Kitchen - Paint vs Gel Stain vs Rustoleum Cabinet Transformations
gatos_locos
11 years ago
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gatos_locos
11 years agogatos_locos
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Gel stain vs. Polyshades
Comments (50)I have read and re-read this post a thousand times. And just like Sherry74, I have spent well over $100 dollars on several stains, GF, Minwax Polyshades, Old Masters, Minwax Express, and even Varathane Stain+Poly. I have been practicing on a scrap cabinet sectioned off into small squares by blue tape, and for the past two months my fingers have been permanently stained brown. My goal has never been dark cabinets, but rather a rich medium brown (think warm walnut) that still allows the wood to show through. I have tried everything with the gel stain, quick wipe on - wipe off, longer wait time followed by wipe off, no wipe off, all applied in every way conceivable; sock, foam brush, and a good quality paint brush. Everything ended up looking about like Sherry74's cabinets. Then I tried building up layers of Polyshades, that went on so translucently that by the time I got to the color I wanted, there was sticky residue in every corner. However, enough experimenting to rival a woodshop, I think I have finally found the magic combination. * First a good cleaning with a green scrubbing pad and cleaner. * Then a very light sanding just to scuff the surface. * Next two lightly brushed on coats of brown paint mixed 1 part paint to 4 parts Valspar Clear Mixing Glaze. This tones down the grain and seals the dryest parts while staying translucent. (I used Valspar paint in Pumpernickel.) There is a great blog out there by Jenny on her blog Anything Pretty (linked at the bottom?) * Then one lightly brushed on coat of a 1:2mix of GF Walnut gel stain and Polyshades in Honey Satin. * Finally, when completely dry, one to two coats of GF Wipeon Clear Gel Coat. This method allowed all the working time of regular stain, without all the sanding. I am ready to start in my master bathroom. I will post pictures when I get done....See MoreStaining vs Painting Kitchen Cabinets
Comments (16)I was going to paint mine also but decided I didn't want to deal with the paint chipping. So I started practicing in my master bath. I'm using Minwax Gel stain in mahogany. It took me a while to get the hang of it. First I cover the whole door using a sponge brush. The can says wait 3 minutes. Usually by the time you covered a few doors it's time to go back to the first. Then I use a rag and wipe it all off. It leaves a thin coat on it. ( alot darker than regular oak). If you like it like it is then fine, if not wait at least a day to be sure. Give it a light sanding (very light) and then do the process again. This will darken it even more. Then give it a coat of polyurethane. Mine went from ugly builders oak to rich mohagany. I love it. Sorry no pictures yet. I highly recommend that you practice before you start on the kitchen. About the crevices, you can wipe it off (carefully) or leave it and it looks like the glaze on white cabinets. It actually looks nice IMO....See MoreStaining kitchen and bath cabinets - gel or real stain?
Comments (4)Thanks - so if you sand unevenly even slightly will the amount that soaks in (or not soaks in) cause uneven staining? Seems like it would, so then the difference in prep work would be just roughing up the surface for gel and sanding down to bare wood for stain perhaps? These are the cabinets we're thinking about doing - same ones in all bathrooms too - so we would start on one of those first to test it out. Yes that bathroom is hideous - we are just buying this house and will fix it up....See MoreCabinet finish - white stain vs white paint
Comments (16)Imsparkie, your kitchen looks really cool - I hope you keep us posted about your progress. I understand the effect that you are trying to achieve. Having some depth and variation is a really great idea for adding interest to slab fronts. I'm planning solid oak gray stained slab fronts for my small kitchen, but I was driving myself *nuts* trying to figure out *how*. It was a thread here on GW that pointed me to an excellent option: Rubio Monocoat. It's a Belgian product that is designed for floors so it's more than up for the job for cabinet fronts. From my research, it is a new category of products (there are a couple of other brands of this kind of modern hardwax oil). It has many many benefits over custom stains, hardware store options, etc. What I found is that those products weren't opaque enough for the look that I was trying to achieve. I have applied it myself and it's an *easy* DIY job if you do proper wood prep (use their cleaner) and follow instructions exactly. I have no experience with wood finishing so knew that complicated application methods weren't for me. I loved the samples that I tried. The finish is beautifully matte, yet water beads up nicely and it seems very durable. I recommend that you order samples and try this yourself if you're interested. Plan to take some time getting the right combination if you use two-step process. The wood species makes a *huge* difference. If you want to see grain, oak is by far the best readily available option. Also, how the wood is prepped makes a difference in how the Oil soaks in (sanding, Monocoat Raw Wood cleaner, 'water popping' to raise grain), so ideally you'd be working with a sample cabinet door for your final testing. Some of the Monocoal Oils are coloured (incl a number of whites), but if you want a more opaque finish with stronger colour, you can apply a 'precolor' - I'll be doing that with my gray stained cabinet to achieve an 'almost painted' look that still shows the dimension and depth of the grain. You will probably need the precolor to get the colour strong enough for your look. The cool thing is you can MIX precolors with each other to blend a custom colour. You can also mix the Oils with each other. So the possibilities are endless and you should be able to create the look you want with experimentation. Because there are so many colours of precolors and oils, the combinations are endless and creating large sample boards is a *must*. Natural Oil Finish 2C Part A (no accelerator B) http://www.monocoat.us/Natural-Oil-Finish - recommended to use no accelerator for cabinet fronts for long 'open time', but takes 21 days to cure (instead of 7). Precolor Easy 14 Unique Shades http://www.monocoat.us/Precolor-Easy/ Application Instructions: https://store-adb79.mybigcommerce.com/content/pdf/RM Furniture Data.2.14.pdf pretty impressive resistance testing results: http://www.monocoat.us/Resistance-Testing/ See my thread for endless detail about my quest for an elusive finish look :) . http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0416442910326.html HTH! If you're interested in pursuing this, I have some ideas about how you might achieve lavender/white look with Rubio products based on my test boards. This post was edited by feisty68 on Sat, Jun 21, 14 at 15:44...See MoreUser
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