The short answer - No The long answer....here's what I just posted on another thread about OTR MWs...in particular, item 3! They're too high for safe use unless you're well over 6' tall (I'd say closer to 6'6" or more) - you're removing hot food/fluids at a height that if it spills, it will spill on your face, arms, chest, etc. (Plus, you can't see inside to check the food b/c it's too high) They're located such that: If someone wants to use the MW while someone else is cooking, the cook must get out of the way at least 2x (once for putting the food in and again to take it out; if you need to stir or check the food, the cook needs to get out of the way a third or more times) If you have any food cooking on the range, you will be using the MW over the intense heat as well as things like splattering grease or clouds of steam from boiling liquids - all of it bathing your arms, hands, and face. Oh, and beware loose clothing if you use flame to cook - more than one person here has described a sweater or shirt catching fire when reaching up into an OTR MW with a gas range. They're lousy hoods - loud and inefficient. They don't cover the front burners so they're pretty useless for any cooking on the front burners. Even for the back burners, they don't work well. They're generally the most expensive MW out there! Post your layout - let the gurus here see what they can come up with - you may be pleasantly surprised at the results!

I am not clear on your reasoning for needing a hood at such a height, which will compromise its ability to exhaust - you are giving the smoke and grease a lot of opportunity to float elsewhere when the hood is installed so high. You said you want it high "so it will not be visible in elevation view from the dining room". Why is it a bad thing for it to be visible? It's a kitchen--kitchens tend to be off the dining room. And kitchens have hoods. Will your kitchen's cabinets be visible from the dining room? You could always hang the hood at the correct height, but have it covered in cabinetry if you don't want to see stainless steel. Also keep in mind that when the hood is installed very high, the eye perceives the mis-proportion and it will look "off". So your zeal to hide your hood from view from the dining room could end up in a worse look. There are some gorgeous hoods out there (check out Modern-Aire for example). Take the additional money you would have to spend on cfms and hood size to account for the unusual height, and instead spend it on a beautiful hood, hung at the appropriate height of 30"-34" from top of cooktop. Or, cover the hood in cabinetry.

1. I don't own either, so I can't comment on more than noted here. A 1200 CFM rating (neither will achieve this flow rate) should be sufficient, depending on many factors you can read about reviewing hood related threads on this forum. 2. Deeper (front-to-back) is always better for plume capture, so long as the hood is mounted high enough that it doesn't block one's view when cooking. 3. MUA in many municipalities is required by code. The MUA is intended to keep house pressure from falling too much and back-drafting combustion appliances, if present. Else, there may be a carbon monoxide hazard. MUA also is necessary for the hood system blower to reach a desirable fraction, say 2/3, of its rated (zero static pressure) flow rate.

Things you might have noticed in your reading: Hood should overlap the cooking area by a few inches Airflow should be of the order of 90 CFM per sq. ft. of hood entry aperture for residential style hoods Calculated air flow requirement from above should be 2/3 of the blower's (zero static pressure) CFM rating, more or less depending on myriad factors Duct size should keep max power flow velocity in the 1000 to 2000 ft/min range Noise can be reduced by one or more of these mechanisms: Using a remote blower with a long duct in-between; not applicable to going directly out the wall Using a remote blower with a silencer in-between; not applicable to going directly out the wall Using a more powerful than needed proximate outside wall or in-hood blower and running on part power Using a larger blade external blower with appropriate motor and gearing for the required CFM (applicable to up-blast commercial roof blowers) Hood performance and efficiency improve with the degree to which they emulate commercial hoods, given the limitations of residential kitchen architectures. This means having volume under the baffles, using true double reversing baffles, having low resistance, low turbulence air flow above baffle area to the ducting. I am not familiar with Hauslane, and in any case do not try to rate hoods I haven't used, so I'm limited to Wolf, and in particular to their Pro Island hoods. No air leaves the kitchen via the hood that doesn't get supplied to the kitchen. The supply is called make-up air. Read MUA threads here. For best hood performance at the levels that the hood air flow should be able to reach, deliberate MUA is needed, not house leakage. Whether this results in an expensive complex system or a modest cost simple system will depend on factors that will be obvious from reading MUA threads.