I usually replant mine late spring early summer before the garden gets too stuffed with perennials. Wouldn't it be easier for you to just leave them there and plant Daylilies among the bulbs? The Daylily foliage will hide spring bulb foliage while it stores more nutrients for next season.

I've had some decent sized, branched plants comparable to some 1-gallon plants in top growth, and I've also had some that were not much beyond a rooted cutting. They send you the oldest plant they have of the variety you ordered. Unlike RU, who I think start most of their cuttings after the first flush, Heirloom seems to start them at various times of the year. There's no cause for indignation, since they make clear what they sell. They have a praiseworthy concern with keeping virus to the unavoidable minimum. Generally, roses as tiny "bands" are more appropriate for the Deep South and West Coast than for areas with shorter growing seasons and winter damage. But if you choose vigorous varieties or winter-hardy varieties, they can make decent sized plants pretty quickly in the East. My Heirloom roses have been successful even when planted directly in the garden (with a tripod of stakes to prevent accidental trampling).

I know this may sound pretty stupid, but it actually seems to work. If you are dealing with a potted plant with a running bamboo, one of the ways to help minimize culms aborting would be to rotate the pot every few days so that the shoots on the south facing end don't get to hog all the energy, aborting all the less developed ones on the north side. If you're dealing with an in-ground bamboo, you might be able to activate where you want your bamboos to shoot with heat cables, but I wouldn't go through the trouble of setting it up.

Kristi, Is Joseph's Coat the brown/pink/green ground cover you gave me? Whatever you gave me is doing really well under my big plumeria. But I've wondered what it is because I mentioned Joseph's Coat on another thread as a nice easy groundcover, and someone said it's got a succulent-like stem and needs a lot of water. That's definitely not what I have from you. And I thought walking iris needed shade? I've got mine in pretty deep shade because that's what I read, but they haven't bloomed yet. Hmmm. And Lori, If the Joseph's Coat that Kristi mentions is the one she gave me, it's great under the Plumie because it's mostly brown/green mottled in summer, which is fine when I have other things blooming and the yard is so lush. It keeps weeds down in the summer, which is fabulous. But it's a show-stopper in the winter, with wonderful splashes of bright pink. I've wondered if its color changes when the plumie drops its leaves and it gets more sun, though my plumie doesn't throw a lot of shade at the moment. Might be a water issue. I don't irrigate. Plus, because it stays low, your amarylis can poke through it and above it, I think. Mine (from some little cuttings and babies pulled up in Kristi's yard) has stayed six to eight inches tall, and slowly spread, just like I wanted it to. That way, you would avoid having to dig each fall around those bulbs, and risk damaging them. And it seems to have really shallow roots, just down into the mulch, so it seems to me it wouldn't compete much for nutrients with your amarylis. Hmmm. Now I'm thinking of putting some amarylis in there. Susannah