Maples (Acer species) When mature, maple fruit (samaras) turn from green to yellow or brown and fall to the ground. Collect mature fruit from the lawn, driveway, or gutters. There is no need to remove the seed from the fruit. The fruit of red (Acer rubrum) and silver maple (Acer saccharinum) mature in late spring or early summer. Neither requires a pregermination treatment and should be planted immediately. The fruit of most maple species mature in the fall. Sow seed directly outdoors in the fall or plant stratified seed in the spring. Seed of the sugar maple (Acer saccharum) should be stratified for 40 to 90 days at 33 to 41 F, while seed of the Norway maple (Acer platanoides) require 90 to 120 days at 41 F. Plant the seed (fruit) 1/4 to 1 inch deep. Either lamps will be fine. Some species seeds germinate better in the dark, others in red light, but I can't find any problems like that on google search. CRI is not relevant for plant growth, I think you seedlings will grow well with either just P&A, or just daylight 6500K, or a combination of both. The general rule with fluorescent lamps is the more lumens the better, and P&A do not have any practical advantage over any other modern high light output lamps. Sativa.

My recessed lights are 3000K. I saw several temperature bulbs lit on display at Home Depot before I bought. Agree that the 2700 is somewhat yellowish and...IMHO, trying awfully hard to be incandescant. The 3000Ks are just a bit brighter and work nicely for us. We had old, buzzing, flickering 4100K in our previous kitchen and it really reminded me of a hospital (although I suppose the CRI was probably low, too). While I liked the 6000K bulbs, they are really bright. I just thought it might be weird to flick on the lights at 11 pm and see...high noon, instantly. But that's an easily avoidable issue, since if it's pitch dark and you didn't want to blind yourself with light, you could just use your undercabinet lights alone.

hk-san-diego, Thanks for the information. I appreciate it. Your information about the percentage dimablity for each type of bulb is VERY important. Regarding the 1.5 calculation: My kitchen is 10 by 14 = 140 sq ft x 1.5= 210 watts. I assume that is florescent. Times 4 for an incandescent wattage equivalent or 840 watts. Currently I am using about 160 watts florescent but getting 12800-14000 lumens. To me, lumens is the important factor, because I have seen 65watt equivalent fluorescents range from 550 to 750 lumens. As you mentioned there are other factors. How much light from a bulb gets lost in the fixture or on the ceiling, etc. The reflector lights seem more efficient and effective since the light is focused down. I feel that a 65 watt equivalent florescent reflector might give the same light below as a 100 watt equivalent spiral clf, maybe. Light color is important to me. GE has a 4ft tube florescent that I used for years that is for kitchen and bath. There is one color: 3000k. I like the color and it does look good in my kitchen. Problem is that when they came out with their dimmable 65watt equivalent reflector it is only in 2700k. I cannot find a dimmable 65watt 3000k reflector. I probably will end up with 7 - 65watts equivalent, 3000k, non-dimmable split on 2 switches to get a reduced light level when needed. What you said about the 60% dimming (without problems) makes that solution easier. Thanks again, Bob

It's just me just being a little supportive to your ( factual) views of a certain individual. If someone wants to use Anthonys' suggestions it's up to that person. Although IMVHO they should also ask Anthony if he will buy a replacement plant that they use to follow his suggestions. Thinking at least one step ahead in the Anthony game of his rules After replacing them lost plants by use of his advice could lead to a thin broken wallet & he wont be able to afford the computer to give ill advice over the internet. The posted pics are for those who are interested in different potting materials that show a real time view with air temps in the high 80's today They are also intended to show that different materials pots are made of help and reduce the amount of heat a pot will allow in The pots do the work when it comes to heat absorption being lower inside they allow more heat retracting or heat resistance They assist this user greatly with inner pot heat management ( control ) As heat ( that sometimes hit 100's F ) is also a concern here during the dryer one day more humid the next day up and down at will summer season here. I had suggested that a growing plant needs more water more frequently in it's growing season one of them plants goes dormant during the winter Unfortunately Anthony would be right in just one very minor detail. I would be doing something wrong if I watered that one as heavily and as frequently as I water it now. Understanding that in late fall - winter it's going to be dormant, as EVERY DAY means 365 days to me it would be a very dead tree (rotted beyond and deeper than the grave dead). Fall- winter into early spring the succulent type in the smaller pot goes under lights it gets a less frequent watering regiment as it does outside but watering volume remains pretty close to the same at times.