Advice on large Crosby jade Bonsai
Dave (5a)
8 years ago
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Dave (5a)
8 years agoDave (5a)
8 years agoRelated Discussions
New Mini Jade Bonsai Tree!
Comments (2)I have a portulacaria afra myself. It sounds like you got one at Loews, or somewhere similar, since there was gravel on top of the soil. removing it was a good move. I never understood why they glue rocks on top of the soil. I think this is to mimic the fact that most true bonsai are grown in a very granular soil. As far as portulacaria afra care goes, I keep mine in a southeastern facing window that gets direct sun. I had it in an eastern facing window for a while and it did poorly, I have assumed that this was due to lack of light. So be sure to give it as much light as possible. during warmer months if you can put it outside, then that will help it. those trees you see when you google portulacaria bonsai get alot more light than even mine does. that is why they grow so lush and compactly (the lush growth may also have to do with fertilizer). In terms of watering, portulacaria is a succulent, so it can withstand some drought, but it seems to be less drought tolerant than actual jade is. mine dropped its leaves once when I went too long without watering it. but you should let the top of the soil dry out before you water it. On to soil, typical bonsai soil is basically some sort of small gravel, maybe with woodchips or other large organic particles. However, I am an amateur and find that when I grow the easy indoor bonsai species such as portulacaria or ficus, they don't mind having regular potting soil. I usually buy the miracle grow potting soil from the store and mix it with perlite at about 1:1 ratio. my jade, and portulacaria, and ficus are all growing healthy and fine, even with reduced root balls. both crassulata (jade), and portulacaria are great plants for a beginners. This is because they grow in a very beautiful, bonsai-like fashion without even requiring much training. I have a 4 year old jade tree in a regular size pot that is incredibly impressive and looks like a miniature tree without ever having been pruned or trained. just make sure that you give it lots of sun and enough water. I am a beginner to bonsai when it comes to pruning and training, but my advice would be to worry about growing the plant normally first, and once you see that you can take care of it without training, then you can start experimenting with pruning and training. I don't know how much general plant experience you have, but it may be a good idea to try re-potting your portulacaria in a normal sized pot and try growing it For a year or two in that pot. Then maybe try pruning it down to bonsai size. it is a good idea when you start experimenting with training a bonsai to take a cutting of the plant to root a new baby plant, so that if you kill the parent plant you don't have to go out and buy another one. I do this all the time now. anyway, these are the things that I have found work best. Bonsai, in my experience, is not something you can just do. It takes years to get good at it. You will make mistakes in pruning, and you will kill plants, and you will have to wait months in order to overcome your mistakes. I did a bad wiring job on one of my trees two years ago and the scars are still visible . . . On the other hand, for most of the year all you need to do is water and occasionally fertilize your plants, you only end up doing the hard work once or twice a year depending on how much your plants grow. Good luck with your new plant and if you have any other questions let me know!...See MoreChinese Jade Bonsai
Comments (19)All you need do to see if anyone is serious about Portulacaria bonsai is use the words in bold to do a search, and look at the images. It is indeed a plant entirely suited to world class bonsai, whether the artist was trained in Japan or not. Crassula ovata, on the other hand, doesn't lend itself well to being a subject that makes believable bonsai. That said, I have a nonbonsai-growing friend that is happy to be lightened by a good bottle of wine or two in exchange for an annual pruning of her C ovatas and potulacarias, and I employ the same pruning principles on the Jade as I would on other trees. It's a very large specimen with a 6"+ trunk, and it looks quite believable as a very large bonsai, but lacks the grace and fine texture with which other trees can be endowed. Once 'bonsai' is ingrained in the way you think, it will influence the way you prune anything, even if the subject is entirely inappropriate as bonsai material. It can't be helped, lest you simply maintain a hands-off policy and leave the plant to it's own devices. Al...See MoreLarge Jade advice
Comments (31)Imagine what the tree might look like when *completed*. What is the overall height you see? Then look at attractive trees in nature, and how parts of the tree look relative to one another. One bonsai guideline is the trunk thickness approximately 1/6-1/12 the height of the tree. From the height you imagine for your plant, you can now get an idea if the trunk will be thick enough. If not, either grow the plant aggressively to thicken the trunk or adjust the total height you plan for your tree. Back to attractive trees in nature, how long is the trunk before the first branches come off? How long are the first branches before the next branching occurs? How much thinner are each level of branches than the trunk or branches before? There should be a definite decrease of length and girth at each level of branching(and a definite increase in the number of branches). These are things I have in mind when looking at developing a bonsai in order to create the illusion of a giant, old tree in a tiny pot. Now, the trunk of yours is hard to see, but looking at the length vs. girth of the main branches, the branches seem long in relation to how thick they are. That is why I was more attracted to the picture that involved cutting them shorter. If I could shift gears a little, (you may already know this, so my apologies if I am sharing something too basic) I inherited a large, old jade in a large pot- much like yours but several different plants. It had been in too little light and too much water of late. After cogitating, I decided to both prune heavily and do a repot to know the root conditions. It was in potting soil, and when I took it out of the pot, even though the pot was 12 inches deep the roots were only in the top few inches. Furthermore, the bottom 6 inches of the soil were literally soggy even though the top 2 inches were relatively dry- the roots didn't want to go there b/c of the waterlogging. I repotted the separate plants all in one wide, shallow pot to create a forest, and cut off all but the trunks and a few primary branches. Saying that is to say this: in similar conditions to yours, I was drastic with mine and it survived and is looking good now. The hard part for me was to not water much until there was new foliage to use that water. Monitor the moisture in the soil very closely until it starts growing again, and consider a repot even if only to pull it out of the pot, remove any unnecessary soil(that will only serve to hold onto too much water) and place it back en masse. Tomorrow I will start a new jade thread and show off my humble little forest. Today, I hope I've done more than just muddy the waters......See MoreBonsai Jade Help
Comments (42)A very nice LED lighting set up . LED lighting ( in a sense) isn't very common for many to use on the forum. More commonly used ( at four foot bulb lengths) are T- 8 or a T type 6500 K CFL. As they are somewhat more practical and in budget @ price per bulb for those who have ( less rare )longer sun time season of 5-8 months. With a wide range of plant hardy zones in USA some folks don't even have to bring in a jade. As seen via Kzzle Meow in original posting it seems the jade is outside which indicates they ( Meow) may be in a better growing zone for a jade than most others who share information....See Moreqwade
8 years agoqwade
8 years agobreathnez
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoDave (5a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoJeff Smith
8 years agoDave (5a)
8 years agoDave (5a)
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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Dave (5a)Original Author