Athome: that picture showing 2.5" is for a single door model. It states that 'other models may require more'. I'm hoping you realize that with a single door, the hinge will be on the side away from the wall, unless you provide the additional space to the wall side. The location of the hinge pivot point and the thickness of the door will determine how much if any space is needed to the side in order to open the drawers. I've looked at a lot of fridges (I have a wall to the left as well) and some only need 90* while most need more to get the drawers fully open or removed completely. Don't forget any clearance issues on the right side between the door and the countertop. Some people forget this and are dismayed when they punch a dent into the door from the corner of the countertop.

Instead of moving the window, why not add another? That's what I did for Plan D, along with a few other tweaks. It's a blend of your Plan A and my Plan A, and a little bit of your Plan B. As always, aisle measurements are counter to counter, counter to appliance front or counter to wall. Starting at the pantry door: "a" is an 18" deep cabinet ala the inspiration pic I posted above [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/shannon-cabinetry-traditional-kitchen-toronto-phvw-vp~73826) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Youngstown General Contractors Shannon Cabinetry with frosted glass or antiqued mirror doors like these: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/mill-valley-classic-cottage-victorian-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~1357985) [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Sausalito Architects & Designers Heydt Designs Next up is a 30" oven installed under the counter. Yes, it's lower than a wall oven but it's higher than an oven in a range and it's one way to gain more counter and that sounded like it was more of a priority for you than oven height. Next to the oven is a 36" range. Not sure if these two appliances can be installed side by side or if you'll need to add a 6" pull-out cab between them. If so, that would be a great place to store spices. Between the range and the must-stay wall are two 26" wide drawer cabs. I evenly divided the space. You should determine cab widths based on your needs. The fridge is on the other side of the must-stay wall. "b" is closed or open storage ala this inspiration pic I posted above: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/victorian-resurrection-victorian-dining-room-portland-phvw-vp~3003779) [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Portland Interior Designers & Decorators Vicki Simon Interior Design The island is 8' long and shifted slightly towards the window wall. There aren't any cabs opening into this aisle so a 39" aisle should be fine. The MW drawer is still across from the fridge. Not sure how you use your MW but if it's to reheat left-overs and such, this placement makes sense. I think there's enough room to have fridge doors and MW drawer open without hitting each other but if that's not the case and it's a concern, put the MW drawer in the range wall run next to the must-stay wall. I show an apron front sink in a 30" sink cab, gaining you a bit more cab and counter in the island. DW is where I showed it in my Plan A. Since the range has shifted towards the pantry (and back to being centered on the can light), these two appliances are no longer across from each other. You could still switch sink and DW placement but that will leave you with only 16.5" of counter next to the sink. I shifted the island 2" towards the DR, easing the pinch point you were concerned about by the fridge. This obviously reduces the aisle between island and DR wall but since you plan on enlarging the DR opening, this won't be an issue, IMO. Plus there are only 3 seats at the island, not 4, to avoid pinch points between island and DR wall. "d" is a 15" deep open shelving cabinet for cookbooks or display items like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/jordan-peterson-allied-member-asid-traditional-kitchen-omaha-phvw-vp~351956) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Omaha Architects & Designers jordan peterson interior design You could also angle the corner of the island to give you more room between island and back door. Additionally, you could probably increase the counter overhang an inch or two more, or even three inches, depending on how wide the new DR opening will be. The island is all one level, btw. Lastly, "c" is your Command Central housed in a hutch-style cabinet like this: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/inverness-lakeside-cottage-traditional-dining-room-grand-rapids-phvw-vp~444626) [Traditional Dining Room[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-dining-room-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_722~s_2107) by Grand Rapids Architects & Designers Visbeen Architects It will provide a nice view from the DR.

The older Gaggenau ovens are 27" wide. The current ones are 30". both are standard sizes. Mine is from the first group of 30" and the interior front to back will hold a 16" pizza pan, but barely. I don't know if the current model has the same conformation. They also make a classic 36" oven, though they have recently updated it. Gaggenau is one of the most accurate ovens on the market, though you pay for it. People here are happy with the side opening Bosch, which has a more accessible price. Bosch used to have the biggest cavity, but I don't know if that's also true for the side opening one. Definitely worth checking out. I'll say again, GE's ovens have a poor reputation. Uneven heating and other control issues. Look at the AR and BS. Before you get too set on any kind of flexible surface induction cooktop, do read the manuals really really thoroughly. There are limits to the "anywhere you want", the amount of power delivered, etc. It's very different technology to the standard inductor rings--I didn't realize that's what you were talking about before--and I would definitely not go with Viking on that. Not without a lot of other guinea pigs reporting that it's great and that the customer service is also great if something fails. If you think you really want it, AEG (I think it's now part of Electrolux) and Siemans (BSH=Bosch, Thermador and Gaggenau here) are the companies that have been in it longest. I don't think AEG is offered in the USA. That leaves Thermador and Gaggenau to look at. You might like the new Gaggenau 36" which has two "freedom" panels on the sides and a big multiple ring in the center. I think you could do three of your big pots across--do read the manual to be sure, but I think you can power share the front and back zones with one big pot in the middle of a freedom, which I think is four oblong inductors. But, again, you pay for it. Modern dishwashers are very different from your old Kenmore. They're designed for energy and water savings first, and cleaning second, ease of use third and drying a lag behind. Most people love Miele--mid-range on up. It's not as big, but genuinely loved. Most DWs are pretty good. Find one that fits your loads, and it'll probably be okay. Most of the work now, is done by enzymes in the detergent, rather than heat or power, and most machines require rinse aid (surfactant to loosen the water) for drying. Not spot prevention, but to actually get your dishes dry.

Nice, cozy space you have. Price will probably determine if you reupholster/slipcover sofa or buy a new one (usually cheaper). Replace the leather chairs with smaller club chairs; current ones seem too big for the space. Upgrade your lighting with table lamps. You could swap out the metal floor lamp with a brass reading lamp, like this (also note size of chairs): Replace rug with something more colorful such as a Persian or kilim, which can be a guide for your sofa upgrade.