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Still trying to get rid of these weeds I cannot identify

8 years ago

With the weather so warm in zone 7 this time of year I am still spot spraying these weeds I still cannot identify. Using Weed b Gone they turn yellow this time of year and always come back in the spring.

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Comments (8)

Jean
8 years ago
Unfortunately, the images are taken from too far a distance. We need to see detail. So, please post another image which is focused on just one plant.
saturn333
Original Author
8 years ago
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It might be pokeweed, Phytolacca americana. I can't tell from the photo. Here's a thread on pokeweed with some photos of a large plant: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/namegal/msg0816284825135.html?14 Here are photos of younger plants: http://www.oardc.ohio-state.edu/weedguide/singlerecord.asp?id=270 If you can't remove all the root (which you must do in order to get rid of pokeweed), you can put a few drops of Round-up concentrate (or generic glyphosate concentrate) on it or pour boiling water in the hole with the root. If it sprouts again from the root, repeat.
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Hey heavensabvus1, you keep getting rid of these critters but if you enhance the natural immunity on your plants, you may be able to deter these bugs for the long term. I recommend working some worm castings into your soil or better yet, innoculate your soil with worms. Worm castings contain an enzyme called chitinase which eats away the shells of many insects. It will take a while for your plants to absorb these enzymes but it will save you a lot of trouble down the road. You may also want to innoculate your soil with beneficial bacteria and fungi. You can buy prepackaged organic fertilizers like Kelloggs at Home Depot that already have these organisms. These organisms form a symbiotic relation with your plant and soil rhizosphere and protect the plant and inhibit insect attacks by several mechanisms. One of these mechanisms is the direct infection of insects by some of the fungal or microbial organisms. Some of these microbial organisms, the bacillus species for example, are naturally found in the soil and certain bacteria and fungi can directly infect and eventually kill harmful insects. To get rid of your pests, I would also highly recommend putting out ant bait stations. Ants innoculate plants with aphids in order to create a steady supply of sweet plant sap. The ants pretty much farm the aphids. By getting rid of ants around your property, you should see a dramatic decrease in your aphid population. To directly kill the aphids, I recommend using Chrysanthemum tea. Chrysanthemum contains a chemical called Pyrethrin which act as a mild natural insecticide. You will have to spray your trees every couple of days for about a week or two untill the insects finally realize its futile. The aphids will eventually come back and you will have to spray again but hopefully your tree has absorbed enough chitinase from the worm castings and also your beneficial bacteria and mycohrizzal fungi would have established itself well enough in your potting soil that even if the bugs did come back, they will take one bite out of your plant, vomit a little, and scuddle to your neighbors yard for some greener pastures :) Beware of those ant bait traps around pets, small children and rain however. If it rains heavily in your area, the poison can get washed into your soil. I try to stay organic but I haven't found a good way of getting rid of ant aside from the bait stations. Good luck with your citrus!
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Comments (14)
For comparison, this is Glechoma hederacea growing at my house. 100% guarantee the ID of these pictures - I am an herbalist and do harvest this for herbal purposes. I tried to take a picture of a "patch" that was of similar character with close-ups for the OP to compare to. I do not see the "round objects" in the original photo but Glechoma hederacea do get galls in its stems that are very round. FataMorgana
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floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
8 years ago
Possibly Mousear Chickweed, Cerastium vulgatum. You could just dig it out, providing you get under the roots. If the turf were thicker they would not thrive so well so improving the lawn would help too.
saturn333
Original Author
8 years ago
It is in spots throughout the lawn I fertilize use weed and feed 2 applications a year an ortho weed be gone it still comes bac every spring in mat like shapes
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
8 years ago
Well, perhaps the Lawn Care Forum can help you. I am not familiar with lawns where you are but there appear to be a lot of bare and brown patches in that one which leave space for weeds to thrive. You could go for a chemical solution or a cultural one or a combination. But there isn't going to be a one off magic bullet.
kimmq
8 years ago
If Mouse Ear Chickweed, or any of the other species of chickweed, you are most likely killing off the current crop of plants but are getting new growth form seeds in the soil. Chickweeds are prolific producers of seeds that birds help spread hither and yon. According to many sources Chickweed seeds in your soil can take 8 to 10 years to run out.

Chickweeds also root from stems and leaves, and often when hand pulled bits and pieces of these plants are left behind and root and grow.

None of the commercially available plant poisons will work to keep unwanted plant seeds from germinating.

kimmq is kimmsr
gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
8 years ago
"None of the commercially available plant poisons will work to keep unwanted plant seeds from germinating."

Ummmmmm.........that's exactly what pre-emergent herbicides do - keep unwanted plant seeds from germinating.

But I agree with floral. You need to kill off the existing weeds, then improve the conditions for the lawn. A healthy, lush lawn is able to out-compete a lot of weed development. Investigate undergoing an springtime lawn care renovation program that involves overseeding after you have properly dispatched all current weeds. Once you have accomplished that and the lawn is doing well, you can apply a pre-emergent to prevent any blown in or bird-dropped seed from germinating and sprouting. Corn gluten meal is moderately effective in this regard plus it is an organic nutrient source.
floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
8 years ago
Cerastium vulgare is a perennial plant. So it will return from the roots, as well as from seed, unless completely eradicated. If any bits of root are left when pulling it will be back. In my climate it is evergreen and will bloom all winter in mild periods. So every scrap needs to go before it will give up.

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