Transplanted maple seedlings last spring but kept inside all winter...
Jesse Clark
8 years ago
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Kev (z7b NY)
8 years agoJesse Clark
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Winters of past, last year - what did you lose?
Comments (63)CMK, I remember reading you have drainage issues. We had a little bit of that ‘wet without draining’ in early spring, a couple of times when it rained and the ground was still frozen. I thought I was going to have trouble and I don’t know why I didn’t. I normally have good drainage though, so that must make the difference. I’m sorry you don’t. :-( That must be a particularly aggravating problem. I wonder if you’ve ever considered raised beds? I had plants very slow to show up this spring, so I was considering that I might have lost them, and at the time, I was thinking maybe I should add more conifers, until I visited the Conifer forum in the spring and they were posting long lists of plants they lost! So, if you are thinking about it, I’d read some of their posts on which ones they lost. :-) Mnwsgal, sorry to hear of your losses too. I have never had much luck wintering over in the garage. And the snowplow frequently digs into some edge of the front yard. We have a bed that borders the street, but it has a rock edge to it, which I suppose must help. Of course, they don't actually see the rocks under the snow, and once they did plow into those. Wow, what a noise that made! And 12ft of rock edge had to be reset, but I didn't lose any plants. [g] I wish we had sidewalks....See MoreTransplanting a large maple - What am I getting myself into?
Comments (27)It looks good. I think you are correct in expecting it to leaf out/flower in a few days. I can't see it clearly, but is there any padding on the strapping around the trunk? It looks to be putting a fair bit of pressure on the trunk - if the strapping is an inch wide or more, then it's probably OK. I would loosen the strapping as soon as the tree is sufficiently upright - the more it can move in the wind, the stronger it will get. If you could mulch out to the drip-line, it might be a good idea - there have been studies showing that trees mulched out to 20' did better than trees mulched out to 10', which did better than trees out to 5' or less. It looks like you have only about 2' of mulch out from the trunk, although I know judging distances from a photo can be tricky. The mulch mantra is; as widely as possible, no deeper than 4" and no mulch in the inch or 2 next to the trunk....See MoreTransplants all dead...
Comments (26)Ezzirah, I often recommend the jar soil test to new gardeners, using an article from Fine Gardening magazine that described it and soil improvement really well. We have highly variable soil here, so I did a jar soil test about every 20 yards to figure out what sort of soil we had in each location before I began doing soil improvement and planting. Then I tried to amend the individual areas based on what I learned from the jar soil test. You can have really hard compacted sand and if it is dry, it will seem like it is clay until you get it wet and break it up. As long as it remains compacted, water will roll right across the surface of it or will bead up on it like water beads on a tabletop. We have one big pocket of sandy-silty soil that cuts across the property from south to north. Well, it isn't that big compared to the size of the property. At its widest point it might be 40 feet wide, and it runs about 130' long, but the part of it that runs inside the west garden fence is only about 8' wide. Everything I planted in the sandy area struggled in the summer until I'd been amending it for 6 or 8 years. I just couldn't put in more organic matter than the heat could decompose in a year. It still is not as good as the well-amended clay because it still drains too quickly, but it is a lot better than it used to be. Four o'clocks grow in the improved sand like mad so I've let them spread and naturalize themselves all around that sandy area outside the garden fence. Inside the garden fence I grow rhubarb, herbs, some flowers, beans and early tomatoes in various parts of the sandy western edge of the fenced veggie garden. I used to grow great sweet potatoes there, but the area has become too shady from the nearby pecan tree for them to grow there any longer. The rest of our sandy-silty soil is mostly in the woods and the creek bed, so I mostly garden in clay. As much as I dislike clay, it is very rich and fertile. All you have to do is add organic matter to improve both its ability to drain and also to hold moisture properly, and it is great soil. With sandy soil, it is lower in fertility so you're not only having to add organic matter to help it hold water but you also have to fix its fertility issues. My friends here who garden in sandy soil have a lot of trouble with watering in summer because the water just runs down through the sand. Some of them also have root knot nematode issues in their sand. I've never had RKNs here, although of course they could pop up in the sandy area at any time. I'm just lucky that they haven't. In a good year when the grass is growing, we mow once or twice a week, catch all the grass clippings in the mower's grasscatcher and add grass clippings, as mulch, to the garden beds every week all spring, summer and fall. Every bed won't get clippings every week because there's not enough grass clippings to cover the entire garden every week. We often overseed the lawn grass with winter rye grass and that enables me to mow in the winter and add more grass clippings on top of the beds all winter long. It doesn't matter how much I add---the soil always needs more, more, more. Larry, Silt has been the hardest thing for me to learn to recognize. Our really silty area sits at the downhill side of my garden and prickly pear cactus love growing in it, but that makes some sense because the garden slopes and the silt is at the bottom of the slope. I've long wondered if the area where I garden now and the area where the sandy-silty soils are found on our property used to be a slough or creek bed that filled in because that's what it looks like--a sandy, silty river bed that cuts through otherwise impossible red clay. All the trees that existed on the upland part of our property when we bought it were found in 1 location----in that sandy-silty river of soil. Elsewhere in the upland clay we just had mixed prairie grasses and wildflowers. In the lowlying areas we have the thick woodland and what used to be a spring-fed swamp. The spring quit running during a previous drought year and I still call it the swamp, but it only is swampy after heavy rainfall. The best solution when you cannot find organic matter to bring in is to use cover cropping to grow your own organic matter. I've been working with winter rye, spring clover and summer buckwheat to try to improve the area behind the barn where I'd love to put in a fenced area for more veggies or fruits. It is slow going, though. The clay there is just really, really dense and while the cover crops are improving it, it is a slower process than I thought it would be. It is harder and harder to find organic matter here too. We are lucky to have friends who give us their old spoiled hay, but I doubt they'll have any for next year because I think they'll feed it all to their cattle this winter. I'm going to have to be really diligent about gathering autumn leaves this year. My compost pile currently is about 30' long, 6-8' wide and 4' tall, but by the time all that stuff breaks down into usable compost, it won't cover 10% of my garden's raised beds. By the time it decomposes, the volume of it is reduced to about 1-3% of what I started with. That sort of drives me crazy. Building good soil takes a really long time. We've been here 14 years and I'm just beginning to feel like the soil in some places is getting to be "good enough". In other places, it is nowhere near good enough and I don't know if it ever will be, but I keep plugging away. Dawn...See MoreMaple fungus late transplant help
Comments (17):) uhh... gardengal48, I may have pruned too hard... or too close to the terminal buds. I was going for leaving only one node with buds with bonsai ramification (no trifurcations and only one node after each bifurcation) on each branch so a lot of the branches had to go. We'll see... tropicofcancer, I will definitely do a scratch test! I didn't think about that, thanks! That J root, ahh what a dilemma whether or not to leave it on the tree. This is a picture of the roots when I re-potted it last October. I think I decided to leave it on for now because it looked like the tree didn't have so great of a root system and it could use the extra root to get healthier. https://st.hzcdn.com/simgs/be92d8670bcf47aa_9-0956/home-design.jpg I haven't fertilized yet, wondering if that could help or if it is a risk (watering twice a week for the next couple of weeks at 1/4 tbsp per gallon of water?)....See Moretropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
8 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
8 years agoKev (z7b NY)
8 years agoJesse Clark
8 years agoJesse Clark
6 years agotropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)
6 years agoJesse Clark
6 years agoSteven Schnepp
6 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
6 years agoSteven Schnepp
6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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tropicofcancer (6b SW-PA)