Cost of Kitchen ReDo - Contractor Vs Cabinets
Comments (16)
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8 years agoRelated Discussions
Caesarstone Countertop MISTAKE - how much to ask back vs. re-do
Comments (10)The fabricator may not "want" to re-cut that piece, but that is what needs to happen. live_wire_oak is correct that some gap is acceptable, but not 1/2". For $4000, you should expect a job that meets at least minimum industry standards. From the Marble Institute of America guidelines: 11.6 Joints at Materials Transition. Visible joints be-tween the stone units and other materials (e.g., cabinetry, gypsum wall board) shall be 1/8â nominal, with a tolerance of ñ1/16â (ñ1.5 mm), and filled with a low modulus elastomeric material....Concealed joints between the stone and other construction materials (e.g., stone-to-wall joint underneath the backsplash) shall be sized to ensure a minimum of 1/8â (3 mm) of cover....See MoreKitchen showroom vs contractor installing cabinets
Comments (1)I don't know what skilled labour costs in NY, but our kitchen cabinet install by a custom cabinet maker took 3 weeks and there were 2 or 3 people here full time... They did a beautiful job and attended to every detail (every cabinet and baseboard perfectly scribed to floor and wall). I guess it all depends on what you get for your $6500....See MoreCost Difference? Shaker Style Cabinet vs Recess Panel Square
Comments (5)Inset describes the door type. According to the attached article door style refers to the type of panel, they refer to 4 basic types including recessed which can be called Shaker among other things. What may impact the price is the method of construction - how the frame is joined and the material in the recessed panel and how it is finished. My understanding is that you want the recessed panel to be finished before assembly (at least partially) so if there is movement in the frame what gets exposed will be finished. I am under the impression that it is better if the recessed panel is either MDF for a painted finish or veneer over plywood\MDF for a stained finish (this will also provide a more uniform appearance on the panel) as this will usually mean the door will contract or expand less in its' frame than if the centre panel is made of solid wood. If doing a painted finish you could go to a solid MDF door which can be routered out to look like a recessed panel but be one solid piece that is not subject to the natural movement of wood (MDF is more dimensionally stable than solid wood). My Mom went with a thermofoil finish over a solid MDF door - one of the characteristics of an MDF solid door is rounded interior corners - the routered groove in this particular company's product helps visually disguise it but if you look closely you can see the corners are all rounded. Here is a link that might be useful: door style breakdown...See MoreKitchen - Paint vs Gel Stain vs Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations
Comments (16)I had a horrible experience with a General Finish paint several years ago. Their customer service was rude, told me their product was wonderful, and it was my own fault. And then took the product off the market within a year. Stuff I've used of theirs that wasn't utter garbage wasn't fantastic. So, I'm skeptical when anyone raves about their gel stain. The Rustoleum includes all the products you need for every technique, even if you don't need them for the look you're going for. That makes them really expensive if you don't need all the products. I have used BM Advance paint on cabinets and furniture (and doors and trim) and been very happy at a fraction of what the Rustoleum stuff costs. The caveat though is that it takes a LONG time for the paint to cure fully. Like, several weeks. It'll be dry to the touch in a few hours, but it can scratch off if you bump it before it's fully cured....See MoreNina Balan
8 years agomy designer has recommended contractors but I don't need to use them, I sourced someone from a recommendation. I am in the North East..Im not sure how much cabinetry. I just measured 15 feet on one side, and the sink is also on that side... and an island.. This is a better visual.. I will shop a bit more I think. These are not the cabinets just placement.
nicole___
8 years agoNina Balan
8 years agomy fridge is on the back wall , because the space is literally open on 3 sides,, we are burying the fridge and pantry into the wall which will bump into the dining area, the only way to accommodate an island. However there is minimal space on the inside of island 36.5 and 40 from the ends.. Contractors say its too tight but I don't have any other options. Im telling you , Im ready to leave my kitchen well alone this is too much work-
cpartist
8 years agoLineal feet does not mean the width of your kitchen. It means adding up all the cabinet lengths which would be all the areas in red. And if your island is 2 cabinets deep, that would be double.
Nina Balan thanked cpartistBuehl
8 years agoBuehl
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoSo, it's nice to see your contractor noticed one of the issues! Aisles! Have you had a chance to read the Kitchen Design FAQ threads? They discuss good kitchen design principles, guidelines, etc. I'll link to them below.
First I better ask, are you a function first or form (looks) first? Neither answer is right/wrong - it's what's right for you. Most of us here are function-first. It is easy to make a functional kitchen look nice; it's almost impossible to make a nice-looking by dysfunctional kitchen work well w/o tearing it out and starting over.
If looks are more important to you than function, then read the rest just so you know the functional issues - that way there will be no surprises when you start to work in it after it's done. You will be making decisions with the knowledge of the consequences of your choices - both good and bad.
So what other red flags do I see?
Refrigerator and Island relative locations...Your island is what we call a "barrier island". It's a barrier b/w the refrigerator & Prep Zone and b/w the refrigerator & Cooking Zone/range. You will be running around that island so much that it will most likely get old fast!
DW in the middle of the Prep Zone...Ideally, you want separation of your Prep and Cleanup Zones and you don't want a DW in the middle of the Prep Zone.
Aisle widths...the minimum recommended aisle width for a one-person kitchen is 42" - that's only one person ever - no help with cooking, prepping, cleaning up and not allowing someone to cleanup or unload the DW while you're prepping. For two or more people, the minimum is 48".
Then there's the traffic aisles behind the seats.
Seating overhang...I don't know if this is an issue since there are no measurements. Aim for the minimum recommendation of 15" of clear knee/leg overhang. If you're a tall family, 18" is better.
Here's a Zone Map and traffic b/w the refrigerator and Prep & Cooking Zones to illustrate:
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
To clarify about the Prep Zone...The only source of water in your Kitchen is the cleanup sink, so that means your Prep Zone is b/w the sink and the range. Water is a key component of the Prep Zone. For a functional Prep Zone, you need a water source and sufficient workspace (the bare minimum is 36" with 42" or more much, much better.
If you want the island to be your primary Prep Zone, then you need to add a water source (e.g., a prep sink). Given the length of your sink wall, you don't need to. With a bit of re-configuration, you can fix some of the issues with the current space b/w the sink and range (DW in the way and not enough workspace) to make it a nice Prep Zone.
- Move the DW to the left of the sink
- Move the trash pullout to the right of the sink - for two bins, it needs to be 18" wide (one recycle bin & one trash bin).
- Move the range to the right far enough to give you 42" of counterspace b/w the sink and range.
This does not solve the barrier island issue, it just fixes the Prep Zone.
To fix all the issues, I would probably:
- Move the refrigerator to the upper right
- Then, put in an 18" cabinet next to it
- Next, the range
- Next, a 24" wide base cabinet
- Next, an 18" trash pullout
- Next, a 30" single-bowl sink (size depends on the actual length of your wall)
- Then, DW to the left of the sink
- Finally, a 36" corner susan or similar (not a blind corner cabinet, they're pretty useless!)
- If there's extra room, then put it b/w the DW and corner cabinet.
If you want water in the island so you can use it as your primary Prep Zone, put it on the refrigerator end.
That's all I have time for now, but it's probably a lot to digest anyway!
Here are the links I promised:
Kitchen Design FAQ Threads:
FAQ -- Kitchen work zones, what are they?
FAQ -- Aisle widths, walkways, seating overhangs, work and landing space, and others
FAQ -- How do I plan for storage? Types of Storage? What to Store Where?
Looking for layout help? Memorize this first.
Nina Balan thanked Buehl
PROMills Carpentry
8 years agobeachem
8 years agoNina Balan
8 years agoBuehl
8 years ago
nicole___