fudge catastrophe on induction - x-post
lisa_a
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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lisa_a
8 years agoRelated Discussions
induction cooktops
Comments (43)LOL Moose! They have a LOT of markup built in to their appliance prices, do NOT be afraid to haggle! My TOTAL appliance budget was $10,000 and I kept to that, but got everything I wanted, with all of the features I needed. It's very hard to find a dealer in Canada with an actual induction top not only installed but operational (I never did find one in Winnipeg that had one operational lol). And Sears had their Kenmore setup, but it was a "dummy", I didn't like the stainless trim or the "raised" platform anyways, but it sure was handy when negotiating prices that there was something comparable to the KA so that they dealer I chose KNEW he had to be competitive (that's what I made him believe lol, I had NO intention of going with Kenmore). Anyways, because I had such a tough time finding them installed I thought you might like pictures to actually see it. Here is my overall kitchen (pardon the missing trim kit for my freezer/fridge), cooktop on the left wall. Closer photo: And even closer photo (please pardon the flash, it's very hard to photo black without backwash) Best of luck on your search Moose! Lora...See MoreFun with three-phase at home
Comments (44)Thanks, brickeyee. I rarely see electrical service equipment indoors in New Orleans. I think it is highly unlikely that the house was ever divided. I suspect that the previous homeowner installed some panels that he had on hand and they might have been used. There are a lot of light fixtures around the property that are probably salvaged. Recall that he was an electrician. I have other indications that he was pretty tight with his money. That, and the fact that he moved towards an all-electric house might explain why he felt he needed two panels. I am sure the original cooking equipment was gas. That was changed to electric in the early 60s. Sometime after that, he replaced the gas water heater with an electric one, and did the same with the dryer. That left only the central heat furnace and decommissioned gas wall heaters. The panels, typically for this region, are pretty corroded. That is the North side of the house under a gable so they are often wet. Even though they are not in great shape, I wont look forward to replacing them soon because there are MANY other things that need doing around the house, roofs, floors, AC,. If I go to the trouble of replacing the panels, I might as well ask the power company to put me on a more conventional system as it would probably save some headache down the line. You cant tell from the low res picture that I put up, but I would rate the age of the components: mast = meter pan The history of power to this house might be interesting. I think I see one spot with some disconnected knob/tube. This house was built before central air, but three-phase might have been added to power an early adopter of that technology. The house next door has three-phase power with an ancient meter that looks like a cabinet with a glass window. At the same time the homeowner was frugal, he enjoyed convenience. So far, I have found 5 switches controlling one garage light. I thought there were 4, but I found the 5th one last week :-) There are 4 switches controlling a hall light. Not unheard of, but unusual in my experience are the split outlets in the living room. A photocell-controlled outdoor spot light is typical, but the same circuit controls a convenience outlet in the BR. All you have to do is remember to turn the lamp on in the morning and a light will come on to greet you if you are not home before dark....See MoreNo drawers next to or beneath your cooktop/range – on purpose?
Comments (32)rebunky: I've spent the past couple of days just silently circling my kitchen and pondering -- DH thinks this reno has sent me off the edge (why are these kitchen posts fraught with unavoidable puns?!). Have also polled a number of my friends out here, and they think it's super counterproductive (heh...counter...ok) to tear down H-CoW to open up space/light, only to put in a new 36-40" wide CoW (floor to ceiling!). I actually spent time yesterday climbing up and down a ladder, connected pieces of posterboard in tow, and mocked up a wall -- tried to see how much light would be blocked from my bank of windows: lots...far too much. Even with that little undercab window pulling light in, I felt like I introduced a mini-cave into my kitchen. Just can't do it. One of the main reasons I'd move the cooktop to perimeter would be to take advantage of the better ventilation (up and out). So, if I made the move, I wouldn't also keep the downdraft. (Envisioning people watching me cook, and I can't get the vision of Graham Kerr out of my head!) I did realize that my current oldie electric coil cooktop has its panel of controls/knobs to the right, so burners have always been ~ 8-9" from the island edge. I may take Pal's suggestion (TY!) of widening the island, but will add the 3" to the cooktop side/cabinet. This may squish that walkway just a bit, but will still leave us with a ~ 36" aisle. The cooktop edge will still be only 4" from the island edge, but the smallest burner of the cooktop is another 2" in from that. Frankly, we decided on this particular cooktop knowing we'd primarily use the large center burner, and the bridge to the left (closest to the downdraft for more effective venting, relatively speaking). We've never found our current 6" burners of much use, but when we have, pot handles are ALWAYS turned toward center. I'm now hoping that widening the cooktop cabinet to 36" may open up the possibility of a small drawer directly beneath the cooktop. With the vent hood housing being 30"w, perhaps this leaves enough space on either side for the drawer hardware to attach (don't know that drawer glides span 34", however). We shall see. Again, thanks to everyone for taking time to provide input!...See MoreWe are installing a 30" induction cooktop in front of a window
Comments (50)I drew up the plan I proposed above, with adjustments as needed based on the additional information you've provided. I assumed that the fridge wall is 144" not 143" and gave the extra inch to the fridge portion. I also estimated the window at 36" wide (based on the photo). If these assumptions are incorrect, you'll need to adjust accordingly. I kept the fridge wall and oven cab in their current locations. Sink is shifted from its current location, which I realize requires trenching into your slab but thankfully, the sink is fairly close to its current location so costs should be fairly minimal. I put the wine fridge in the island. That location is more convenient whether you're in the family room, dining room or breakfast nook. It can be accessed without crossing into the prep zone, which is a plus. I tried to figure out how to get stemware closer to the wine fridge but that was a no-go. I shifted the cook top out from under the window and to the left. This has multiple pluses, IMO. One, you can vent the cook top with a hood, which is more efficient that a downdraft and won't require increasing the depth of the counter to fit a downdraft (that would steal space from the aisle between oven and fridge side, which is already less than recommended). Two, it's less expensive. Pop-up downdrafts are easily over $1K. You can get a nice looking, functional chimney hood for less than half that. An undercabinet hood is even more reasonably priced. Three, having the largest expanse of counter between wall ovens and cook top moves your primary prep zone from one side into the center of the kitchen. You'll take fewer steps going from fridge or pantry to the prep zone. The aisle between table and island is a bit on the lean side, which is why I recommend placing the chairs as shown in the drawing. Mock it up to make sure you're good with this, though. Now's the time to make adjustments. Keep in mind that the recommended aisle behind seating is 44" (see the drawing I posted above). It's fine to have less than that on the window side because that's not a primary aisle. I suspect that the island curve will need to be softened so that you can reach the center to clean it. Again, mock it up and see what works for you. I estimate that you'll have room for 3 stools but the final shape will determine that. Allow 24" per person so that people can sit comfortably with enough room for elbows and legs. If you need another seat, you can reduce the width of the bottom right cabinet and extend the counter overhang towards the pantry. I didn't add uppers above the 12" deep cabinets in the nook area. As drawn, there's a nice balance of cabinets and open space on that wall. It also gives you the option to add a window. I listed suggested kitchen organization - blue for clean-up, table setting, green for prep, cooking, baking - to get you started. Feel free to adjust to suit how you work. I found it helpful to mentally make a meal using a new lay-out to see what worked, what didn't and how I could adjust it to make it function better. Think about how it would work when you entertain, clean-up, make snacks, etc. You can amend the plan to keep the cook top under the window but if you do, I strongly encourage you to go with a hood over the cook top for reasons stated above. See the link mamagoose posted above to see kitchens with this set-up. The dimensions in red show you what you gain with a smaller diameter table,either a 42" round or square table (set at an angle).If you need additional storage, you'd have room for cabinets against the kitchen/family room wall. ETA: Ignore the dimensions and shape of the square table. I don't know where my head was but what I drew isn't a 42" square table. It's much smaller than that. You could probably do a 40" square table and be okay but a 36" square table would work better. Not sure that's a better solution, though. Mock it up with blue tape. I know you have some, lol. I tried a few other ideas but they required structural/slab work and I didn't feel that the trade-offs were worth the additional expense. HTH!...See Morelisa_a
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