thanks rustyj14 i have a old one i am working on but i want to get my garden up so untill it gets going i have to do the best with what i have and very little money well thanks for the advice it was not any of the stuff i was told to look at but from lifting up the rear end to get where i could see the transaxle i got alot better look at the clutch pulley and there was a plastic pulley and it was melted almost in half so it was a cheep pulley if the small town i live in would off had the part so i went to tractor supply and got a steal pulley the right size just had to do a little machining on a bushing and it worked great problem fixed but if it had not been for you telling me to look at the transaxle i would have never seen the pulley from that angle so thank you very much for the help

Briggs allows use of E10 in their engines without modification. Has slightly higher octane, which doesn't do anything as these are already low compression engines. E10 has less heat (BTU's) than gasoline, so you'll get poorer fuel economy (maybe 5%-10%). Briggs specifically does not recommend E85 and states usage could be grounds for warranty denial. To run E85 you would need to rejet carburetor (richer) and replace all elastomers (rubbers) and plastics in the fuel system. Ideally, you would also want to raise compression ratio by milling head or replacing piston with some type of pop-up. Also, advancing ignition 3 to 5 degrees would be necessary. If you do all of this correctly, you should be able to run E85 with as much or more horsepower than stock. You will own a highly modified engine which means no warranty. Also, your per gallon fuel economy will be down approximately 35% due to the much lower heat content of ethanol. Actual thermal efficiency should be about same as gasoline engine. Going a step further, I wouldn't even think about running any type of methanol blend. Performance is similar to ethanol, but meth is much more corrosive to aluminum and Zamac components common in small engines. As little as 0.5% meth has been found to be highly reactive with zinc alloy die cast parts.

with the engine off and the machine cooled down... and a flashlight or trouble light, try to see if the ground drive belt is still on both the engine pulley, the two clutch idler pulleys and the larger driven pulley toward the rear o top of the tranny ( this is a long belt, hidden way back up in the main frame channel - you may have to remove the mower deck to get a good look at it). If it "looks" good, CAREFULLY start the engine, try to drive the tractor and see if the large driven tranny pulley is being turned. If so, Then time to get professional help or take tractor to shop, imho. Above all, be safe - easy to get hurt up under there.

I have a Hechinger riding mower with 18hp briggs and stranton and cant find the wiring schematics for it anywhere. Can anyone tell me how to rewire it to bypass the safety switches? Thanks in advance.