This is what i found on a website where people sell Just these types of ferns Also called Silver Dollar. It’s a large specie native to Peru. The new growth is oval shaped and displays a pink shaded, later turning to pale green with a metallic sheen and finally to dark green, hence its name. Easy to grow prefers bright place but can grow in the shaded position with high humidity. Our maidenhair fern collection including many species and varieties of adiantum, doryopteris and hermionitis (the last two families are closed to adiantum, which is real maidenhair fern). In general this fern is somewhat a sensitive plant so not recommend for a novice; requires well-drained, a bit high pH and airy soil. Also need stable humid environment at high level (at least 50-60%) with air movement. From this they are ideal for greenhouse and shaded garden position. However, there're some species grow well in terrarium too. The most important tips is that you must bury their rhizomes about 1-1.5 inches below the soil EXCEPT the adiantum capilus-veneris, which prefer to stretch their rhizomes on soil surface and can be rotten easily if you bury them. In this case I suggest you use U-shape wire to attach them with the ground. Light and temperature are also what we should concern for this plant Adiantum tenerum is only a specie requires high light level (here we grow them under 60% sunshaded netting) to promote their growth and make the new growth colorful.Others prefer shaded position. The best range of temperature is around 22-28 c degrees. However, some specie such as a. raddianum, a. reniforme and a. macrophyllum, since they endemic to sub-tropical climate, need a bit cool weather to grow well. and this "Silver Dollar Maidenhair Fern" We hope to have these available again throughout the Fall Season! Large dramatic species with pink toned new foliage hardening into rich green arching fronds. Must have high humidity to perform well--loves a large Wardian Case as its home (this is far too large for a small or narrow terrarium); nonetheless, if given a cool bright windowsill, sweet soil and a carefully tended pebble tray, it will also become an impressive specimen given time and humidity as a houseplant. And with sweet soil, always a star in any hobby greenhouse. Always a popular and much sought after dramatic rarer plant! and this was very informative as well The maidenhair ferns are delicate ferns with very small fronds and a lacy appearance. These are considered hardy ferns, rather than tropical ferns, but don't let the description fool you: these can be difficult plants to keep in good health indoors. They are particular as to their conditions, with an especially high requirement for humidity. No matter, though, because they are beautiful and lend a very exuberant look to their rooms. Growing Conditions: Light: Shady. Do not expose to any direct sunlight or even especially bright light. Water: Water freely in summer and keep moist in winter. Place the pot in a tray of pebbles to keep humidity elevated and spray frequently. Temperature: These are best kept above 70ºF. Do not expose to cold drafts or temperatures below 60ºF if possible. Soil: Rich, loose, organic compost. Fertilizer: Feed biweekly with weak liquid fertilizer during growth season Propagation: By spore or division. Larger plants can be divided during repotting. Repotting: Annually or biannually, depending on the pot size and growth rate. They don't mind being a little underpotted, but repot when the roots fill the pot. Divide the plant during repotting to increase your collection. Varieties: There are a number of maidenhair ferns available, all with pretty much the same cultural requirements. The delta maidenhair fern (A. raddianum) is considered one of the easier varieties to grow, but the Venus maidenhair (A. cappillus-veneris) is also popular. The A. hispidulum, or Australian maidenhair, features interesting reddish foliage on young fronds. Grower's Tips: Maidenhair ferns are widely spread throughout the world and grow wild in many temperate countries. To thrive indoors, it is essential to provide enough warmth and moisture to keep the plant active. If temperatures fall too low, or the plant dries out, it will likely go dormant, just as it would in the wild. Many growers have success keeping these plants in a shady corner or under a plant bench in glassed-in solariums or sun rooms. hope that helps some! goodluck and happy growing!

I think that Josh's situation points out a change that has been happening in our society. It used to be that you did everything possible to live as long as possible. That was before some very fancy and effective medicines and medical procedures were developed. The Road to The End has changed. There are many bypasses and detours, but the End will come eventually. Now we see only too well, what living as long as possible is like. I, for one, don't like it. I come from a family that has some sort of longevity gene. Living until the late 90s in age sounds great until you stop to think that a lot of that last decade could be in bed with little or no mind function.

count_d, I purchased my plant from Tony at ExoticPlantsPlus.com the home of Par O Bek Orchids! http://www.exoticplantsplus.com/ thespirals, I keep it growing up by using the metal chain of the hanging basket. By moving some of the leaves to the inside of the chain and letting the plant then rest against it, the plant grows more upwards. Once it gets past the metal chain I have large s hooks which I then use orchid flower spike clips to clip the nep vine to the s hook. You do not need to cut your nep. I do it when it reaches the ceiling which is 3 to 4 feet from the hanging basket. I would not cut it till you have new growth at the bottom of your plant which you say you do. My first time cutting the plant I was about 12" above the soil for my cut. Cutting the plant usually causes more basal shoots to form which will make your plant bushier, as they grow. Also usually a node below the cut will start to grow. Seeing the effects of cutting the plant from the first time, the second time I cut it was much closer to the soil, but I had several new basal points growing which were several inches tall by then. You end up with several new plants to trade away if you try to root your cuttings. Below is a link to rooting nep cuttings. This is the way I do mine and have great success, only have lost 1 cutting. Here is a link that might be useful: Rooting nep cuttings

Hello fegray, I am new to the forum but have been growing citrus in Connecticut (except for a decade spent in Florida) for about 35 years. My oldest tree is a sour orange I planted about 35 years ago when a young boy of 7 or so, and I have a large 4 by 4 foot Calamondin, a two by two Meyer Lemon (that had 25 lemons on it this fall, and still has 16 to go--2 lemons required per pie!), a two by-two Key lime, a 3 by 3 Buddha's Hand citron, a 2.5 foot tall and rather spindly Ponderosa lemon (on dwarfing rootstock), and a couple other smaller citrus, so I have plenty of experience with pruning, repotting, and dealing with insect infestations. I have had scale before, though not for many years. My citrus trees usually end up with spider mites during the winter: all it takes is a mite or two making it in during the move from outside to inside in October, and by Xmas I often have an infestation. The signs are similar to what you describe (sugary "sap", small spider webs, and sticky leaves). If you have mature scale insects of the kind I've encountered here in the northeast, they would likely be quite obvious and will often be clustered on the newer (say last summer's) shoots and should stand out from the green bark as they are typically brown or yellow or reddish brown. The nymphs or little scale crawlers move about, but the adults stay in one place. I am skeptical that Safer will do the trick for you if you have scale or spider mites, but it won't hurt to try, as long as you don't let them go on too long. In a couple weeks, in zone 7, you may even be able to move the plant outside where the rain and humidity will work against the insects. Note: If you have spider mites and your closeup eyesight is not the best, you may not be able to see the actual insects. The particular mites I get are so small that I can only see them when I have full sunlight falling on the leaves and can spot the mites moving around on them or their webs. They are smaller than periods in newsprint, and light reddish brown to yellow in color. The test is to take a white sheet of paper, hold it under the suspected site of infestation, and gently tap and shake the leaves and smaller branches. If you have mites, you'll have a few specs that slowly move on the paper after this. I have never had luck controlling mites with the friendly sprays many posters advocate, but as long as the infestation is not severe they will fade away in numbers once the afflicted plant goes outside. If the infestation is severe, they can weaken the tree to the point of no return, though with a large tree I think this is somewhat unlikely. There are other possible causes for sudden leaf drop as I'm sure you know: a cold draft, the natural dropping of old leaves, and uneven watering; this last is not necessary obvious. With your large tree, you may not be able to get it enough water if it is rootbound: you can water a citrus two or three times a week and still won't keep it happy if it is growing. Thus, if the tree gets too dry during the winter you can quickly kill it or cause a large section to die back. I make an effort to water my trees thoroughly up to twice a week in the winter if they are growing, flowering, and fruiting (and they often do all of this for months on end). By thorough, I mean until water comes out of the bottom of the drain holes. Having repotted and root trimmed a few times over the years, I can tell you that if a citrus plant is badly potbound and it goes into a growth phase you may need to water it every other day. I had to do this a few years ago. In other words, you may think you are watering enough, and you may even have water coming out the drain holes, but there may be too little soil to hold the water inside the pot long enough for the plant to drink it in. Of course, too much water can also cause leaf drop, so please check to see if your citrus is potbound. The quick test is to try to lift the rootball out of the pot. You may need help to do this! If it comes out and all you can really see is roots . . . well, that is a pretty good sign it needs to be root-trimmed and backfilled with new soil, or repotted, or both. Regarding your long-standing lack of flowers and fruit: I would say that this is odd. My 35 year old sour orange flowers and fruits profusely, and has done so since it was about 15 years old, and before then it did so to a lesser extent. I have kept it in a 22 inch plastic pot for the last 5 or 6 years and take it out and root prune it ever three or four. I think it is due for another pruning this spring. Including the container, it is about 6 1/2 feet tall: I prune it back a foot or two over the course of the summer (if it sends out suckers I tend to cut them before they get too unruly), and then I inevitably end up pruning it once more in October before it comes in. I regularly leave my citrus outside until the night temperatures drop into the low forties or upper thirties (I live in central Connecticut, and last fall I think the last citrus came inside on the 14th of October). In my experience, the only think healthy citrus trees need to induce flowering in the winter is a good sunny window: I've had them flower with west light, south light, and even west light in an attached garage that got down to 50 degrees at night where the light came in through the little garage windows. My advice is that as long as the tree is healthy you should try giving it a good pruning a week or ten days after you move it outside. Say a good 6 inches to a foot all the way around. Good luck! Don