Help-LED grow lights to support bird of paradise moved inside?
Pam Fisher
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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aruzinsky
8 years agoPam Fisher
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Bird of Paradise Leaf
Comments (12)Jasdip, Birds need sun. One of my plant books has a section that describe 'x' problems, disease/sunburn/insects) and includes pictures of leaves or entire plant, after attack of 'x' problems. The leaves on your Bird do not look sunburned. One section of the book says: Plants are more susceptible to sunburn when they are allowed to dry out because the normal cooling effect that results when water evaporates from leaves is reduced. Did the brown start on leaf edges spreading to the center? There are many possilities including, deficiency diseases, salt damage, bacteria and disease, frost and gas damage. Who knows what was used on your Birds' leaves and soil..Too many/various chemicals cause damage..One reason I stick with home-made insecticide remedies.. :) For the time, remove marred leaves. Keep your Bird in sun. Since you got it at Sam's, who knows how long they had it sitting under artificial light..Then, to bring it home, and place in a south window. Even though Birds are sun-loving plants, like any other, it needs to acclimate to higher light conditions. Even Cactus burn! Both my birds are now in the green house..meaning, they get as much natural sun as possible. But both Birds lived in the house prior to getting a green house. South windows. Once they halted growth, in fall, neither were fertilized and water was decreased. In summer, they're placed outdoors in full/direct sun..no sunburn..When they lived in the house, once they were taken outdoors, both were placed under a tree, then gradually into brighter light. I'd remove the leaves, or at least trim, but let's say there is a bacterial disease..ridding the entire leaf will lessen chances of spreading.. Have you sprayed any chemicals since bringing home? Toni...See MoreQuestions on Bird of Paradise
Comments (41)Hi Toni Sorry I have no idea what kind they are. The sticker on the pot just says Asst. Fancy and I doubt thats the type. LOL I don't have a balcony for them. I just play musical spots. I move them from their corner over to the window. Luckily the sun rises and sets on my side so they can get sun all day. After two or three days of that its back to the corner for indirect light and an organized livingroom. So far so good. In the winter the sun will be lower so I won't have to move them so far the sun usually comes all they way across teh room. I've one sprout that was coming out when I brought it that is fully out and ready to start uncurling and another small new one from another one. They do grow fast!...See MoreKilling a Bird of Paradise?
Comments (39)Step by step instructions for removing large bird of paradise. Tools needed: pic-axe, chain saw, recipical saw (with longest blades you can get), spade shovel with strong handle, 4' 4x4 pressure treated post, come-along, 1' of heavy duty metal chain with stong "S" link for connecting chain ends together. Instructions: Step#1. Use chain saw to cut plant stems down to about a foot above the ground. Step#2. Dig around and under root ball of plant as much as possible. Step#3. Starting on an outer side of the plant that has at least a 5 feet of clearance; cut down and around a section of the plant / root ball (not too big about 1') with reciprocal saw. Step#4. Put the 4x4 post down in the ground about 4' from plant section in step#3 with a slight angle away from the plant leave about 1' above ground and pack dirt tightly. Step#5. Put chain around exposed 4x4 post, wrap section of plant to be removed with cable end of come-along, connect other end of come-along to chain and ratchet come-along to put pressure on plant section to be removed. Step#6, pic-axe to seperate root ball section or maybe use shovel; add come-along pressure as needed. Use care when working with come-along cable under tension. I used this method yestetday and its working good for me, I'm about a fouth of the way done. My back is sore, for these plants are hard a heck to remove; just know your limitations and be safe. Also try not to cut into the dirt with chain saw, it will dull the chain, but for the cost of a chain verses a chiropractor and pain, I'm using chain saw down deep. Hope this helps Eddie K. Palm Bay, Fl....See MoreBrown Patches on Strelitzia (Bird of Paradise)
Comments (11)I don’t use much fertilizer so I can exclude chemical burn. Did you know your plants can suffer from fertilizer burn, the malady, even if you have never fertilized? Solutions with a low concentration of dissolved solids/salts move to an area with a higher concentration of dissolved solids until isotonicity (balance) is reached. You might remember the process of osmosis from biology. Water in the soil solution normally moves into cells through the semi-permeable cell membrane until the level of solutes in bound water (water inside of the cells) is the same as the level of solutes in the soil solution. The technical name for fertilizer burn is plasmolysis, and it occurs when the level of dissolved solids in the soil solution rises to a point higher than the level of solutes in bound water (water inside of cell walls). Under this condition, water no longer moves freely into plants through the root cell membrane; rather, it moves out of cells into the soil solution in the same way that curing salt pulls moisture from ham or bacon. As cells shrink due to dehydration, plasmalemma is torn from cell walls, destroying cells. If you're not flushing the soil with regularity, dissolved solids from tapwater accumulate in the soil until osmosis is severely impaired, at which time the plant starts to exhibit symptoms of drought stress, even if the soil is awash with a sea of plenty. My guess is, you're over-watering. Over-watering = a reduction in the oxygen required for roots to function normally = impaired root function = the plant's inability to move water efficiently = drought stress and accompanying symptoms, which include spoiled foliage as seen in the images you provided. Heat stress might also be in play, as the potential for heat stress increases as respiration decreases. I would A) start using a "tell" to "tell" you when it's time to water (see below), B) flush the soil thoroughly the next time you're sure the plant needs water (see below), and start the plant on a more appropriate fertilizer, like Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 and see how it goes. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Flushing Soils When you water, you should be able to flush planting's soil to eliminate the potentiality of salts from fertilizers and tapwater accumulating in the soil, thereby limiting the plant's ability to take up water and the nutrients dissolved in the water. If you think you shouldn't flush the soil during your regular water applications for fear the soil will remain saturated for a lengthy period, limiting root function or worse, you should consider a different soil or take steps to reduce the amount of excess water your soil can hold. By whatever means necessary, getting to the point you can water correctly is going to make a very big difference in the opportunity to realize as much of it's genetic potential as possible. Once you can water correctly, you no longer have to do battle with a water-retentive medium over control of your plant's vitality. There are several methods of limiting how much water your planting can hold, all but 1 or 2 are completely passive, requiring no effort on your part other than set-up, which is monkey easy. I can help if you have interest in that, I'm continually improving my proficiency at monkey easy tasks. To flush the soil of a planting: Water with room temperature water until the soil is completely saturated. Allow the planting to rest for 15 minutes to an hour to allow as much of the salt accumulation as possible to go into solution, then pour a volume of room temp water equal to at least 10X the volume of the pot the plant is in slowly through the soil. This will remove most of any accumulation of offending salts and resolve any skewing of nutrient ratios. It's a good idea, no matter what time of year, to fertilize most plants immediately after flushing the soil. Try to be sure you're using a fertilizer that has a ratio as close as possible to the ratio at which the plant uses nutrients. The NPK % listed on fertilizer packaging is not its ratio. 7-7-7 and 14-14-14 are 1:1:1 ratios. 9-3-6, 12-4-8, and 24-8-16, are all 3:1:3 ratios. Container growers should try very hard to avoid use of fertilizers advertised as 'bloom-boosters', or any number with a middle number (Phosphorous) higher than either the first or third numbers (Nitrogen or Potassium). These fertilizers can badly skew nutrient ratios with even the first application). On average, plants use about 6x as much N as P, so there is NO potential for a positive outcome when supplying many times as much P as the plant requires. I, and a large number of other members, use Dyna-Gro's Foliage Pro 9-3-6. It's designed to closely mimic the uptake ratio of the average plant, and has many other attributes not commonly found in other fertilizers. It also has ALL of the nutrients essential to normal growth. Summarized, it makes fertilizing as easy as it can be, and from 1 container. BTW - when you water, are you allowing the plant to sit in the effluent that would normally exit the pot if it had a drain hole? and, Does your home have an ionic exchange water softener (the kind you have to regularly recharge with salt? Al...See MorePam Fisher
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