If you want to keep getting zukes till frost, then yes, you need to plant another plant or 2. As to production, assuming you are adequately fertilizing the plant, in the past I would have said your plant is low in number and slow to produce but that it should pick up substantially if you get a good long stretch of hot weather. In normal years I usually see 6-8 zukes in various stages of development on each plant on any given day. BUT, given all the pollinator problems everyone is having this year, unless you are hand pollinating daily I don't think you will see anything near normal production this year. I have 6 zuke plants and 3 yellow crookneck this year and the only fruit I have on them is the ones I hand pollinated myself. I am even risking SVB this year because I removed the row covers I usually use in the hopes of some normal pollination. None so far. Hand pollination is easy and there is a faq on this forum on how to do it. Good luck. ;) Dave

MSW----Masters in Social Work? Just a guess. Since I grow mostly ornamentals I have a lot of choices. I choose not to grow plants that the bugs like to the point I would have to consider using a pesticide on them for all the reasons listed above. I do put up with a little cosmetic damage here and there, but there is no use in growing a plant that is not suited to where I live. One of the reasons to garden is to let nature teach me, instead of me teaching nature. I garden to learn and to see the beauty of nature.

Any glysophate product will almost kill any plant it contacts, that is supposedly what is is for. However, many plants have been developing resistance to these products and some have even gotten the gene that made some plants resistant to these. There is never any really good reason to use this stuff since there are other ways, less environmentally harmful, to get rid of unwanted plants. One of the better ways to eliminate crab grass is to grow a good, healthy stand of a more desireable grass, but you also need to know if you have just the annual crab grass or the perennial crab grass or both. To start growing a good, healthy lawn that will crowd out this crab grass get a good, reliable soil test so you know what soil nutrients are there and what the soils pH is. Correct any problems found and determine also how much organic matter is in your soil and increase that too. Then seed in, or sod, a turf grass that is a good match for your climate, and feed, water, and mow that grass properly so it grows in thick and lush and crowds out the crab grass. The annual crab grass needs a fairly warm soil temperature for the seed to germinate so a thick stand of grass, cut long wil lshade the soil and prevent that.

Yes, your soil test is good. Your pH is in the sweet spot. Nothing is deficient. Phosphorus is listed as medium. I don't know which extractant was used so I can't interpret the ppm number. But medium would indicate that it won't hurt to have more but it's not necessary. High would mean don't add any more. Very high would mean definitely don't add any more. The 10% KBG, 90% TTTF (by weight) would give you about 50% of each. It's because the KBG seeds are so small. Since you have picked out your cultivars, you can find out how many seeds they have per pound. Look them up online or call the producer. Gylphosate is gylphosate and the brand is unimportant. Some products have some additives. Plain gylphosate is fine. The mesotrione in the Scott's starter will prevent germination of many kinds of weeds. Crabgrass isn't an issue in the fall. But there are other weeds that will want to grow along your new grass. The mesotrione gives your grass about a month's head start. The weed prevention is short lived but if the grass gets established, it can then shade out weed seeds. You would think with the weed killing beforehand and encouraging weed seeds to sprout and then killing them that weed seeds would be taken care of. It definitely helps. But weeds will come up after seeding. In an even race between weeds and grass, weeds win. They're just stronger. But give grass a head start by suppressing weeds, and grass can win. Urea (46-0-0) is an inexpensive fertilizer. It is very fast acting and you must water it in. Applying 2 lb/k will give you just under 1 lb/k of nitrogen. There is no phosphorus or potassium. It would be a good choice for the late fall application after the grass has stopped growing but before the ground freezes. You would find it at a farm supply or feed store. It can be used earlier in the fall if you spoonfeed it (like 0.5 lb/k every week or 1 lb/k every two weeks). I doubt you want to be spreading anything that often. Or watering it in. But price wise, it is the least expensive way to fertilize. For the part of the yard you're not renovating, a normal sized early fall application and a late fall application will give you 2 lb/k of nitrogen a year, which would be enough for fescue. Leaving the clippings on the lawn when you mow will help fertilize. I would suggest a more complete fertiizer, like your soil test recommends, that is slow release for the early fall and urea for late fall (applied right before rain). For the area you're renovating, use more fertilizer. KBG likes a lot of nitrogen. Aim for 4 lb/k of nitrogen a year, but 3 lb/k may suffice. If you do 4, do 3 lb/k in the fall (August or early September, early October, late fall) and 1 lb/k in late spring. If you do 3, do 2 1/2 lb/k in the fall and 1/2 lb/k in the spring. You can see how much nitrogen you're getting by dividing the N number on the fertilizer bag into 100. That gives you the lb/k rate to get one lb/k of nitrogen. Those NPK numbers are percentages. The Scott's starter with mesotrione (they also have a kind without) is 21-22-4. That means 21% is nitrogen, 22% is phosphate, 4% is potash. Another fertilizer option is organic fertilizer. It would probably be more expensive than synthetic fertilizer and you have to use more product. But it may be something to consider. There is Milorganite that you can buy in a bag most anywhere. But grains can be used for fertilizer: soybean meal, alfalfa pellets, cracked corn or cornmeal, cottonseed meal. I used 25 lb/k of cracked corn this spring and I got 150 lb for about $25 which took care of my 6k yard. Dethatching and scalping will suffice. The light frequent watering to keep the soil moist during weed killing and seeding is just a few minutes, like 5 minutes or so. The goal is to keep the surface moist without puddling or runoff. One inch of water a week is meant to supply water 6 inches down into the soil. You don't need it 6 inches down at seeding. That's for later on, like next summer when you want to keep the grass alive.