I agree no reason to draw any attention to it. The rooms are already defined seperately by the pocket door. Doing so has no monetary advantage.

Look at a floor vent if you have them to tell the floors thickness. If the boards are 2" wide the are likely 5/16" thick, if 2 1/4" then 3/4" thick. The pictures show the wood itself to be in good condition with the finish worn through where the wood has turned gray from moisture exposure. If the rest of the floor looks similar I would sand it no matter the thickness. There would be enough wear layer for a professional to work with. PS, I'm with Glen on the woods, red oak and maple.

Standard water bourne urethanes which ever brand you use, has the weakest odors, some people still dont like the smell but its not anywhere near as bad as oil based polyurethane. Whether you go oil based or water based, you will probably want to be able to leave the house for a given amount of time so that means if you have a spot in the house you can come and go freely without being on the wood floor that would be best. As far as opening windows...everyday there should be a period you can walk on the floor whether its afternoon or later at night, opening a few windows for 30 minutes to air out the house, if the smell is an issue does wonders.

The NWFA Certified Flooring Inspector (www.nwfa.org) is going to cost several hundreds of dollars ($300 - $700 or more) depending on how far s/he has to travel and how much flooring needs to be inspected and how many (or how few) concerns there are. The inspector will look at "concern" areas from 10 feet away (not 5' - 6' away) in natural light. The areas of concern need to be visible from all 4 directions in a room from 10 feet away (in natural light). Before you engage an inspector, have a FRIEND (who hasn't seen the floor) come in and stand 10 ft away from the area (go ahead and measure 10ft in all 4 directions...and mark the "standing point" with a pile of books or shoes or something). Then have the friend look to see if they are able to see what you see (you are now primed to see it, so it will be difficult for you to be objective at this point...which is why you need a friend to do it). Consider this your 'dry run'. If you friend can see what you see without being told to 'look' for anything specific, then you have a very good chance you will get a redo. I would then sit down at the computer and go straight to the www.nwfa.org website to find your certified inspector in your area. Call them until you find someone who will come out. And just to be clear, I highly recommend you get the "will pay for an inspector" in writing BEFORE you hire the person. In the building industry it is industry standard for the homeowner to pay for the inspection and then require repayment should the inspector find FAULT with the work. If there is no "fault" found, then the homeowner is on the hook for the inspection costs. The other thing that I would like to point out is this: you can ask for money back if you do not want to live with a redo. Yep. You can ask for an estimate as to how much it would cost the dealer to PAY for people to come in and do the sanding (labour + material) and the staining and then new finish (material costs + labour). You can then ask for that amount GIVEN BACK TO YOU so that you can have a discounted floor (money in your pocket) that is ready for the next step in the renovation project. There is something to be said for THOUSANDS of dollars in your pocket after a renovation! It is nothing to sneeze at. It is an option that some of us would look at. I personally would have a long hard look at that number that has 3 zeros behind it. But then again I have no problem with some aesthetic concerns. Not everyone has that type of personality. It isn't a bad thing. It just is.