Does the lower half of the garden level off? If you use the blocks, I have laid thousands of them, you absolutely MUST lay a buried, or partially buried, row. Depending on your soil, you may be able to just level it with native soil but it would be much wiser to put in a few inches of sand to level the bottom blocks. How much higher is the high end from the lower? Which way is the slope the long way or the short way? I raised the lower end of my one garden by eight inches by putting in old railroad ties from Menards. I protected my one rose garden from winds by putting a tie wall three high at the North short end but I am going to drop it down to two high. The entire garden has ties one level high with stair-case type rising to the high end. Whether you use landscape timber or railroad ties, buy twelve to sixteen inch spikes to fasten them together. There are long, I have used up to twelve inch, screws that are easier to install but cost more. A heavy-duty 3/4 inch drive drill makes putting the screws in easier. I have driven spikes in with a sledge but it takes practice as the most common error is not hitting the spike square and ruining the hammer handle. The base is VERY, VERY important or the wall will collapse or as happened to a person I worked with wash out from underneath in a heavy rain because they were in a hurry. I half buried layer of ties for the vegetalbe garden as it frop apprx six inches from one end and is not not level but does not wash in a heavy rain anymore.

I would like to make a rooftop garden in a very dry zone (9 or 10) Could anyone recommend practical books on the subject? Many thanks.

Oklahomarose, I tried Fescue ...once. I'm originally from Southern California, and although summers there are hot & dry, it didn't (used to be anyway) this hot! They have been in a terrible drought too. But, we would wear a long-sleeved shirt or light jacket in the mornings until ten and then don summer clothes until around 5 and then long pants and a long-sleeved shirt or light jacket again in the evening. Some nights, we even built a fire in the fireplace. My father grew Fescue out there. Too much work for me to get it going and not as tough as I need. I'm the freak around here. The feed store guy in town told me they didn't appreciate me moving here with my "Funny California ways of doing things." Oh well. I am growing St. Augustine grass on the South side of the house in part-shade with my Brown Turkey Fig. Both came from Louisiana where I lived for ten years before moving up here. I was told they would freeze here, but they are doing fine on the South side. I have to water them every day, but it is such a lovely lawn and I so enjoy those sweet figs in late summer. I love that area now. Cool and green. This past Fall, went drove to South Carolina to see the new grand baby. I cleaned out my daughter's flower beds for her and brought home all the Centipede Grass to try here. I planted it under the Weeping Willow on the North side and five clumps or seven survived the winter. I think that was pretty good since it wasn't even established yet before the cold hit. Those clumps are doing fine. Bermuda won't grow well if at all under trees, but the St. Augustine and Centipede do. I have cousins who live in Washington state, and they are ALWAYS trying to get us to move up there. They are gardeners too. I FEEL your pain and anxiety. ~Annie

I REALLY SYMPATHIZE WITH YOUR SITUATION BECAUSE MY YARD GETS MOSTLY SHADE AND I KNOW WHAT YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH THAT THORNY VINE WEED IN YOUR GARDENS. THAT WEED IS HEINOUS! IT IS PROBABLY SOME KIND OF NETTLE. EVENTHOUGH I WORK AT A NURSERY, I WOULD NOT CONSIDER MYSSELF AN EXPERT, ALTHOUGH I DO HAVE SOME USEFUL EXPERIENCE AND KNOWLEDGE. DO NOT USE ROUND-UP TO KILL ANY WEEDS AROUND GRASS OR OTHER PLANTS THAT YOU WISH TO SURVIVE. ROUNDUP IS A GREAT TOOL; HOWEVER, IT KILLS EVERYTHING. IT IS MEANT MORE FOR WEEDS POPPING UP BETWEEN CRACKS IN CEMENT, CONCRETE, ECT. YOU WOULD WANT TO USE SOMETHING LIKE A BRUSH-B-GON BY BAYER OR A WEED KILLER THAT ONLY KILLS VINES, WOODY WEEDS, AND BRUSH--NOT THE PLANT OR THE LAWN. AS FAR AS YOUR SOIL---ANYTHING YOU PLANT DIRECTLY IN YOUR SOIL, YOU WOULD WANT TO ADD SOME KIND OF A COMPOST---PREFERABLE A PLANTING MIX WITH A LEAF COMPOST, PEAT MOSS AND OTHER ORGANIC COMPOUND MIXTURE---- AND MIX THAT 50/50 WITH THE EXISTING SOIL. THIS WILL AMEND THE EXISTING SOIL AND AT THE SAME TIME PROVIDE A GREAT PLANTING MEDIUM. ALSO, A LOT OF PEOPLE MAKE A MISTAKE WITH THE FERTILIZER. PLANTS SUCH AS HOLLIES, AZALEAS, PHODODENDRONS, CAMELIAS,EVERGREENS, ETC. ARE ACID-LOVING---SO THEY LIKE A FERTILIZER SUCH AS HOLLYTONE OR MIRACID. I SUGGEST HOLLYTONE BECAUSE IT IS GRANULAR AND SLOW-RELEASE. MIRACID IS JUST AS EFFECTIVE; BUT YOU HAVE TO RE-APPLY IT EVERY THREE TO FOUR WEEKS. HOLLYTONE FFEDS UP TO THREE MONTHS. I SUGGEST OSMOCOTE FOR AN ALL-PURPOSE FERTILIZER. THEY HAVE AN OUTDOOR/INDOOR VARIETY AND A VEGETABLE/BEDDING VARIETY. I HAVE ALWAYS HAD SUCCESS WITH BOTH, DEPENDING ON WHAT I AM PLANTING. GOOD LUCK AND HAPPY PLANTING!