I just rooted some compacta cuttings myself. I cut them into approx. 4 or 5 inch lengths, stipped the leaves from the bottom 2 inches, exposing at least one node, dipped them into rooting hormone (optional) making sure at least one node was covered, shook off excess, and then popped them into holes I made with a stick in 4" pots of soil, 3 or 4 cuttings per pot. I just use a good quality potting soil that does not contain plant food or wetting agents and mixed in some extra perlite. This is the same way I root all my cuttings, be it hoyas or any other plant. Works for me. In 2 weeks time, tug GENTLY on the cutting and you will be able to feel if there are roots holding on to their place. With the common, easy to root hoyas, (carnosas etc) you could even put the cuttings in the pot you plan on growing the plant in, though I wouldn't go any bigger than a 6". If you want to play it safe, maybe because more cuttings would be hard to come by, stick to the 4" pots and then transplant into a 6" pot or hanging basket in a few months, after the cuttings have been able to develope a good root system and are showing new growth. I've done it both ways with success. Good luck!

Ines 99, here is a photo instruction I copied from GW. I don't remember who's post it was but worked for me. Here's the basics: I think it's easier to do all this if you have two browser windows open - one on photobucket and one on gardenweb. Go to photobucket(dot)com and open an account. It's free, takes only a minute, and is no harder than signing on to GardenWeb. There are other photo posting services but I think this one is the easiest to use. Once you have the account you'll see how easy it is to upload your photos to photobucket. You can set up sub-albums with one click of the mouse, so you can sort your photos into different subject (more on that below). When they are there, you'll see three little 'addresses' under each picture. Highlight the middle one - the TAG line - and 'copy' it. (You can copy it by right clicking on your mouse and selecting 'copy', or by clicking on EDIT at the very top of your computer screen.) Once it's copied, go to the GardenWeb message you are composing and paste the TAG line directly into the text of your message. Don't put it at the URL line under the text box. At this point you will only see text, but once you choose to view your message you'll see the photo. If it comes out too big, then go back to photobucket and choose the EDIT button over that photo. You'll have the option there to reduce the photo by 75, 50, or 25 percent. 75% makes it a good size for these messages, but 50% works too. Try both on different photos and see what you like. Technically I think you can post as many photos as you want in each message but remember that not everyone has a high speed line and try to keep it to 5 or less. More than that makes it pretty slow to load for some. Here's the sub-album tip about photobucket or any other service you use: set up sub-albums for different subjects so you don't end up with 200 photos in one album. For example, I have Garden 2005, Garden 2006, House Shots, Yard Sale (where I post photos for things I am selling through the newspaper or eBay), All the Muffins (pet pictures), etc. Besides making it hard to find something if you have it all in one album, if you ever decide to move photos later, any link you've posted on the web will be lost.

When you moved the plant to a bigger pot how big did you go? A 4" pot would have been the best size until a larger root system formed. I think you are right to suspect the cool temperature as the cause of rot. I have had this happen with Hoya imperalis during the winter before. Hoya bicknellii has very hard succulent leaves when they are mature so I think it will be very capable of rooting without becoming stressed. If you are using an aquarium and can get the day time temperature to get nice and warm then it should root easily. Maybe a light bulb could serve as your source of extra warmth. As for the length I would do whatever works best in the rooting tank. I like to use longer cuttings but in any case cutting off the bare vine above the last set of leaves is perfectly fine. I find this species to be very top heavy and awkward as a cutting so maybe smaller is better in this case, say two sets of leaves per cutting. Are there small leaves developing on the bare vine yet? Mike

In Florida, yes. But we have had our share of cold fronts come thru the past few years and bring us into the 30's at night. A week later we may warm up and get some warm days with some humidity so, I would say mostly yes for here. I have done it a few time and am about to whack apart my out of control multiflora and start a new pot and do it this week before the darn thing tips over. I think the others that live in the colder areas all use rooting chambers or the like. I guess it depends on the set up, etc. Others will let you know how they do it. Marco