Smoking the chain ruin it. IMO Normally no, unless the user coninues to force the chain through the logs dull. Eventually it won't cut just lay their and smoke and even then it can usually be resharpen providing no teeth broke off. This IMO is usually when teeth get broken off or hit metal in the wood. IMO Teeth can be brought back to life usually with elect. chain saw sharpener or dermal with the rotory chain saw files are the quickest way, but if you grind too much you teeth will be gone before you know it. I dress them up with file afterwords fine tuning the angle for maximum sharpness. My woodshark chain are usually ground down so much they will eventually break off. I can tell when I don't do it right the saw wants to cut crooked through the log or bigger limb. Fine sand Or dirt will of course as you said dull the chain quickly and wear the bar grooves where the chain tracks ride if continuelly ran in those conditions. Just be ready to sharpen the chain, clean the bar more often. Probably two or three times during tank full of gas if wood is extremely dirty. For every tank of gas I dress the chain teeth three or four swips and when done I clean the saw up (this includes removing the bar and chain, for thorough clean of all the parts and clutch area. sharpen the chain of course, cleaning the gooves and oil feeder holes on the bar, readjust the chain) now it ready when I need it again and I know I won't be delayed cause I left the saw dirty and dull. Just common sence information that I do that keeps my equipment in top shape and ready for the next job. Cool morning up hear and I am caught up so that's why the Loooong post!!! smile

I have the same problem! It's so frustrating. We 104 year old white pine floors that we refinished and coated with Bona. A sealer and two coats. We used a sealer and two coats on the Doug fir floors elsewhere in our house and they are VERY smooth, the floor is like one continuum. We refinished maple floors in our former home - no problem there. The oak has tons of grain rise. So so bumpy. I thought it might be due to a) the large-ish gaps between most of the boards - the poly got thinned out as it sank into the holes and b) short cure time of the sealer since the weather was cool and damp. I lightly sanded between the coats of poly. Our plan is to buff, recoat and repete. Do you guys think the rentalable buffer would sand it down enough?

My husband and I recently relocated from Indiana to Florida. We installed LVP in our Indiana home prior to selling. With so many different types of flooring (hardwood being one) we wanted a co-hesive look for the 1968 home prior to putting it on the market. We used floating as to not damage the existing hardwoods should the new owner choose to refinish. When we moved to Florida the home we bought had old carpet, it was a no brainer on our part to replace the carpet with LVP due to humidity issues is Florida. We used the same brand just a lighter shade in our very large greatroom, dining, kitchen and guest bath areas. LVP is easy to clean, wears well with our two dogs, stays cool and provides a great waterproof surface when coming in from the pool. It's affordable and relatively easy to install for any DIYer with some experience in home remodel. We get compliments all the time and visitors have to reach down and touch the floor as they believe it is hardwood. I am sold on the product.

A "wipe on" product is going to be temporary. Why? Because it is a polish. Like the old fashioned wax polishes grandma used to use on her linoleum, today's "wood polishes" (Like Restore) are a 6 months "fix". And then they look worse than before the application. So what to do? Add more of course! And then 6 months later, the floors look EVEN WORSE! Grrrrr! What to do? What to do? The best thing to do right now is either A) do a buff and coat (like the painter suggested) and give yourself another 10 years with a great looking floor or do nothing and live with it for another 7 - 10 years. I'm worried the dull areas are the beginnings of "wear through". If I'm right, a buff and coat is the BEST option. Anything other than that, could complicate things in the long run (7-10 years from now when the floors MUST be refinished). Some photos of the "dull" areas would be appreciated. These are the areas that are the problem areas and could be the indication that the floors need a full sand/refinish sooner rather than later.