Tilling up a sod = grass the tiller wants walk on top like run away. The point dig in as drag and help on runaways. Here link to point on drag bar. I use sweet on mind that works good to, but haveto buy different pieces so mount sweet on this first part of hiller furrow attachment. Here is a link that might be useful: sod point This post was edited by gator_rider2 on Thu, Jan 31, 13 at 18:09

I just checked the manual. I guess I should get my own act together because I haven't done most of the suggested lubes. I have certainly greased the belt Block adjuster and the two heavy vertical rods that the whole engine assembly slides up and down on for belt tension. I don't see any specific grease indicated. You may need to remove the rods if they are really messed up. Make sure you mark/determine the proper height. But then one is supposed to oil every moving bar connection and shaft. If you suspect that transmission oil has leaked out, you will need to fill it with either 90 or 140wt transmission oil via the hole under the T handle.

Price is in the eye of the beholder. They probably cost $1000 new. The models made after about 1980 had a removable rear tine section and a PTO lever on the left side near the driveshaft. Attachments were available. Look for the ends of the tines to be flat. Worn tines develop a tapered sharp edge. The lever that goes from drive, down, and reverse, up and neutral moves the engine up and down. The iron casting to which the engine is mounted moves along two steel rods, vertical. There might be some slop here, but not too much is OK. Look at the area where the tines are bolted. There are oil seals. Look for excessive seepage behind the bolt and also for excessive movement sideways in the tines that would indicated a seal leak, loss of lubricant, or a worn tine bearing.

To install tubes in the tires, you'll have to break the side-walls away from the rims. to do this, it can be done with large C-clamps, by tightening the clamp against both side walls, and turning it in until they pull away from the rims. To get it all the way off, lubricate the tire bead and rim with oil or grease, and carefully pry the tire off the rim. After cleaning and priming/ painting the inside of the rim, and its' dry, lube the inner bead of the tire, and force it onto the rim, using a rubber hammer. Now, with the one bead inside the rim, and the other bead not, spread the tire out and stuff the inner tube inside, spreading it out all around the rim. Stick the valve out thru its hole, and tie a string to it. Before installing the tube, you should pump the tube up enough to get the wrinkles out of it, then let the air back out of it!, and install it, as above. Then, after its inside the tire, carefully get the other bead of the tire onto the rim! Be careful the valve doesn't slip into the rim!(The string) Now, pump the tire up to seat it on the rim, watching that no part of the tube is caught between tire and rim! Then leave the air back out until it has gone down well. Using the rubber hammer, pound on the tire so any wrinkles in the tube will be gone, then reinflate it, and you should be good to go! (With the rim off the machine, we used to bounce it on the pavement) All of the preceding is a tried and perfected method of replacing tires and tubes, as taught to me by The Gulf Oil company service station schools, way back in 1946! We had no fancy tire repair machines, nor tubeless tires, no Flat-fix, Slime, nothing except hard work! HTH: Rustyj