the pic. Last month, while blooming, she got a bad spider mites infestation. So the only bloom that opened lasted only 2 days and fell, then she dropped all the other buds, then the inflo dried and fell off. I sprayed her with Neem oil solution but the infestation was too bad I guess, so then I sprayed her with Spectracide 3-in-1. It was fine after that, all new leaves and stuff, then about 2 weeks ago the leaves started again to get deformed, to yellow and fall. I got the advice to spray it again with Spectracide which I did, even though this time we couldn't see any spider mites. After spraying, she started losing the leaves again. What could I give her to help with getting more new roots? An egg at the bottom would help? Rooting hormone? Superthrive? She looks healthy, the branches are nice and firm, new leaves coming out beautifully, etc. Here's a pic when we repotted her last week. I appreciate any and all input! Thank you in advance! Mima

Thanks guys, I just found some "tomato dust" out in the barn, a copper based product that maybe I can use until I get into town again. Not too many tears are going to be shed over losing a couple of P.O.s, I think I have 11 of them planted, and maybe I can head this off at the pass for the other varieties with some copper spray. Any recommendations on the brand? Also, should I pull these plants or leave them to die a slow natural death? I was expecting a fairly high mortality rate being my first year growing so if I pull these, I will have approx 70 tomato plants left. LOL, hopefully, knowing my weakness can become my greatest strength (in the garden, anyhow)!

Here is an update on the tree. We had some pretty big el nino rains over the winter time, so I can see the bacteria/fungus happennig. I am not sure how old the tree is. maybe 2-3 years? When I took over the house, it had a few avocados on it, and I read that they don't produce until about the 4th year, so maybe it is older than 3 years? I want to clear out the grass beneath the tree, thinking they are just eating up any nutrients that should go to the tree. Should I do that? or does it not matter much with these trees? Here is a new photo of the tree and it's tag. From what I am reading, this tree is fairly frost tolerant? It has tons of these little buds now that you see on the first picture., I assume they are leaf buds. I only water it infrequently with a deep watering if it's been without rain for a while.