I would call my water supplier if you have municipal water. For a few weeks I was detecting an odor coming from my faucets. I called the water company. Two men came out and took various samples. It turned out that I had very high chlorine content. They also took samples from my taps that had filters and those had much lower levels of chlorine. They explained how that happened, it was very interesting to learn what was going on at the water co. If you have private well water you're probably on your own, but if it's public you should probably call them to see if they'll inspect your water and/or test it. If many more people are having this problem and calling in to them it might tell them something.

OK, now I'm a little more confused. HVAC guy used 50 sq. ft for both bathrooms which is pretty close and provided the following equation: The heaters have a capacity each of 1275 Btu's. The restrooms are an estimate of 50 sq ft. The manuel J calculation for second floor room with one side exposure to outside is approximately 18 Btu's a sq ft. 50 Sq. ft. x 18 btu's =900 Btu's per restroom. Using BTUs seems to make sense so I did a little more research on using BTUs as a basis. Here's my assumptions because I don't have the Manual J to refer to: Room square foot = 50' Room cubic feet = 400 (8' ceilings) Based on the fact that the nearest heating ducts are in bedrooms and we keep our doors closed and thermostat turned down to 65, I'm going to assume the starting temperature is 65 and we'd want something like 75 temp in the winter, so temperature rise would be 10 degrees. I'm just making assumptions here, so if they seem out of line, someone let me know. I know some calculators use desired temp minus minimum outside temp to calculate the temp rise, but the calculator I've linked to below seems better suited to our needs, as it appears to take into consideration the starting temp which will be set by the house furnace. At this point, I don't know if the primary purpose of these heaters will be to supplement the 2nd floor heating or if they will only be necessary for warming the bathrooms - if they were baseboard a/c units, I would have left them running at full blast this summer to provide some relief to the rest of the 2nd floor. If we're going to need them to supplement the heat, I'd assume they'd be left on most of the winter and the bathroom temperatures would remain fairly constant. But, if the current furnace and existing ducts are able to maintain the house at about 65 degrees, I see them as primarily being switched on in the mornings to heat the bathrooms before morning showers, then turned off before leaving the house. And in either case, I think it's important to take into consideration how long it will take the units to raise the temperature 10 degrees and will that time be different for a unit that's constantly running to assist with maintaining a 65 degree temperature vs. starting from cold to warm a room from 65 degrees to 75 degrees? The calculator below is giving me 3,675 BTUs and 1,077 Watts/hr, which is closer to the recommendations made by the folks here, but conflicts with Manual J calculations. I don't know that much about a Manual J, but it does appear to take into consideration things like 2nd floor room (I assume that also means room underneath is heated), 1 exterior wall. The online calculator does take into consideration factors like insulation type, but doesn't ask if it's 2nd floor. I don't think either wanted to know that the ceiling above is attic space with poor insulation (at this point, anyway) One other thing I discovered in doing more online research is that the thermostats that were installed on the baseboard heaters are single pole, which means they don't actually turn completely off, so does that mean that they will be generating at least some heat year round? Does that mean that they will continually draw electricity year round too? If so, would either of those factors concern you? Any thoughts? Here is a link that might be useful: The Heat Shop BTU calculator

Once you get used to squeegeeing the space it becomes second nature. I HATE cleaning showers! But I never have to clean mine because I squeegee it every day after the shower. I have a microfiber towel with which I wipe the fixtures down and all the corners of caulking. I think I will try jerzeegirl's technique and squeegee in two steps and see how I like it. I really appreciate my daily efforts so I don't have to clean the thing otherwise. Once a month I might use Method bathroom cleaner on the shower pan (Kohler cast iron) I don't like my beautiful niche. If I could do it over, I would not put one in. It is always collecting water during the shower and I have to remove the items to wipe it down even though it slopes. I don't want to risk mold getting a hold in my bathroom. I would rather have just got a quality teak bench for the shower and placed my supplies there. Currently I have a small narrow drainable basket sitting on my floor for my large shampoo bottle and conditioner. My niche is a piece of expensive property that I find high maintenance. I used fiberglass faced drywall for all my walls in my bathroom remodel. The drywaller was concerned about the expense. Well it was only a few dollars more then the standard sheet. I had heard that paper faced drywall is more at risk for mold because the paper is food for mold. Fiberglass is not. Then I requested, instead of regular drying type joint compound, that they use setting type joint compound. Once dry it can't be rewetted. I don't know if this is reasonable or not but I went that direction. I have a very good fan setup and sufficient gaps under my doors for make up air to enter the room while the fans are running. I have a timer that is dedicated only to the fan and I turn it on so it will run for 30 to 60 minutes during and after my shower. My bathroom does not steam up at all. In the old bathroom I had mold growing at the drywall ceiling above the shower. No bulkhead there either. I don't think I had enough make up air while the fan ran. With my new shower I have a fan vent in the shower and another near the toilet area. They duct together in the attic where they connect to the motor and exhaust out the roof. My shower ceiling is 8' and drywalled with the wall materials mentioned above. I used BM Aura Bath and Spa paint.

I like floating frame of the mirror. I thought more in black direction, but you can do wood-as long as you introduce more organic elements there. A basket? A teak mat? Again, a plant? small tray for corraling stuff you've got? As to where to find it..frankly no idea. But I'd check Wayfair and Signature Hardware for similar. won't be very easy to find. was hunting smth similar myself. did find it..it was round though. But looked and felt great. Had to return anyway-change of lighting plans.. have you tried to google the image? and yes, as Heather says you can decide to go darker in paint, add depth..or go bolder in color and add how they call it..pizzaz? lol it lends itself to quite a few choices, this bathroom, pick the vibe you're after and follow give me a few min I'll try to see whether they might have this mirror I got in rectangular.. wasn't cheap too.