New(?) Pothos (?) cultivar
woodnative
8 years ago
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Russ1023 (central Fla)
7 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Any new cultivars that bloom on new wood?
Comments (7)The only new intro for 2006, that I am aware of, is 'Blushing Bride', an ES variant. It joins the list of currently available "remondent" cultivars, ES, Penny Mac, David Ramsey, Decatur Blue and Oak Hill(which is the only one of the group, other than ES, that flowered on new wood in my garden this year. Both are still in bloom. ES still has many buds, but they will be history after the first freeze. For Lace-caps, have only 3 that set scattered buds and flowers on new growth, 2 are H. serrata's, 'Shichidanka' and an un-named cultivar grown from cuttings provided by Cristopher Lloyd(UK)(the Plantsman, not the Actor!) and H. mac. 'Madame Emile Mouillere'. Yep, I have one that has (both) white mops and blue L-C's on the same plant. Something in the water? soil? Can't be soil ammendments or fertilizer, I don't use either on my Hydrangeas.Must be in the Genes. Rb...See MoreAnother new pothos?
Comments (6)I've also seen a lot of eBay sellers posting obviously fraudulent photoshopped pictures of plants/flowers in impossible colors, etc. Some sellers are obviously knowledgeable and reputable dealers that just happen to use eBay as a platform, but there is a lot of riff-raff there as well. This book identifies pothos "Emerald Gem" as the "common solid green" variety of Epipremnum aureum. https://books.google.com/books?id=S__s1QADDJoC&pg=PA196&lpg=PA196&dq=pothos+emerald+gem&source=bl&ots=TZLHcM0Srq&sig=-eXkxEY5lm9hBzBgFP6fTX1taUM&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjnjMaYiIjNAhUJ7IMKHWVcD5QQ6AEIMzAH#v=onepage&q=pothos%20emerald%20gem&f=false...See MorePothos help - all new growth deformed / blackened
Comments (14)Do you live in a large city? While a 2-week wait (or longer) for the soil to dry down is fairly common, commonality doesn't mean the plants that grow in it are going to show appreciation. Let's work on that point, and I have some other ideas that will allow you to make adjustments that might fix whatever is going on. That you can go long intervals between waterings w/o under-watering means there is an excess of water in the grow medium for at least a week after a thorough watering and perhaps longer. I know you've been at GW for awhile now, so you've probably read my tips on how to significantly reduce the amount of excess water your medium can hold. I'll outline them in case you're already familiar. * You can use items in the pot bottom as ballast to displace a large fraction of the grow medium that would otherwise be filled with excess water. * If the pot is of manageable size, moving it downward then sharply upward while holding the pot over the sink can remove ALL excess water from the pot. * You can tip the pot when done watering, which also removes a good measure of excess water. * You can use a wick through the side of the pot exactly where the sidewall meets the bottom (that's the best spot) or through the drain hole. Compare B to A to see what tipping your pots gains you; and compare E to A to see what a wick can do. Figure D is one way of using an item as ballast, but there are other set-ups. Sometimes, when the bark is too large, you'll get stratification where the peat migrates to the bottom of the soil column (causing it to remain wet for long periods) while all the bark is at the top of the soil column; but through the tell, it would seem you'd be picking up on that. Still, it's worth investigating when you repot. Wet soil and organic forms of N can combine to cause ammonium toxicity, and your fertilizer derives all of its N from urea. This is a very common issue but one seldom diagnosed. Your fertilizer doesn't contain Ca or Mg. Garden lime serves as not only a pH adjuster, but as a source of Ca and Mg as well. The magnesium fraction of garden lime is more than 125X more soluble in water than the calcium carbonate it contains, so it's not uncommon for a planting to need a Mg boost after a couple of years, especially when using a fertilizer that contains no Mg. I used to use and recommend MG 12-4-8 or MG 24-8-16 because I hadn't yet found Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. It has ALL nutrients essential to normal growth, and serves admirably as a complete single source nutrition package. I use it for all plants except tomato and hibiscus. For those, I still use it, but I increase the amount of K it contains for hibiscus and tomato by adding ProTeKt 0-0-3, which also contains silicon, which I have found makes a big difference in that it helps plants better tolerate heat/cold, too wet/too dry, insect herbivory and disease pathogens. You might want to try the Foliage-Pro 9-3-6. In the meanwhile, you can try adding a dose of Epsom salts with a solution strength equal to 1/4 level tsp/gal. I almost never recommend dosing with anything aimed at providing a single nutrient, but in this case there is so little probability of a negative result it seems reasonable. Finally, the damage is concentrated in areas of the leaf where the variegation is lightest. If these plants get much foll sun, it could be sunburn. The pigment, chlorophyll, actually protects the leaf's photosynthesizing apparatus from solar overload. Leaf tissues with little to no chlorophyll are much more sun-sensitive than their greener neighbors. Al...See MoreLarge Brown Spots on Satin Pothos and New Leaves are Pale and Small
Comments (2)Krissa started a new thread here, and provided images so you can SEE the symptoms. Al...See MoreRuss1023 (central Fla)
7 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
7 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
7 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
7 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
7 years agoMentha (East TN, Zone 6B-7A)
7 years agoIben Rasmussen
6 years agowoodnative
6 years agoIben Rasmussen
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6 years agoIben Rasmussen
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6 years agoIben Rasmussen
6 years agowoodnative
6 years agoIben Rasmussen
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6 years agoakrrm (Nancy in NJ 7a)
6 years agoIben Rasmussen
6 years agojay
5 years agoJustin
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agojay
5 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
5 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
5 years agojay
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agobarbmock
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
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5 years agoPhoto Synthesis
5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoJustin
5 years agoPhoto Synthesis
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5 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
5 years agojay
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5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoRuss1023 (central Fla)
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