Malathion Treatment For Chilli Thrips?
hoihoisoi
8 years ago
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hoihoisoi
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
Re: Chilli-Thrips - - What organic treatments are there?
Comments (3)Conserve does contain Spinosad, 11% I believe (and you pay at least $150 a bottle for it!). I used Monterey Insect Killer, because I wanted to try the lowest concetration possible, just in case. Monterey contains .5% Spinosad. It worked fine until we had that first cool front a few weeks ago that seemed to get them all stirred up again. I haven't re-sprayed, but just cut back damaged areas. I'm hoping that they'll be done munching soon so that I don't have to worry about spraying again. If you don't have any damage in your garden... YAY! Do the Snoopy Dance for good luck and hopefully your garden will just skip that nasty this year....See MoreHow to transplant mature roses, but not chilli thrips?
Comments (4)I'm so sorry you're having these issues, Roselee. I also sympathize with your desire not to use pesticides as well as not "share the wealth", sending the thrips to the gentleman's garden, though they are very likely to make it there all by themselves. You would be hard pressed to receive advice more expert than Malcolm's. If he advises using imidacloprid, that is what I would use, strictly adhering to the label instructions. Of course, the ideal for the Teas would be not to have to move them and not to have to whack them back, but what can you do? Thankfully, those with Fortuniana roots have a very good chance of rebounding well, and quickly, due to the extra push that rose provides. The own root plants will take a while longer, but CAN rebound if provided the best culture and position possible. Most of the Austin roses will recover well, given the weather, culture and conditions they are moved in provide at least the minimum any rose requires to thrive. The only ones I might worry over would be any really weak growers, like Dove. Hopefully, the winter will cooperate, providing you with rain and cooler temps which will both give the roses better chances of recovery. Personally, I would treat them with the pesticide as instructed for Chili Thrips. If possible, I would permit them to retain as much of a root ball as possible, balancing the tops to the root size (or even a bit larger root system compared to the top growth) and move them as you know they should be. You're an experienced gardener and rose grower with a lot of good judgement and intuition. Between the two of you, I'm sure they can be moved properly and receive the best care and attention possible. It honestly boils down to you just have to do what you have to do. The "ideals" are just that, ideals. Sometimes, you can't do the "ideal". You just have to do what you CAN. Good luck to you both! I certainly do not envy you the thrips, nor having to remove the roses. I've already moved many hundreds, both canned and in-ground, four times. There will NOT be a fifth. Kim...See MoreThrips ... Yes I've got em..How to control ??
Comments (7)I have been battling them all spring and summer here in Prescott, AZ, starting with "organic" methods such as insecticidal soap and garlic oil spray, neither had any significant impact. Then I went to the vegetable dust with "permethrin", which does not have long residual (this is the same ingredient in flea powder for your pets), but it did little to help. Finally, last week I couldn't take it anymore. I was so tired of seeing thrips infested blossoms drop to the ground, and was fearing spotted wilt virus of which they are vectors, so I broke down and decided to go for the big guns, as I too want to "nuke em"! So I sprayed with malathion. My neighbor has successfully used that on her fruit trees and berries to control thrips (they are the same kind as what's on our tomatoes: western flower thrips). I sprayed with a hose end dial sprayer to get good thorough wetting. But I also mixed some solution in a spray bottle and painstakingly lifted each blossom in one hand and sprayed a fine mist into the flower with the spray bottle. One web site I found suggested that the fine mist penetrates the blossoms better. It's not quite been a week, so it's premature to draw definite conclusions, but I do visually inspect my 9 precious mater plants every day (much to my husband's chagrin, several times a day), and since I sprayed, I am seeing fewer thrips, my plants definitely look perkier, and the new growth is thrips-damage free so far. I hope in a few more days I can say with certainty that my blossom drop is also diminishing, seems like it is. I am still finding the little suckers on my plants, but not as many. So I feel hopeful. I intend to respray again after one week, and perhaps will continue through the summer, though I'd like to discontinue if possible. I was thinking that maybe if I can get the infestation under control, then I can go back to organic methods as preventive maintenance? I also practice a vigorous "squishing" protocol every morning. They are quick little suckers so you kind of have to ambush them. When you see one, carefully put your index finger of one hand real close to it. It will run in the opposite direction from your finger. But little does it know that you are waiting for it to run right where you want it to so that you can quickly "squish" it with your other hand. I usually put my first finger behind it so it runs toward the front of the stem in perfect position for the kill! I realize this may sound tedious or perhaps neurotic, but when you figure that the adult female can lay between 130 to 250 eggs, it somehow makes every ambush "squish" well worth the effort, not to mention the personal satisfaction!!! Once you get into it, you'll know what I mean! There is tons of info on the web, just search by western flower thrips. Keep us all posted as to your methods and results!!! Hope this helps! Good Luck!!!! AZ Kayla...See MoreCommon pests (Mites, mealy bugs, thrips)
Comments (0)MITES: Mites are the most dreaded of the African violet pests because of the damage they cause and the difficulty (and expense) of eradicating them. Mites are tiny arachnids, measuring about 1/100 of an inch. Most people need a jeweler's loupe to see them. The damage is usually in the center, or crown, of the plant. You may notice the crown is deformed, hairy or tight. Mites produce a toxin that causes the leaves to curl, twist and become stunted. Too much light or too much fertilizer can also cause similar symptoms. To kill the mites, you must treat the plants with a miticide such as Avid, Pylon or Kelthane (Dicofol). Cape Cod Violetry and Grower Supply sell these products. Other treatments such as Neem oil may control mites but will not kill them. Some growers choose to throw out plants with mites rather than to treat because of the difficulty and expense involved. MEALY BUGS: These white insects are visible to the naked eye and are about 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch. They may look like specks of cotton on the leaves or leaf axils. Mealy bugs may also be found in the soil, where they will look like grains of rice. The symptoms are generally a plant that fails to bloom, grow and is just suffering overall. Treat with Malathion or Marathon. Marathon is available from Cape Cod Violetry or Grower Supply. Other treatments such as dipping a cotton swab in alcohol will control the problem, but not rid the plant of the insects. THRIPS: These insects are about 1/50 of an inch. You can see them with the naked eye, although a jeweler's loupe may help. Thrips are most often found in the flowers. Gently blowing on the blossom may make them more visible. A classic symptom is yellow pollen spilled on the flowers. The first step in eradicating thrips is to disbud the plant. This means removing all flowers and flower stalks. It deprives the thrips of their favorite food. After disbudding, treat with Neem Oil, Malathion, Marathon, Avid or Conserve. Keep disbudding for at least six weeks. Join us on the African Violets forum....See More
Buford_NE_GA_7A
8 years agohoihoisoi
8 years agoBuford_NE_GA_7A
8 years ago
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