Absolute zero for foliage is different for different varieties. Anywhere from 32 to 15 degrees.Consider absolute zero for foliage to be when the leaves freeze to death. Absolute zero or 55.4F pertains to citrus roots. At 55.4F citrus roots cease to function. You are correct WLD is not a serious problem for trees grown outside. However for trees grown indoors in an artificial situation WLD can be a problem as many, many hobbiest can attest. You seem to generally have a good understanding of the problem. When a citrus tree is placed in a cool room and the foliage is directly in front of a southern exposure a problem can occur. Direct sunlight can easily raise the leaf surface 18+ degrees above the ambient air temperature, depending on the duration of time the tree is subjected to these conditions. If the tree's roots are at 55.4F degrees or lower the citrus roots cannot and do not function. They cannot sent the required water up to the foliage for evaporation to cool the leaves. Even at temperatures closely above 55.4F the root's ability is many times insufficient to properly cool the tree. Many times WLD happens after a very sunny day. WLD rarely happens after cloudy days. Stressbaby, your correct in your thinking. The value of the lights for a tree in the situation that I described above is to keep the growing medium's temperature high enough so that the roots can operate. If your greenhouse conditions are such that the temperatures can keep the roots approximately at 64 degrees then you should not need the extra protection that lights can afford. Unless you are only trying to obtain the maxium growth out of your trees all year around. An example an orange tree in Florida might take 10 years from seed to produce fruit, but the same tree in the tropics might only take half the time. BTW nice home and greenhouse. Your an interesting person, I'm glad you joined the citrus forum. Take care. - Millet

I think if you have the lights above the mirrors, that centered above them and should be smaller than the mirrors. Pointing up or down seems to be no wrong or right, simply a matter of personal preference. I think sometimes it depends on the light itself, some look better pointing up aand some look better pointing down. ( I have in my master bath two 3 light vanity lights pointing up above my mirrors, In my hall bath, I have a 3 light one pointing down. I like them both.I guess I was no help other than to say the light should be less wide than the mirrors.

To me it looks like a buggy anchor. A short rope about 4 feet long is attached by feeding the rope through the hole from the rounded side to the flat side, then a knot is tied in the rope on the flat side to keep the rope from pulling back through. A snap is connected on the opposite end of the rope and it is carried in a buggy. When they stopped the buggy the snap was attached to the horses bridle and the weight was dropped on the ground to serve as an anchor to hold the horse. Here in N.E, Ohio many of the Amish still carry those weights in their buggies.

In our U-shaped 187sf kitchen renovation, should we include room lights, task lights, and under-cabinets lights? We have low 7ft ceilings so pendants are not an option. We definitely plan on the under-cabinets but I wonder if we need both ambient lights and task light in the ceiling which could look a bit messy. (There is only one window so the room is not bright.) And then what color temp should those be? I was thinking 8 low-profile reflector ambient lights that can dim from 1800-3000K together with the under-cabinets would be sufficient. And then what temp should those be? Would love to get some expert insight. Thanks!