Ok, that was weird getting logged in. I forgot about some of the other threads mentioning the lower case. Sheesh... The Security Light on means there is a problem wih your theft deterrent system. Your regular mechanic is wrong about one thing. You don't have to go to a dealer to have this serviced. An independent shop that has stepped up to the plate, and purchased the correct tools and information to deal with this system can do the work just fine. I would be one such shop/technician that is equipped, trained and perfectly comfortable servicing your vehicle for this issue. As far as the system not working correctly and caring about it go, I suspect the system has recognized a failure and has shut itself down which allows you to use the car for now. But there is likely a demon lurking, and if you lose battery power for some reason you could end up with a no-start and require being towed to a shop set up to service your car. The reason this could happen is as long as a certain trouble code is in the computers memory, it goes into a fail safe mode. I suspect this fail safe trouble code is currently set, as well as the system failure code. But if you lose your "keep alive memory" in the theft deterrent, then you will lose the failsafe code, and only the system problem will remain, hence potentially the same condition as an attempted theft, and therefore a no-start. Either head to the dealer, or find a top gun independent to have this system on your car properlly repaired.

Well, the dealer fixed under warranty. On direct questioning the service desk man said "yes" the truck problem is a known problem, but"no" there is no general recall out. I guess that's because the problem isn't life threating. The job took longer than I expected, it was on the lift for over two hours. I was in the waiting room, but I could see from there when they brought the truck into the shop. On the work order I see to that they also turned the rear drums, may have said "polished". They then gave it an extensive test drive, about 6 miles worth. So, people with a 2005 Colorado, keep ears and eyes open for any parking brake noise and lock-up, especially on first backing after a parking for more than a couple of hours. I'll look at the Consumer Reports experience on the 2005 Colorado, it may show brakes as a problem area. One nice change, I looked at an Impala on the floor and reading the sticker I see Stainless Steel exhaust standard. I had SS exhaust on a 1990 Mitsubishi and after 15 years it was still factory original. For those of us who keep a car that long, SS exhaust is worth at least $1,000 in exaust work in 15 years, 150,000 miles.

Yes my 2001 Montero Locked Up out of the blue while idling. No oil light whatsoever. I just notice it suddenly lost power as I was about to park it. Then engine died in a way like it locked. Tried cheater bar to turn engine no luck. Recently though I charged the battery full and it budge a bit so I turned again with a cheater turning opposite direction and it did. It turn about half way. There is hope the engine can be fix while on the vehicle. Maybe bad camshaft or broken valve spring which bent the vavle. Worn rod earing would have thrown oil light or any bearing that is worn. I may add too that I recently rebuilt the head myself so there is a posibilty I may have Installed the valve train rod backwards which would cause the oil hole not to line up causing oil starvation on the cam shaft, I did notice loud valve noise when starting the engine that diminish once it start but gets loud when raising rpm. I also want to mention it also had broke valve spring on piston 1 but I fixed it amd ran like a champ before it locked up in me.

Cathrugg (& all!)- I just found out about "Clay-barring" cars this summer, when I was in a Cadillac forum for a while. GREAT info. there about all kinds of car stuff! Also...on Youtube, there's a few good videos on the subject. There's some where a guy in Europe is detailing a $1.5 mil. Bugatti Veyron...WOW! Faron Others get more involved with Porter-Cable 7424 buffers, and polishing bonnets. I may have to get one of those P-C buffers!! Another good Youtube vid. shows a guy with a 2-light stand doing a door on his black Escalade. I thought it looked great b4 he started, but when he takes ya thru it....WOW! >>> With the buffer, it's so simple!!! The Clay-bar stuff itself is SOOO simple. It's like rubbing a Play-doh chunk on your car! * The kit I got was ~ $23 retail thru ACE. * It's a Mother's product, with 2 clay-bars, & a spray-bottle of detailing solution. * Just spray the detailing solution on a section of car, flatten-out your soap-bar sized claybar, and gently rub over the paint! Use the pressure you would for taking a shower. Random motions are fine. * When you've done an area, wipe/buff off. You'll be amazed at how smooth the paint is!! * Re-mold/flatten the claybar, and spray another section, and repeat. * It gets kind of addicting! Faron Here is a link that might be useful: Mother's clay-bar video...