What I think is, a very large % of issues that people come here looking for solutions for, are related directly to the results of soil choice and either the watering habits necessitated by those choices, or just plain poor watering habits. Because choosing a soil that supports little or no perched water makes it difficult for a grower to water poorly (unless they just don't water) most of the blame for poor watering practices is rightly assigned as the result of the dilemma excessively water-retentive soil present the grower. Do I water thoroughly enough to flush the soil of accumulating salts and risk the soil remaining wet for so long it affects root health/function; or do I water in sips, so the soil is appropriately moist, and suffer the consequences of a build-up of solubles in the soil. For me, it's a no-brainer. I want the soil that allows me to water appropriately any time I want to, without my having to worry about the soil remaining wet for so long it affects root health/function - no worries about root health - no worries about salt build-up ...... what's not to like? It's easy to suggest that inappropriately evaluating the level of soil moisture is the cause of these problems, but when you look realistically at the issue of how difficult it is to maintain adequate aeration in soils that support perched water, we see clearly that the bulk of the blame lies with a soil's measure of water retention, and more specifically with the ht of the perched water table. Even when you use small sips of water to water soils that support significant volumes of perched water, the water tends to accumulate at the bottom of the pot - not to mention the fact that watering in sips very often leaves the root mass dry in some places and too wet in others. IOW, it's extremely difficult to keep soils evenly moist when they support perched water. The norm is a layer of soil at the bottom of the pot that remains soggy until the water is used. It's DURING this period when the soil supports too much water that root death and depression of root function occurs. Neither of these things are desirable and should be avoided whenever possible. One robs energy from the plant because the plant has to expend energy to replace lost rootage, and the other inhibits the plant's ability to function normally. Well-aerated soils that support no or minimal amounts of perched water, do away with these negatives entirely, and offer the grower much greater latitude in the areas of fertilizing and (over)watering. ****************************************************** There are 2 ways to look at growing. Placing grower convenience at the forefront will find you growing much differently than if you place the plant's well-being foremost. Neither way is right or wrong, it's just two different ways of looking at growing. One grower might look at 'what to do with the effluent after watering a big plant in the gritty mix' as an insurmountable obstacle because it requires more effort than using a soil that absorbs and holds onto all that excess water. I don't look at it as an obstacle at all - just something that needs to be dealt with in my pursuit of maximizing plant health. Large plants are set above drainage saucers on small blocks, so after the effluent leaves the pot it cannot find its way back into the soil. All my plants, even the small ones, are watered so 15-20% of the total volume of water applied exits the drain. The effluent goes into the drainage saucer and evaporates - usually within 2-3 days, depending on the weather (humidity levels). If, for some reason, it didn't all evaporate between waterings, I'd make a note of that and remove some of the water with a turkey baster or similar after watering. So far, that hasn't been an issue. Al

Pale yellow- Hibisicus Dark/orangeish yellow- Marigolds! How about adding one for deep yellow? This would be the black-eyed susan...the one that grows upright, not the vining one. It's actually the Maryland State Flower. I've seen the most beautiful beds of them along the roadside traveling to the Eastern Shore. Breathtaking!!!!!

Hi IME there are VERY few vines particularly tropical types that can be kept under 10 x10 feet even then there is great loss of flowers . Twice that dimension is far better. If you have the room they are fantastic. Might suggest Vanda orchids Bromeliads ,epiphytic types for small trellis. far easier to protect in cas e of a freeze and are generally tolerant . Other good choices are Epiphyllum cactus They can be easily controlled Some such as the Dragon fruit not only have fantastic flowers but really great fruit. Two vines that have far less negatives are Queens wreath Petrea volubilis . Blue pea vine .Clitoria ternata. The later does seed like crazy but is easily removed . Have kept a QW for over 20 years and still has no bad habits. Did find that the white form is far less vigorous and much shier at flowering. Most tropical vines are canopy growers ,in other words they grow to the tops of the trees before flowering . So must get very large before flowering. I would certainly suggest planting all VINes in pots either bury them or above ground. When they eat your house they are far less attractive lol gary

I just started the following from seed - I am not sure if it is fragrant. But it grew from seed quite fast and without fuss. Trumpet Creeper Campsis radicans This is a fast growing vine that looks quite tropical but is also very cold hardy (to zone 4). It grows vigorously up to 20 to 40 feet. Its leaves are compound and dense and its stems have aerial roots that can cling to walls, trees and fenceposts. Showy clusters of scarlet, trumpet-shaped blooms that are three to four inches long appear in summer and continue blooming until early autumn. The long tubular orange flowers are great attractions for hummingbirds. These are ideal if you want quick growth to cover an area fast - the fact that it is such a beautiful plant is a bonus! and I just planted these seeds in pots Butterfly Pea Clitoria ternatea Originating from the Indonesian Island of Ternate, this rare member of the pea family is one of the most amazing vines we have grown. These will bloom all year long in frost free zones or inside as an exotic vining houseplant. Technically a tropical perennial flowering plant, they are also easily grown annuals in more northern areas and will quickly bloom from seed in about 6-8 weeks. Flowers are solitary, bright deep blue with light yellow markings that are about 2" long by 1 1/2" wide. So named because they are a favorite food source for butterflies, Butterfly Peas are fast growing, up to 15 feet in a single season, providing quick covers for lattice, trellis and arbors or grow them in hanging baskets. They prefer full sun to light shade, are very drought tolerant and are well-adapted to a variety of soil types I'll let you know how they do I am in DFW