Here are some photos of the tree and leaf damage. Here is a shot that shows the new growth that died. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/w6qd-Q90yFsEMJFnGolhXw?authkey=Gv1sRgCKq8-Mqyxr-AhgE&feat=directlink Here is one leaf without holes but with some sort of discoloration. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KZ2BbOvjR8Z8FgTHgbTeJA?authkey=Gv1sRgCKq8-Mqyxr-AhgE&feat=directlink Here is a minor holed leaf. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qktsc6QjoXh0yknZPlEYKA?authkey=Gv1sRgCKq8-Mqyxr-AhgE&feat=directlink However, when all together you can see how bad it is. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3t07gyPYzywSYy7CXlqL3g?authkey=Gv1sRgCKq8-Mqyxr-AhgE&feat=directlink Finally, although it's always somewhat looked like this, the bark on the tree is torn off a bit. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wWBpyzQA6xBY5wAoPE9F6Q?authkey=Gv1sRgCKq8-Mqyxr-AhgE&feat=directlink

depending on how long you water ... every other day is way too much ... if i planted in my spring cool moist sand .. and thoroughly soaked them in ... my finger would tell me.. they probably would not need more water until almost july ... thats with 16 years of watering on this sand ... and with mulch ... use your finger.. and do not water.. until its drying down about 2 inches.. of the soil start feeling warm ... when it starts warming.. it will be drying soon ... [test not only the ball ... but also at teh interface between native soil and the ball .. every tree] now i wouldnt cut them off completely.. since you have been babying them ... but how about you stick your finger in there.. or use a hand trowel to 3 inches ... to test ... and then walk away for a week .. and check again ... report then ... and lets see what you find .. it will all be new to me.. since i will have completely forgotten all this by then .. lol ... ken

You can do a hard prune on this.........in fact I'd recommend it :-) September is a good time for it and could even encourage a second flush of blooms. The shrub right now is too leggy and with a few dead bits and a hard prune (down to 8-10") will produce a more compact plant. It should respond well. Just make sure it receives all the water it needs. I'd water until it runs freely out of the drainage holes then wait until the top of the soil is dry to the touch. My comment about maintaining the foliage when moving an established plant or repotting a containerized one is generally for those in good and robust heath to begin with :-) At this point, there is nothing to lose with a hard prune and it could just help. A lot!!

When you cut the flower spike off too early in its formation,the plants tend to just grow another one. Usually Mango growers wait until it has tiny proto fruit on the spike..then,cut the spike and the tree seems satisfied with that and resumes foliage growth.