Yellowing of leaves falls into the following categories. Yellowing of a leaf between darl green veins is called chlorosis. Many conditions can be responsible. Poor drainage, planting too deeply, heavy soil with poor aeration, insect or fungus damage in the root zone and lack of moisture all induce chlorosis. After these conditions are eliminated as possible causes, soil testing is in order. Chlorosis can be caused by malnutrition caused by alkalinity of the soil, potassium deficiency, calcium deficiency, iron deficiency or magnesium deficiency. A combination of acidification with sulfur and iron supplements such as chelated iron or iron sulfate will usually treat this problem. Chlorosis can also be caused by nitrogen toxicity (usually caused by nitrate fertilizers) or other conditions that damage the roots such as root rot, severe cutting of the roots, root weevils or root death caused by extreme amounts of fertilizer. Yellowing of leaves sufaces, often with brownish burned areas, occuring on leave that are more exposed to sun, is caused by more sun exposure than the plant is able to tolerate. Yellowing and dropping of leaves is normal toward the end of the second summer on the small-leaved lepidote rhododendrons. These should have dense enough habit that this doesn't matter. Uniformly yellowish-green leaves is often just the need for more nitrogen. This will be more noticeable in the full sun. Some less sun tolerant varieties will always be light green in full sun. Yellowing of leaf edges has been noted in gardens where sandy soil conditions or root competition with other plants caused insufficient soil moisture and nutrients. See the link below for more information. Here is a link that might be useful: Yellowing of rhododendron leaves

I don't think you have anything wrong with your vine. Based on the leaf appearance, rampancy and seeding habits, it sounds like C. terniflora or Sweet Autumn clematis. Considered invasive in many parts of the east, it's a big, aggressively growing vine that benefits from a severe pruning (like down nearly to the ground) annually. The bleaching or discoloring of various sections of leaves and stems is likely due to more exterior vining tendrils simply wrapping around and strangling the others. I wouldn't worry about it. If you cut it back hard next spring and thereafter, I doubt you'll see this problem again.

Hi. Tobacco varieties that are grown for commercial use are resistant to Tobacco Mosaic Virus. There may be pockets of TMV in some greenhouses that are growing heirloom varieties for their own use (or for decorative plants), but the smoker who uses commercial cigarettes/cigars will not transmit the virus. No problems there. I see some black specks on the leaves in the photo that's 3rd from the bottom. Could there be some pest activity going on there? Your plants look generally healthy. I think most of the problem is attributable to the need for fertilizer. It looks like you are doing a good job with watering too - not too little and not too much. Good on ya. The last photo, of the fruit, looks like blossom end rot. Most of what I've seen indicates that you need to fertilize the plants. With container plants, you need to fertilize regularly with a fast-acting fertilizer that has nutrients that are immediately available to the plant. Most potting soils do not contain nutrients and they don't hold nutrients because they wash out from watering. Get some inexpensive, water soluble, fast-acting fertilizer, such as Peter's or Miracle-Gro or one of the others. Dilute according to package directions for INDOOR plants. This is important. If you make it too strong, like for outdoor plants that are in the ground, it will damage the plants. Feed every 2 or 3 weeks or as suggested by the directions. Slow-acting fertilizers will not be useful to potted tomato plants so don't bother with things like Tomato Tone or bone meal or other amendments that take a long time to break down. They will be washed out before they get a chance to be useful. This should vastly improve the health of the fruit and leaves. Your fruits, with regular fertilizer and watering evenly, will stop getting blossom end rot. It should also help with the leaf issues. I don't see any disease. Maybe a little pest activity but that's easy to resolve with your favorite garden insecticide. Fertilizing is your most important issue. It will make a big difference. Enjoy!

Okay, I'm finally responding. I've been reading all of your replies as they come in to my email - I just haven't sat down to be at the forum lately. What a can of worms I opened! I am glad I asked before buying. Arley's response reminded me that I had read in Cook's Illustrated about owning about three to five knives that you primarily use, which makes sense. I currently use two knives constantly - a serrated utility knive and a chef's knife. So...decided to wait on the knives for now. Thanks to all the wonderful replies and great links, I have some homework to do. Honestly, I didn't even stop to think about 'trying' out each knife and how it would feel in my hands. Someone mentioned Cutco. Those are the two knives I own that I use all the time. I do like them - they're easy to use. Anyway, I am thrilled to get so much information back from you all and am amazed how many different brands are out there. So, with the Costco rebate check I bought...groceries. And, went out and purchased my first LeCreuset Dutch oven. It was more than half off at the outlet store - but it's a first, not a second. I couldn't help it, so the knives will be next month probably. I have lots of research to do on them now. Thank you so much for all the help! I plan to be lurking around this site for awhile. Now that my kitchen remodel is done, I have a new zest for cooking and baking. Thanks all! Kris