Hey Beth, Thanks. I figured something might be up. I got my last Schultz from Ace but that was 2 years ago. Ceterum - sorry to hear you had back problems too. It is unbelievable how many people suffer from that. I never knew until it happened to me. Hope you're well now. This is off subject but I wanted to respond to everyone who was kind enough to share their thoughts on pH. Guys, I've been growing roses for a long time. I know how to handle my soil and feed programs (but sharing info is still good - don't stop). One thing that I think may be confusing the issue is that feed programs differ in the number of amendments and the number of feeds depending on whether one is growing roses for exhibition or growing for their own garden enjoyment. And also in ones philosophy, meaning organics vs inorganics, etc. I feed for exhibition. Phosphorous is extremely important for root systems and blooms. It is true though that one doesn't want to overdo. To answer the pH question, my pH has dropped to 4.3 to 4.5 in some areas - HOLY SMOKE!!! Other areas are in the 5's. My pH is typically "kept" or "raised" to 6.5 due to amendments and liming. I have a professional pH reader. Somewhat expensive piece of hardware but extremely good to have. Much more accurate than the ones that read moisture, pH, etc. Those will still get the job done though. Well, back to subject. I may just have to nix the 10-50-10. I don't really want to use the Triple Super Phosphate as I wanted a water soluble. But . . . we do what we can with what we have :) Thanks again everyone for sharing your thoughts. Melanie

Oh Julie! I wish I could have gone to this! My weekends are now totally messed up into October - can't even make our GW Swap now and I'm rather upset... Miss you bunches :) -Marie

That is an old " wood case " transformer in that frame ( welder ). It requiers 50 amps for a reason. The open circuit voltage in a welder is approx. 120 - 150 volts. The minuet you srtike an arc your voltage drops to the rated voltage. 25 V. It should be 32-36 that is why they need 50 amp input. If you run the welder without it's rated input voltage and amperage you will not get the proper closed circuit voltage and you will have one hell of a time to strike an arc without the rod sticking constantly. Then the breaker will blow. The new welders have a shunt coil in them absorbing the massive current surge when the arc is struck stabilizing closed circuit voltage keeping it the same. Is this an A.C. or D.C. welder ? You must use the proper rod for both or they will stick and sputter. The rods are different. I've been welding for years with my welder that will put out 225 amps. I've never gone higher than 70 amps. I'll use 225 amps to cut 1/2 inch iron. My welder has a 40 amp input with shunt and is about 30 years old. I'd say your welder is older. You do have an excellent welder.Give it the power it needs. You can weld with it at 70 amps all day or untill you run out of rod. You will never trip that breaker.

The wire count is 3 (hot, hot, neutral) + 2 (device) + 1 (all grounds). If an internal cable clamp was used add another allowance. You are at least 6 allowances of #8 wire at 3in^3 each, for a total of 24 in^3 of box volume. A 4x4x2.125 square box is 42 in^3 (14 #8 allowances). See Table 314.16(A) and 314.16(B)and 3 314.16(B) for box fill calculations. If the ground is #10 you could roll that in to reduce the volume slightly (2.5 in^3) for the ground fill, but it does not appear to matter. Even with adequate fill, larger conductors can be a real PITA to position. The biggest 'gotcha' is damaging the insulation as you try to shape them. Smooth jawed pliers work best here. Flat nose and round nose allow shaping with less chance of gouging insulation. At least some of it comes down to muscle. Make sure you keep strands tight after stripping and use no-corrode on any aluminum.