I would mount them around 8" and 24" on center, they will not look proper if spaced evenly on center. Make sure to mount them high enough on the bottom rail to give clearance for fingers between casing or stool.If these windows open easy you could also go with one lift as well.

Kevin and beuhl, I would agree with you except for this: "My DH met with them before the sink area was cut. He talked with them at that time about faucet placement. They put the template that came with the sink at the place they were going to cut and, apparently the DH gave them the go ahead. This is what the fabricator told me and they weren't willing to replace at THEIR expense. I literally have to lean over the edge and it looks like I'm trying to crawl into it!!! Since the DH gave them the go-ahead for placement of the sink, it looks like I don't have a choice, other than to just live with it the way it is." I would talk to DH and make sure that is accurate and find out exactly what he agreed to. If DH really signed off on the sink placement, she has a much harder uphill battle to get the fabricator to change it at his expense. There is a strong argument, though, that they never should have even considered placing it there, and that it wasn't up to her DH to "catch" their mistake. They should know what it standard and workable and not try something that far off standard unless specifically requested to do so. My only advise would be to make sure DH didn't ASK them to put it in middle because he thought it would look better there without considering the functionality of it for her. I have no idea if her husband has a very long reach so that it would not present a problem for him, and it never occurred to him that it would for her, or never steps foot in the kitchen and wouldn't really have any idea of the functionality or what. Anyway, she can't really loose anything at this point by trying and can fight it and take it to the top, and maybe even settle for them fabricating for free and using the remnants if there are any, or pay for the slab and they fabricate at no charge or something like that. Kevin, I am sure you never would have placed the sink there, but what would you do if they objected to something you didn't consider or catch and they had signed off on it? This may be where a KD or contractor with a long standing relationship with a fabricator might be able to intervene and get them to come up with a compromise to make the customer happy if they have given the fabricator a lot of business in the past, and if they are that type of professional that really wants to make the customer happy. Sue

or how about no recessed lights at all? Recessed lights are mini spot lights and provide directional lighting straight down in a very small throw pattern. it casts shadows and illuminates the tops of your head. Throwing out how horribly inefficient cans are for ceilings from an energy loss standpoint (assuming there is attic space above), I have never found them to be good lighting in kitchens for the above reasons. Good lighting should be based around two simple things- tasks at hand and general illumination of the space without shadowing. An easy solution to fix all above issues is to not use them at all. Indirect lighting will provide general illumination to the space without creating shadows as light is not directed at a specific target (such as your body for example). An easy way to provide indirect lighting in a kitchen is T5 or LED linear fixtures above your cabinets positioned at an angle to project light out into the space to bounce off the ceiling. I use a double T5 fixture above the cabinets typically. This creates a large amount of light that can easily light yours and most kitchens. Next focus on task lighting to be directed at the tasks...your hands. You do not want your head to be blocking this. Standard island pendants typically work great for this since it directs the light straight down onto the work surface. T5 or LED continuous linear under cabinet lighting works great for other areas with cabinets above. The result is a bright, shadowless, illuminated space with plenty of light directly on your task and eliminating the sea of cans in a ceiling.

Is there some rule of thumb for the right height of outdoor sconces? I'm doing some Arts and Crafts lamps (feel free to vote for which you like better: the shape, not the finish/glass) and I'm trying to figure out how high they should be. There will be two flanking the windows on the right. At first I thought the bottom of the bracket should align with the bottom of the top window casing. But that's roughly 7 ft from ground level so the middle of the lamp will be at somewhere around 6'. It seems to me like that means the bulb will be pretty exposed to most people. Is it more appropriate to put the middle of the shade at (someone's) eye level? 5' from ground level? Is there a rule of thumb for this? Thanks!