Thanks for your thoughts. Putting the stained glass behind the existing clear glass isn't an option. Our transom has two panes of glass already- one in the front, which is what would be removed and replaced with the stained glass. It's secured/puttied from the outside, not the inside. The second is I'd guess about 8" behind that one, inside the house. It also needs to be replaced. I've asked our local stained glass shop, and they said that using clear silicone caulk would be just fine for installing it. Anyone ever tried that? Kristen

Hello iris21, Thank you for your compliment! If I can paint on glass or anything else for that matter, YOU can! My husband and I bought an old schoolhouse and turned it into our home. We had coatrooms in each classroom and in one room we set our counter, stove and fridge back into the coatroom, and above that work area we were installing a wall up to the 11' high ceiling. He set the window into the wall above my work area. (I found this window in someones garbage it is 6' wide and about 24" in height, I placed a florescent light behind it and we use it for a night light in the kitchen at night or just turn it on when company comes for a wonderful effect. (I have other pics of our home if you wish to see them) We all love renovations! The Sea Trout pic is coming up in a local auction in my town on Sept 4 & 5. I taught myself how to do the gallery glass painting and love a good challange. Nothing less! You should invest in a few bottles of the paint and give it a try! This is only one of the many, many crafts and ideas that I have, and love to share! Thanks for asking! Deborah

I think you may be misundersstanding what mulling means. Mulling means "to attach". As an example, when we take 2 identical windows, there is a design in the frame like an accessory groove that allows us to attach the 2 windows together with a piece of vinyl and thus eliminate a wood mullion in the middle, thus the word "mull". What I am understanding is you have is a piece of glass with no frame that you want to use with a door. If that's the case, then I would do a seperate cut-out above the door opening, frame it out, flash it and then install the glass. It's critical that this be done properly so that there's no chance of water penetrating. Again, I recommend you not try to do this yourself unless you have some carpentry experience. Especially if it's going to involve cutting into the walls.

Are you asking about the process of how they were designed? I was really most interested in the physical installation, and your pictures made perfect sense. These are inoperable windows, right? So they're more simple than, say, double hung windows, which include mechanisms for opening /closing. You were in complete control of what size windows you installed, right? I assume they're just a standard size? On top of the glass my handyman installed wood pieces to "frame" around the glass and make it look like it's part of the window frame. This "frame" then covered over the second lip (yellow arrow). I'm not sure it the glass was epoxied or siliconed in, but I do know the wood was nailed into the side frames so none of the glass window was compromised. So you could remove the wood /remove the stained glass ... say, if you wanted to move the decorative glass to a different location, or if your exterior window were broken? One concern I have ... and maybe it's dumb. One of my fellow teachers got into BIG TROUBLE over a window a few years ago: His cheap plastic blinds were broken, and his window faces the hot-hot west. His room was roasting and his afternoon students were complaining about the glare, so -- with no help in sight from maintenance -- he took several huge pieces of thick off-the-roll bulletin board paper, and he blocked off the window, sealing it with tape on all four sides. Unfortunately, he chose black paper. A few days later his class heard a boom ... gunshot? fireworks? car backfiring? No. It was his window breaking. He had inadvertently created a greenhouse (the windows are deep set ... you can sit in them) ... and the heat built up to the point that one of his windows broke. He was in BIG TROUBLE for breaking the window and for blocking off his class' emergency exit. So, my concern ... by placing glass-over-glass, you couldn't be setting yourself up for the same situation, could you? I think no. I think the stained glass wouldn't be caulked in /it wouldn't be tight /the wood would allow for expansion or ventilation. Did this topic ever come up with either the artist who made the glass or the handiman who installed it? I'd hate to think that such a lovely (and I'm sure expensive) item could break. In this case, I wouldn't think the exterior window could break ... not from heat. He mostly designed the gingko leaf kitchen window and I made some small changes in terms of scale and placement of the center gingko leaf. That is my favorite! I've visited two stained glass places ... one focuses mainly on doors, and the door to their shop is absolutely gorgeous: Dark wood door with a full-length glass oval ... in the oval, a pink dogwood tree in full bloom. Coupled with pier glass and overhead transom ... also with dogwoods. Note: I love dogwoods. I just had to stand on the porch a while. It was the most gorgeous piece of stained glass I'd ever seen. I wish I'd asked the price, but I strongly suspect I wouldn't be willing to pay it. Nope, dumb me, I just talked about cabinet insets. Thanks for this information.