Yes, you can, and you can harvest green onions from them all winter long, and next summer they should set large bulbs for you. But I have to caution you, I tried seeding some onions this spring, and I Didn't get a single sprout to come up from the onion seed, So I'm cautious to direct seed onions again (like I might've needed to start them in flats). I only mention it because I remember the feeling I had when my two rows didn't come up at all, and I seeded them somewhat thickly. What I mean to say is, check and double check how to sow the seeds, because I followed the package directions and got squat. Hopefully someone else on here knows the tricks of onion seeding.

I live in michigans upper peninsula and have a lot of wild leeks we eat them every year they grow all over our property.not sure how to get the seeds at the right time but definetly see them come end off july and aug.we have a very short growing season so I no there early leeks I eat the bulbs and also cook the leaves with alittle bacon like greens.mmmm just thinking about it makes my mouth water well I will help u out if interestedor if posable I seen a list of your seeds not sure what would grow good her I do have a garden with my two young girls and we usualy get our plants from a local green house.

Lots of choices in yellow red or white, but they all need to be short day onions for spring harvest. March is the earliest I have seen, but that is in south Georgia. Here in Augusta, May is about the best I can do. From seed in September, Plants in November- December. I have good results with Red Grano, White Granex, and yellow Granex. They are not exhibition onions but reach a good size. These are the varieties currently approved for growing in the 20 county area of Georgia approved for "Vidalia' onions. all of course are yellow Granex types. 19013 Sapelo Sweet (DPS 1039) Granex 33 Pegasus Sweet Vidalia SRO 1001 (RCX 5195-1) (Sweet Caroline) SRO 1000 (RCX 6043) (Caramelo) Savannah Sweets SSC 6372 F1 (Honeycomb) Sugar Belle F1 (SSC 6371 F1) Cyclops (XP 6695) Sweet Melody (RCS 1938) Georgia Boy (DPS 1032) Mr. Buck (DPS 1033) Ohoopee Sweet (DPS 1024) Nirvana (RCS 1027) EX 075 92000 (Century) Granex Yellow PRR 99C 50992 (XON-202Y) (Sweet Jasper) XON-203Y (01ZG 5034) (Sweet Harvest) Miss Megan (DPSX 1290) Honeybee (SSC33076) WI-129 FS-2005 XP 07542007 XON-403X HSX-61304 Yellow Granex 15082 This fall I am trying Pinot Rouge for a red and Golden Grande (yellow).

Yellow multipliers will do well enough spring planted. Plant shallow; so that the noses definitely stick out. Kelly's Green Mountain whites do very well spring planted. IIRC that is how he does it himself, and last summer that worked very well for me, too. The nests were small but the individual bulbs were larger in general for the green mountain than for the yellow multipliers. To the best of my knowledge relatives, for whom a strain of yellow multpliers was a family heirloom, always spring planted with never a bolt. Those I fall planted last year had a single half hearted bolt, which I pinched out. I have not had to take any special care of stored bulbs yet, beyond making sure to get a good cure, right after digging them and then stay dry. I find they can be stored at very close to room temperature in fact, for both the yellows and the Green Mountains. That would be mid to low 60s at that end of my kitchen- I don't keep it very warm over there toward the back door. BUT I don't do anything special beyond braiding them, and I think those braids would hold very nearly as well just hanging in the kitchen where one could reach from the counter to pick whatever was needed. In fact I have seen that done in kitchens somewhat warmer than mine with no sprouting. That would be the yellows, but this is the second winter that I have been treating my Green Mountains exactly like the yellows and I do not see any difference this year either. Mid summer planting for the following year's harvest is intriguing. You get the nest divisions this fall and next spring they hopefully will size up, or maybe you can dig them very early next spring and split them out to individual plants with more room to size up... Anybody else ever tried that. The one time I tried spring divisions, I lost a goodly portion of the resulting divisions, though not all of them. When I tried that under lights with garlic and multipliers, the garlics split out well enough but the multipliers didn't split up nearly as well and were difficult to separate. The resulting divsions did not do so good however, which I suspect had more to do with failure to control the lights properly as anything, daylength probably was more critical than I allowed for.