Calamondin tree in pots?
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8 years ago
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johnmerr
8 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Winterizing problem for Meyer Lemon and Calamondin trees
Comments (3)Howdy Nellie. Since you're in Tn, your Meyer and Cal will have to come indoors during winter. Calamondin are bitter tasting. The fruit is mainly used to make jelly/marmalade. Are your citrus outdoors now? If so, keep them outside until temps are in the 50's. Some people leave out till temps dip to 40F, but IMO, that's a tad too cold for a citrus to adjust, especially after bringing in a warm/hot house. It's a shock to plants, more chance of leaf drop. Place citrus in the brightest south or west window. Keep away from a heating source, like vent. Keep soil on the dry side during gray days..In other words, water thoroughly, but don't water again until soil is dry. If your Meyer is in too large a pot, and you didn't use well-draining soil, this 'may' cause problems, including root rot. How much larger is the new pot from the old? If you used a well-draining soil, there's less chance of overwatering. Once the air in your home turns dry, invest in a humidifer. Daily mistings and weekly showering (in tub or sink) works magic. Withhold fertilizert until days lenghten or you see new growth. That's about it. There are many reason leaves yellow..over and underwatering, insects, and deficiency are a few. Whenever a new plant is purchased, it should be inspected for insects, so give it a look-see. Over and under leaves, between stems, in soil. Do you know what to look for? BTW, remove yellow leaves. Good luck, Toni...See MoreFixing potted roots, or when is a potted tree a potted tree
Comments (5)Worst problems with larger trees and shrubs typically date back to when they were small trees. The only difference with the specimen being more advanced is that you have more to work your way back through to look for a tight knot or fist below the crown dating back to when it was left too long in a band or small pot - buying them small only makes the deformed roots easier to expose and see. If the disposition of the roots is too severe you are either stuck with planting it and hoping for the best or giving up on it - I threw out a 35 dollar one gallon weeping Nootka cypress because at planting I found that the ENTIRE root system consisted of what looked like a ponytail hair braid like some women belonging to Jehovah's Witnesses wear. How the grower was even able to get the rootstock to twist around itself like that I cannot imagine. Not only was it coiled but it dipped down and then back up, in a U shape. You only plant in spring because that is when the plants are on the market (in good condition, apart from the usual root issues) or because the plants are tender kinds. Otherwise hardy stock should always be planted in fall, late enough that summer heat and drought has passed or is waning but early enough that the big fall annual root elongation has not occurred. (If the roots have to be operated on to a sufficient extent most of the extending of existing roots in fall may be lost, as only intact roots do this). You can tell if a specimen may be about to do this or already doing it by looking at the top, the setting of winter stem buds at the ends of mature, hardened shoots is what causes the root tips to grow at this time of the year. Spring planting is culturally inferior because the soil has been chilled all winter and summer heat and drought are around the corner. Bare-rooted stock from grower warehouses is only planted in spring because the feeder roots are all dried up and dead, need to be replaced before the specimen is fully functional - fall-planted bare-rooted stock is essentially hardwood cuttings with old roots already present but still needing to be protected from the worst winter conditions. New roots grow in spring in response to the opening of winter stem buds. Both in fall and in spring these buds generate hormones which cause the roots to grow. This is one of multiple reasons you don't want to cut tops back at planting, you are reducing the amount of hormones that will reach the roots....See MoreIs it okay to transplant my nurssery Calamondin tree to bonsai?
Comments (7)Hello Josh: I have pics below. I think I will move the tree to a smaller pot, like 10" and 5-7" deep, keep the potting soil, instead of bonsai soil. Since I want to see it everyday at my work sooo sooo bad. :D The rootball hopefully will not get affected too much since the soil content originally is about 8" deep or so. :D In March I will make it a bonsai. What do ya think? Risky risky? Little bit okay? :) It will be okay I hope. I will watch it everyday to see how it's going. If it's not doing well, I will post you pics and ask more help then??? Please stay tuned!!! :) Thank you so much for responding to my questions. ;) Pics Notes: - The pic with more foliage is the tree that I already pruned on the right side ( after I pruned it, I said hey I forgot to take a pic of it...) The right side had as much foliage as the left side. - Flower buds are on the right side. - Fruits are on the left. - The pruned tree is about 12-13" tall....See MoreWhite/Yellow Spots on Potted Calamondin
Comments (11)Hi Chelsey, the brown is definitely fertilizer burn and the white is sunburn. When you go from greenhouse or houseplant to outdoors you need a few weeks of shade for the plant to adjust to the hot sun. For an action plan I would scrape off the top inch of soil and remove as much fertilizer as possible. Put the plant under an umbrella and water daily. The combination of heat, repotting, and fertilizer are not a good combination. Not sure the composition of the "soil" but most prepared soils/potting mixes have ample nutrients already in them. Also avoid putting the fertilizer to close to the crown next time. I grow sweet oranges and use a Blue Lab pulse meter to check soil EC before adding more fertilizer. Anything above 2.0 EC and my plants will show the same symptoms....See MoreUser
8 years agoponcirusguy6b452xx
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocalamondindave
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoUser
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8 years agohobbyartisan (Saskatoon, SK Canada, 2b)
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8 years agopip313
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agohobbyartisan (Saskatoon, SK Canada, 2b)
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8 years agolast modified: 8 years agocalamondindave
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agohobbyartisan (Saskatoon, SK Canada, 2b)
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