Hmmmm....several statements here are contrary to my experience :-) First, I'd question the relative hardiness of Prunus lusitanica versus laurocerasus. Hillier is the source that makes the claim for greater hardiness of Portuguese laurel, however most other sources reverse that opinion. Being a UK source, I'd approach Hillier's assessment with caution. Zone 6 (or lower, depending on specific cultivar - 'Zabeliana' and 'Schipkaensis' are usually listed to 5) for the English laurel but only zone 7 for the Portuguese. Trialing of Portuguese laurel in several areas of this country where English grows readily have proven to produce unsatisfactory results. And Ink, FWIW, English laurel hedges are ubiquitous here. And most are pruned/sheared regularly to keep them within reasonable bounds. Because of the large, broad foliage, a freshly sheared hedge does look a little whacked but the ends do not brown nor do the cut leaves die. They just look 'cut' until new growth obscures them. This many be more of a climate/locational factor, though. Here's an image of a well-maintained, decent looking English laurel hedge : Regardless of these issues, unless you are willing to devote significant routine maintenance to either of these choices, they will outgrow the space allotted in due course. There are other alternatives you could consider. Choices of Japanese holly (Ilex crenata - faster growing than box) or Euonymus japonicus 'Green Spire' would fit the bill and without the need for the same extensive maintenance the laurels require. What kind of privet? Evergreen forms (L. sinense and japonicum) are rapidly becoming invasive headaches in many parts of the east coast and common privet, Ligustrum vulgare, is a weedy looking plant that is on the New England Atlas of Invasive Plants as well as that of the US Forest Service. I wouldn't hesitate to remove them.

As to how far apart they should be planted, using the species name for the specific privet you are getting (I see the Arbor day site says Ligustrum x ibolium), you should be able to find the mature size of the plant on the internet. Using that to determine how far apart; as an example, if the mature size is 6 feet wide, then plant them six feet apart (or closer if you want a tighter hedge sooner but they will crowded themselves eventually). Looks like Arbor Day says the plants will be 1 to 2 feet tall upon delivery and mature spread according to them is 4-6 feet. Another site says 6-8 feet wide and "this hybrid is a cross between L. ovalifolium and L. obtusifolium" (for those that are interested in the parentage). Ligustrum obtusifolium has some reported invasive tendencies in some northern states as noted here. Here is a link that might be useful: Mobot site with height and width numbers

I also agree. Despite denial, when they mature (and for privet that doesn't take long) there will be distribution whether on your ground or somebody else's. It's a cheap hedge to put in so it's tempting, but there are a lot better alternatives and if you buy in bulk, you can get inexpensive starts much better suited to your locale and needs. Our soil and water conservation districts offer packets of such starts every year and I'm talking about availability of quantities in the hundreds very economically. While your at it, there are also a lot of shrubs who offer suitable habitat and food. Viburnums might be an option. Witch hazels. I have used blue and dwarf arctic willows occasionally and was please with the results. The dwarf arctic willows should top out about five to six feet and are tolerant of most any situation you can put them in. They'll get as full as they are tall, and are as full on the bottom as top. Standard or blue arctic willows get larger. Three to five years translates to fast growing, btw. Hey, also have had wonderful luck with deutia gracilis. It has the advantage of gorgeous blossoms as well. There are also dogwoods who would fill the bill.

Greekisme, Our neighbors cut down the pine trees between us last year. I could have cried! We have a magnificent view of each other's lives now, and since we're on the downhill side, there's NOTHING we can plant to totally block the view without having it take up half the yard at it's mature size. But, sometimes a little distraction is worth a large hedge - it depends on how MUCH privacy you want. We planted a good-sized dogwood tree a little way out from our picture window; when you look out, it draws the eye down and into the yard instead of up to the neighbor's deck and kitchen. A mixed/tapestry hedge might be more of a visual draw for you than a single-species hedge. On the other hand, a monochromatic hedge is a great foil for lower planting in front of it. In my part of central NY (zone 5/borderline 4) I've seen hedges from arborvitae (a.k.a. "deer candy), lilacs (very effective, but also quite wide unless you look for a more upright-growing cultivar - there are some), privet (a maintenance nightmare - pruning, pruning, pruning to keep any decent shape), burning bush (nice and thick, only needs pruning if you really want to keep it to a certain width - even the "dwarf" euonymus alatus 'Compactus' ones want to be 6 feet tall), yew (more deer candy), and rose of sharon (the double-flowered ones are a pain when it rains - they bend over and the bush gets deformed by the weight of the wet flowers, so the single ones are MUCH better). There's my two cents - good luck regaining your privacy!! Laurelin