let it dry out for a few days, (unless its already dry) then water it and see if it perks back up. the trees roots will close and not suck up water if the soil has too much water in it which gives the look that its not being watered enough, this usually tricks people to water more when what the tree actually needs is a little draught period ( but not to long) hope that helps chris

So there are any holes in your ceramic pot?! The plastic pot is inside the ceramic pot? If so, this is your mistake. The surplus water from every watering will stagnate in the ceramic vase and the roots will develop root rot in no time. Aeration of the soil is also inexistent in this arrangement, so root rot in no time again. To save the tree: remove it's fruits, remove the roots from the current soil, cut away rooted roots, re-plant-it in some soil with at least 50% perlite or other aerated stones, and keep-it on top of the heater so that the soil temperature to be 23-28 degree Celsius. The pot that you will use needs to be smaller than the current one, with many aditional holes on the bottom, each at least 5mm in diameter! Use the ceramic pot for anything else ! Or dispose-it!

Don't over stress.... give it a chance to adapt to its new environment.

*Citrus Leafminer-(phyllocnistis citrella) *larva of the silvery moth *larva tunnel in immature leaves *moths can fly 5 km per night *15 km range in wind *they appear with new growth *As leaves mature they lose interest *Leaves curl up at the edges when the larvae form pupae *On mature trees, they are kept low by natural enemies *On young trees maintain continuous light oil cover o the new growth which inhibits moths from laying eggs into the leaves. *In Australia they use eco-oil (at 40ml per 10 liters) or pestOil at (50 ml per 10 liters) I don't use oils so maybe someone else can provide a suggestion on brand and dose.