Dry patches in potting soil

8 years ago

Hello, I recently bought this potting soil, which is well-reviewed. However, I planted some Pothos in it that I had recently rooted in water, and the leaves started wilting. I poked my finger into the soil and realized that while the very surface was wet, there were bone-dry spots underneath. Scratching back the top layer would reveal soil so dry it was releasing dust into the air.

I ran the hose over the whole pot, for a few minutes, really drenching it. Even so, I could push pack the top soil to reveal bone dry dirt underneath!

I then took the whole pot and submerged it in a 5 gallon bucket of water. The bucket filled with dirt particles and the water started bubbling up over the top of the pot -- overturning clumps of dirt that were still bone dry!!

This is very frustrating because I often have plants that look like victims of uneven watering. They will appear to show signs of under-watering, and then when I water them, act like they have root rot. I worry that water is just finding its way through rivulets in the soil, bypassing some roots entirely.

I recently separated an overgrown peace lily and now one of the smaller plants droops in places, even when the soil seems soggy. I'm hesitant to upturn the plant to inspect it, since it's still adjusting. Anyway, I wonder if any of you have had this problem, and what I should do about it.

On a similar note, when I try to make my own potting soil with peat moss, compost and perlite, after a few thorough waterings all the Perlite appears to float to the top, which makes me think the bottom of the pot is now turning to mud.

Anyway, any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Featured Answer

rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

8 years ago

Before using your potting mix...of any brand....pour the amount that you will need into a bucket or, in my case, a wheelbarrow. Mix it with your hands to pulverize any large, hard 'clods' of peat or coir that may be present.

Then begin to moisten the medium, a little bit at a time, mixing the water in thoroughly with each addition of water. You can also add a few drops of liquid soap to the water before mixing it with the medium.

Your goal is to barely moisten the mix, but to break the ionic bonds that cause the hydrophobic characteristic exhibited by a bone dry mix of peat or coir. Your medium may not even feel moist, just cool.

I use a pre-packaged potting medium (Fafard Professional Heavyweight mixes) that has a wetting agent added during the processing. Effortless, carefree potting, yay!

After the fact, threebyfive, you can try adding a few drops of liquid soap to warm water the next time you water to see if that helps hydrate those dry pockets.

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Comments (6)

jane__ny
8 years ago
Where do you live? What are you growing? Inside outside? What potting mix are you using?

I typically soak wood chips before mixing into the potting mix. Sometimes I soak them for a week. It helps them hold moisture. New bark which is dry will shed water. I mix some peaty potting soil, wood chips and perlite together. All is wetted down before potting anything.

It sounds like you are a good gardener. Good common sense!

Putting the whole pot in a bucket of water was the smart thing to do. You might have to do it a few times before the chips and soil get wet enough to hold some water.

Good growing!

Jane
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garyfla_gw
8 years ago
Hi

As jane said it would help to know some details ?? I grow mostly in pots but outdoors and during summer it rains almost everyday so have more of the opposite problem. I use a very simple mix of either fine chips and black cow or top soil. . i don't use peat ,perlite because of the reasons you mentioned I store my materials outdoors in tubs so generally they are moist before starting so don't think a soak is necessary in my case.

I do water heavily after potting to eliminate air pockets and to be sure every part is moist as well as a check to be sure it's draining.

I find peat very difficult to work with replacing with coir though in most cases don't think it's necessary though still using it on gesneriads that need constant moisture but these are kept indoors so have complete control of water . Anyway good luck with learning to work with peat!! gary
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laticauda
8 years ago
Shaklees Basic H is good for breaking water tension in water without a lot of suds or fragrances and stuff.

It's just something I have and use, not an endorsement....unless they wanna pay me? I think that would be against forum rules, so no.
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
3 x 5 - Easy way: get a bucket or tub whose volume is at least twice that of the pot you're going to fill. Add about half as much soil as you think you'll need for the planting project. Keep adding water and stirring until it's almost muddy, then add as much dry soil as you think you'll need to increase the volume to that which you'll need, and stir some more. At this point (3 minutes?), you can plant in it. If there is still some portions of dry soil, diffusion of water vapor from the moist soil particles into the dry particles will quickly break any hydrophobic tendencies of the dry particles.

If you decide you want to use a wetting agent for the soil, it's best to use a product specific to that purpose. Roots are very sensitive to detergents. If a detergent solution makes its way into the soil, the effect on roots is immediate. Because one of the main function of roots is to absorb water and nutrients dissolved in water, they lack the waxy protective coating that leaves employ. Detergent solution in contact with root cells can quickly dissolve the lipid membrane surrounding cells, killing the cells and inhibiting water/ nutrient uptake - probably not desirable. Hair cells growing as appendages off larger roots do the lion’s share of assimilating water and nutrients, and these very delicate cells would be the first casualty of any detergent in the root zone.

This soil is going to be VERY water-retentive, and that's something that can prove frustrating to even seasoned growers. Once you get the hydrophobic condition remedied, you'll be able to water normally. If you can't water to beyond the saturation point so you're flushing the soil when you water without having to worry the soil will remain soggy for so long it rots root or seriously impedes root function, you might want to think about using or making something that allows you to water correctly.

Al
threebyfive thanked tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
threebyfive
Original Author
8 years ago
Wow, what a great response. Thanks so much, everyone.

jane__ny, I'm in the midwest and I'm growing inside. I didn't add any wood chips but I will keep that trick in mind.

garyfla_gw, thanks for the tips. I think I need to start saturating soil to remove air pockets. Maybe I will add little bits of soil and wet as I go along.

rhizo_1, I'll have to remember that about soap.

tapla, Thanks. I will start prepping my soil before adding plants.

Thanks everyone for your tips! I will let you know how it all turns out.
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Dry patches in potting soil

rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Comments (6)

jane__ny

garyfla_gw

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laticauda

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

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Dry patches in potting soil

rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

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jane__ny

garyfla_gw

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laticauda

tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)

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