Ya, nutrient levels may not be as toxic if the nutrient is less available. This is more of the case with organics. Ironically, this is a problem on occasion when taking some organic vitamin supplements, as unavailable components may be passed without absorption. Further, manures containing phosphorous can be a problem in some areas, as runoff and leaching pollute groundwater. In fact, even chemical fertilizers are different in different regions because of naturally occuring levels of phosphorous: you don't need as much in the midwest. Long and short of it- excessive use of manures- composted or not- may lead to water pollution issues. As one component in a compost containing lots of other stuff- no biggie. Think about this- where does phosphorous in manure come from? It's nutrient that was incorporated into a plant that was eaten by livestock, concentrated, and passed as waste. Now you take that nutrient- that started out in someone else's soil, possibly as a chemical fertilizer, and you bring concentrated nutrient into your yard. If your yard doesn't really need it, which seems the likely case, then why bring it in? As a lot of folks say here- if you feed the fungi in your soil- they will make the nutrient available to your plant roots. We are fertilizer happy. Organic or not- adding fertilizer makes us feel like we're doing something. I have amybe a dozen bags of UCG's waiting to be spread or used, so maybe I'm as guilty as anyone. As soon as you have a reasonable cycle going in your yard, you should need very little additional nutrient. Here's what I mean- if you have healthy plant growth, then you can assume that you have healthy levels of the needed nutrients in your yard. If you have a good humus level, then the nutrient will not be so soluble that you lose it in runoff. The plant uses nutrient and incorporates it into foliage. That foliage is eventually composted or used as mulch. The nutrient gets recycled. Nitrogen may be lost in the process, unless you have legumes etc. that harvest nitrogen right out of the air. Be vigilant about returning to the soil the nutrient that your plants incorporate into their foliage. The plants harvest N (if you have any legumes) as well as C right out of the air. That carbon ends up as humus in the soil when you mulch or compost falling leaves, trimmings, etc. This may sound like a familiar cycle/scenario: nature does it VERY effectively all around us, without intensive maintenance or addition of unneeded materials. Other nutrients are recycled, and added in reasonable amounts when you use a little manure, or other stuff if needed. Really, the big reasons to add anything, IMO, is that we try and grow exotic species, we don't often grow legumes that do work for us (I'm getting busy on doing that part for myself), we grow food that we eat and then the nutrients are lost into sewer systems (I don't do humanure, so I'm guilty here as well), we procure foods off of that land and need to deal with waste (composting scraps- the opposite of growing your own food), we aren't fanatic about returning nutrient (burn brush or firewood?) or don't do it quickly and therefore have to supplement short-term (brush piles, throw out diseased plants rather that composting). All that said- I'm a big fan of free coffeee grounds and OPL. I heat my house with wood off my property, so composting these ingredients is like harvesting what my woodstove spews into the air. Striving for carbon-neutrality :) I also have poor soil from the previous owner and from what I've had delivered. I am looking forward to having that "cycle" that I talked about- reasonable or not.

Your pH is in the slightly acidic range, which is right where you want it so you don't need lime or sulfur. Nitrogen is a little on the low side in your test and since it's so transient in soil, it's probably even a little lower now. Potassium, calcium and magnesium are ample. Boron is safely low but sufficient for turf grass nutrition. Copper is on the low side but copper deficiencies are rare in turf, especially in acid soils. Manganese, zinc and iron are all below optimum. Phosphorous can be supplied with triple super phosphate (0-50-0). I'd shoot for about 2 to 2 1/2 lbs. of actual phosphorous per 1000 sq.ft. so the above fertilizer broadcast at around 4 or 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. would do the trick. Another option to supply both phosphorous and nitrogen together would be ammonium phosphate (16-20-0). If you're using that fertilizer, base your application more on the nitrogen content. A good rate would give you about 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. which would be 6 1/4 lbs. of monoammonium phosphate (16-20-0) per 1000 sq. ft. That would only give you 1.25 lbs. of phosphorous but that probably would be find as long as you pick up the slack in your maintenance program. (turf grass is pretty forgiving when it comes to phosphorous). Of the low micronutrients, iron and zinc are the most likely to cause your grass to yellow. A good way to head off those deficiencies at the pass is Sprint 330 +Mn applied at the manufacturer's label rate. It provides chelated iron and soluble manganese, which works just fine in acid soils. Follow all fertilizer applications with a thorough irrigation.

If it were a blueberry shrub, I would suggest 3/4 cup of sulfur, half in the bottom of the hole, and half scattered on top of the soil, but under the mulch, right after planting. That would be enough sulfur to lower the pH by a point or maybe 2 points, maximum. Bear in mind that sulfur has to be metabolized by bacteria that live in the soil, so it takes two years for the process to be completed. Here in Wisconsin, where I live, our native soil is high in iron, so I don't ever add iron sulfate or supplemental iron. The shrubs can get the iron they need from the soil, when the pH is in the correct range.

In my opinion soil tests are an expense you can do without unless you are having problems. Having said that, one person's problem is another person's success story. For example your problem might be that your neighbor always wins yard of the month and your lawn always comes in second. Then you might want to get a better soil test (from Logan Labs in Ohio) and let morpheuspa give you his opinion on how to tune it up. About all we know from yours is you don't need to add lime...EVER. As for "trying to go organic," just do it. There's no "trying" if you just stop using chemicals and use organic fertilizers and organic solutions to insects, weeds, and disease. With a Palmetto St Aug you should never see another weed. Mow at your mower's highest setting, or, since Palmetto is a dwarf variety, one notch below the highest setting. Then water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means one full inch all at one time. Infrequently means monthly this time of year shortening the frequency until you are watering once per week in late June, July and August. If you try to water more frequently than the grass needs it, then you are just encouraging weed seeds to sprout. I have been organic since 2002 with my St Augustine lawn(s). I have a house in San Antonio, one in George West (for sale if you want to move there) and in Bandera, Texas. I just moved to Bandera and the lawn was about 1% St Augustine. The current plan is to encourage only the St Aug and to let it cover to fill the rest. With perfect weather that would take two seasons. We'll see what happens. Back in 2002 the light bulb went on for me concerning organics. I realized that the ingredients in the best commercial brands were simply animal feed like soybean meal, alfalfa, corn, animal byproducts (feather meal), and other ground up nuts, beans, and seeds. When you buy animal feed at a feed store, you save about 80% of the cost of commercially bagged organic fertilizer. I started using only ground corn meal to fertilize. For years I was applying at 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. At first it worked well, but later the grass began to thin. For whatever reason I doubled the amount and everything was good again. I was starving the soil microbes at 10 pounds per 1,000. Then the Chinese started buying our corn and the price went way up. Then (about 2011) I switched to alfalfa pellets. Those things are great at 20 pounds per 1,000. Speaking of microbes, those are the guys you are feeding with organic fertilizer. You can forget about nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. What you want to focus on is protein. Carbohydrates are the carrier, but protein is what you're after. And it has to be available to the microbes. Feather meal is not immediately available like the ground grains. Feathers take forever to decompose and don't make a great fertilizer. Get to know the protein content of the grains you have available at your local feed store and buy what...