I have a very similar design happening, large format tiles, curbless with trench drain, floating vanity etc. I am very close to the glass install. Curious about your glass install. How is it secured so that it does not wobble? Floor to ceiling, wall brace, or? I am considering a panel about 72" high by 54" long, the length of the shower, fixed to the wall and secured to the floor without screws because of danger of puncturing membrane. Panel would be stabilized by a return panel 8-12" across the shower opening. We were going to try it first without a door. Thanks.

I finally got my building permit! The contractor (a very good friend of mine) convinced me to go with stick construction instead of metal because of the additional cost. I was also told that heavier gauge metal studs are no better in sound insulation than standard wood studs. Not sure if there is much truth to that. Currently, our exterior walls will consist of 5/8" QuietRock (model 525) drywall on 2 x 4 wood studs, 1/2" plywood w/waterproof membrane (Tyvek or similar) and standard fiberglass insulation in between. Attached to the exterior plywood are 1 x 4 wood furring strips and I plan to attach 1/4" thick 4 x 8 foot HardiPanels to the wood furring strips. The HardiPanels will not be placed butt to each other but will rather have a space of approx 5/8". This is to create a "grid" pattern to the exterior wall. My goal is to build a modern, minimalist home. So essentially, (from the outside in) I have 1/4" HardiPanel concrete board, 1/2" plywood sheet, 2 x 4 stud and 5/8" QuietRock on one wall. Would anyone have any idea what the STC rating of such an assembly would be? I've been told by a local dealer of QuietRock that I should look into the "triple leaf" effect and that spacing the HardiPanel away from the plywood could cause the STC rating of the wall assembly to drop as a result of this phenomena. My reasoning would be that placing the 1/4" HardiPanel 3/4" away from the plywood would increase the STC rating since we are adding a third but very small airgap. Keep in mind, however, that the HardiPanel assembly is not completely sealed and air/sound tight because I am spacing each panel away from each other by roughly 5/8". The other options I was looking at was going with 2 sheets of standard 5/8" drywall and GreenGlue between. I have heard that this assembly would reduce low frequency penetration into the home much better than one sheet of QuietRock 525. Is this true? And another facade option would be to go with stucco so instead of a 1/4" sheet of HardiPanel and 5/8" "air space", I would have densglass, a cementitious coat and the stucco coat on top. I'm not sure if this would provide a better STC than spacing 1/4" HardiPanel away from the plywood but I'm assuming it would. If anyone can chime in on this I'd really appreciate it. For the windows, I am looking closely at Migard's Quietline product. I may just use these windows for the bedroom windows (because of cost) and other windows in the home where people are not so sensitive to noise would likely be a standard double pane windows with thicker laminated (one pane) panes of glass (to achieve at least a 35 STC). Is this a good idea? And is it true that vinyl windows are a better sound insulator than aluminum? Everyone I talked to here says that vinyl is superior to aluminum for soundproofing but I've found some information online to the contrary. My concern with the vinyl is that it is only available in white and an off-white "tan" color, both of which won't match the modern exterior of my building. What would my options be if I went with vinyl but didn't want those frame colors? Regarding flooring, the building is 3 stories high (garage at bottom, kitchen/living second and bedrooms third) I am looking at standard TJI for the floor between the bedroom and kitchen/living area but standard 12" joists for the kitchen/living floor (garage below) and the roof (nobody above). I'm trying to achieve the best "STC per buck". The QuietRock product is NOT cheap - about $60 per 4 x 8 sheet. I'm willing to incorporate other sound proofing techniques/materials as long as the price is reasonable. Heavier insulation may be one of those options. Any advice is much appreciated!

Brickeyee & Inox: you're both right! Inox, that is your friend's job description - nothing personal seemed intended. You have to admit, your initial response didn't address him as a friend of yours that happened to hold this position. (It sounded like you called the university & asked a stranger). Brickeyee's response was to that situation, I think, which is logical. However, knowing now that he's a friend of yours, his answer gets more validation than that of someone protecting their employer & their own job! :-) The $30 price seems surprisingly reasonable, even w/the additional filter/cartridge cost. I intend to buy it soon, AND use Brickeyee's mask alternative for current project. To the other concerns about childrens safety... Here it is, (I didn't want to "go here"). My oldest son is a "special needs" child & is homeschooled for that reason. For same reason, has frequent check-ups, where I keep his Dr. up-to-date on house situation & projects. (In the form of "conversation", but we both know its to keep him current on any issues both kids may need tested for. Dr asks "so, what are you working on these days", & I tell him, we discuss potential issues). So, sincerely, I have that covered! Ok? :-). It's just, when you mention "homeschooling" or "special needs", people start acting differently. I've been there, & wanted to avoid it here - just be an owner of an old house and a mom. :-) SL

worthy !! plz need more advice now you know I'm sort of clueless at this. I'm reading LOTS of articles on this. all say different things where you live. just to make it clear on me. I live in San Jose,CA area. no freeze, very little humidity. OLD cottage built 1930's has eh, some rotted wood, some termites (EVERY home here does), no varmints under the house. neighbors get skunks YUCK. foundation around perimeter is cement and up to above dirt grade, well thats a given. it is a rental (so no heavy money put into this, just want it to last with low maintenance) landlord very very cool with me, just likes to do things RIGHT. -he's anal like me and a contractor (with many licenses ) who's very busy so I do the dirty work. house has no insulation except blown in the attic,not covering any k&t. wish more could go up there, but have to closely look into that. just put in that new style batts, ultra soft touch shredded denim -no way I could put in fiberglass, the joists are literally touching my face in areas) there is an old floor furnace down there (shockingly they recently stopped making them LOL--hate the thing) it is vented with 4 vents. house is approx 30x30' at most. cellar doors open to go down to crawl space, able to stand and walk about the area of 8x10'. since insulating, the place stinks of the stuff (expected) and can also smell thru the vents.(always smelled a bit "musty". remember I just finished putting it all in there the other day (took about 7 days total - 6+ hrs per day so you can see it is thin crawl space. no k&t under house. small holes were filled with expanding foam. oh and one more thing, this house is grandfathered, so not required to be like "new" up to code in certain not redone areas-obviously. it is with whatever gets fixed. my landlord is GOOD! He has not tried the new denim expensive batts and wondered if I looked into them (which I did) so............. need honest opinion what else to do -( I know you've already said stuff, but I am getting different answers-at least I'm stupid to read into them. **help** and I'm not trying to be nosey, but since you know codes etc so well, I'm assuming you are a contractor ,or ?? by trade. so plz help me so I can talk to him. plzzzzzz I'm waiting to do anything else before I get some details what and why from you. (and others!) THANK you soooo much for your knowledge !! cindy I do plan to live here till I die! -only 53. :) (in less than 2 weeks ) feel like 29!