dianalo: Thanks for your questions. (1) Wearability/Finish: The cabinets will be two years old in May. They've held up beautifully. Not a mark on them (knock on wood). As a precaution, I had paint mixed to have on hand in case of scratches or mars, but have yet to use it. They wipe down with a clean sponge; I do dry them to prevent spotting or streaks. Once , while I left the door under the sink open, I banged the adjacent plate drawer into the sink cabinet handle; not a mark on the drawer front. (though if you choose large handles like mine, they do create some issues that you might want to consider in your planning). One minor issue with the finish: Ikea furnishes little self-adhesive cabinet door/drawer bumpers; they seem to move around over time on this slick lacquer finish; requires readjustment by just moving it to where it was originally. (2) Assembly: I'm a life-long stay-at-home wife who will never see 50 again. I assembled all the cabinets myself; though I did need help on the tall pantry cabinets (they are very heavy). I used a power screw driver when possible. It is a lot of screwing. I don't remember how long it took to assemble them; it does get very quick since it is just the same steps over and over once you learn the process. I know I was easily able to do several a day (3) Installation: My brother installed the cabinets for us. I was the helper, when necessary. He had never installed any kind of kitchen cabinets before (though he is a tile contractor and has installed bathroom vanity cabinets). He loved the Ikea mounting system. At the time, this kitchen was a big leap of faith, mainly because of the long distance aspect of using Ikea -- 5 hour drive one way. But in the end it was definitely worth it. Also, if you are considering an Ikea kitchen, you must visit the IkeaFans website; it was started by Ikea posters here and is invaluable for anyone considering Ikea. Best of luck.

When we moved into our house it was almost all white because the elderly p.o.s probably paid someone to whitewash it to sell. They painted over bad sheetrock and wallpaper. It looked ok at first glance, but one of the best parts of doing the reno was to finally have some color. If a house is white for a scheme, it comes off better than if it is white because it is easier to paint the walls and trim the same color. You can tell the difference. I think if you want a light neutral and don't want the creams and beiges that have been very popular, I'd try a pale yellow. It looks great with wood floors and antiques and mixes well with a full range of decors. We painted an apartment in our first house and even though we had male tenants over the years, they all commented on loving it. It works best if the trim is a pure white to have some contrast. It gives you color without hitting anyone over the head if you go very light toned. I have used it when recommending to builders and flippers what to paint for the main rooms because it is cheery and subtle. Blues come in and out of fashion and beige and cafe au lait have been big for a while, so will be on the way out soon. Greens can be hard to coordinate if you want flexibility (although I love a nice green). Pink and peach take real commitment, and a thick skin if used outside of a child's room, and a pale lavender is also one that can limit the materials used with it (no maroon or reds work well with it, IMHO). White can actually be harder to match because of the many tones to white. When I used a pale yellow in my house, I made sure that nothing of any significance in the room was yellow, so there'd be no clashing. It worked as a back drop for the stronger colors of the antique furniture or white wts. It is the prettiest color to put alongside oak floors, to me.

"Chantilly Lace" by Benjamin Moore is a very pure white, it works great for minimalist spaces with wood accents. "Cloud White" is also a safe bet and has a slightly warmer hue.

That's the paint base info. My guess since there's no label/formula is it's White OC-151.