I repotted in pots that are bigger than recommended. Now what?
Kathryn Lee
8 years ago
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I ordered too much! What sizes pots to re-pot in?
Comments (18)70 miles away is far. If it must be pots, your plants can be OK in pots. Most gardeners have a more or less permanent pot ghetto in any case! I would keep the pots in part shade whenever that is possible. If they have to be in full sun for awhile, do check them every morning - as you head off for work, for example, or when you get home, if you usually get home before dark. Plant in a mix of potting soil and bagged topsoil. This would be my personal preference for water conservation, even though potted plants generally don't want heavy topsoil. I think any pots that give your plants some room to grow without being the size of Kansas should be fine. Trays or water-catcher things under the pots may help save you some watering work. In zone 5, if you can't get everything into a permanent planting spot by October, use the holding bed idea but just drop the plants (in their pots), into the soil. Plants in pots are vulnerable to freezing. Some people are able to overwinter stuff in pots in an unheated garage but from back when I lived in z5 I know for a fact that, when it was -12 outside, it was -12 in my garage. That's too cold for most potted plants, even if they're hardy in the ground....See MoreNew Bearss Lime in 5-gal nursery pot - repot now, or later?
Comments (10)I finally had a chance to take a picture today while battening down the hatches to prepare for The Big Rain arriving tomorrow. I've chosen two different plastic pots, both of which fit into the ceramic pot on the far left. I'm leaning towards the plastic pot on the far right - it's just slightly larger than the other one, and a better fit for the root ball. By the way, that's my tiny Nagami Kumquat (true dwarf) in the upper left corner. Since we bought it about 12 years ago, it's been in a very large pot, then a smaller (better size) pot, and finally planted in the ground more than a year ago. It's still small but loaded with fruit. I'm hoping it will grow taller this year....See MoreRepotted plants, but I'm now afraid I did it wrong...
Comments (24)When you repotted, was the potting mix dry and, if so, did you mechanically mix water into it before using it? As someone above mentioned, absolutely dry peat moss repels water. Water usually needs to be mechanically mixed into dry peat moss, so it is uniformly moist, before it is used. Small talk: Many years ago, I had two flower boxes on the garage that were filled with peat- lite mix. During the winter, the mix dried out. My mother would habitually use these flower boxes as ash trays to extinguish her cigarettes. One day there was a smoldering fire in one of the boxes that made a big stink. I flooded it with water from a garden hose, but that didn't extinguish the fire. I had to dump out the contents and stir water into the peat-lite to put out the fire....See MoreShould I repot Croton and Rubber Plant now if soil is less than ideal?
Comments (7)You can pot up anytime, though very late spring to early summer would be ideal. I'd wait until mid-June to do a full repot, which includes bare-rooting and root pruning. Plants have natural rhythms (search Circadian and/or endogenous rhythm). Over the course of the plant's rhythmic growth cycle, their stored energy levels and their ability to create energy/food waxes and and wanes. In most cases, to repot (as opposed to just potting up) a plant when its energy stores and ability to create energy are both on the wane is to ensure a much longer recovery period. Repotting and root work is a heavy hit for the plant. It draws down the plant's energy reserves much faster than would occur if you repotted in June, when both energy stores and current photosynthesizing ability are reaching peak levels would be at peak. Since a plant's natural defenses are a byproduct of it's metabolic rate, it's not difficult to see how a significantly weakened plant with compromised ability to defend itself, combined with a longer recovery period work in concert to make the plant far more vulnerable than it would be if you were patient enough to sync with the plant. Ecclesiastes 3:1 To every thing there is a season, and a time to every purpose under the heaven: Your plants aren't in danger of serious decline due to root congestion, and they are small enough that, even if the soil they're in is VERY water-retentive, you can use a work-around that requires no special tools, materials, or knowledge, other than an understanding of how to put Newton's First Law of Motion to work on behalf of your self and plants, which I'm about to describe. When you water, water to beyond the point of saturation. The entire soil mass should be at maximum capacity and a good measure of the water used in your watering exercise (at least 15-20%) should have exited the drain hole. After the pot has stopped draining of its own accord, hold the recently watered planting over the sink and move it up and down. You'll soon see that on the reversal from downward to upward motion, quite a bit of water exits the drain hole, and the sharper the reversal, the more water exits the pot. An object at rest stays at rest and an object in motion [the water in the pot] stays in motion with the same speed and in the same direction unless acted upon by an unbalanced force. When water ceases to exit through the drain hole, you'll have removed ALL perched water that has the potential to be of any consequence. Last, but not least, we all have a 'nurturing bone' - we like to take care of things. Knowing that you're planning for your plants' future in a way that allows you to take advantage of its strengths and make allowances for it's weaknesses for no reason other than it's in the best interest of the plant, offers the grower a much greater sense of personal gratification than an approach that lacks that planning. Al...See Moretapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7