Can this unwatered Schefflera be saved?
mag_ben
8 years ago
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mag_ben
8 years agoRelated Discussions
free Schefflera, worth saving???
Comments (6)My answer would partly depend on what your other three plants are; if they're plants which are prone to getting spider mites anyway, I wouldn't bother with the Scheffleras. Not that it's impossible to eliminate mites on a single plant, but as rhizo_1 says, they travel, and all it takes is for one pregnant female to survive and then you're right back where you started by April. I also agree with rhizo that you're probably best not to try to separate the individual plants, if they've been growing together this long already. If you do decide that you want to try anyway, 60F/16C is warm enough, but not by a lot, especially if it's windy or if the water out of the hose is very cold, or both. If they were my plants, I'd be more inclined to keep them inside, and just hand-wash both sides of the leaves with paper towels and dishwashing liquid, then rinse them off in the shower (works best if you have a detachable showerhead that you can use to spray the undersides), then hand-wipe with paper towels again, then rinse in the shower again. You don't have to buy anything that you don't probably already have around the house, and there are no weird smells to contend with.[1] This should at least keep the populations manageable, without getting the plants too wet, and in between showerings, you can soap up the leaves every five days or so to catch any newly-hatched mites before they have a chance to reproduce. Whatever you do, you're going to have to work on it consistently, for a few months, and even then, you're still going to need to watch the plants pretty closely for signs of new infestations. So like I said, I'd be more inclined to just skip the whole thing entirely. Scheffleras are common enough that if you really want one, you can get a brand-new, miteless[2] one relatively cheap, and if you don't really want one, then you're better off without any, whether they're free or not. - [1] Although I'm usually fairly smell-tolerant, I have a personal problem with neem oil. Or at least sometimes I do: part of the time, it just smells kinda funny, and the rest of the time it smells like rancid peanut butter that someone has eaten and then thrown up, which makes me mildly nauseous myself. If the smell doesn't bother you or anybody you live with, then yes, it's probably a better way to go than soap and water. And the smell does dissipate within a few days. [2] (In theory.)...See MoreHelp Save This Schefflera!!
Comments (8)To put it more bluntly: It's a tangled mess of death. Luckily, a few of the stems show some life still. "Take cuttings" = Cut the healthy ends off (say, the top 6 inches or so off of each healthy stem) and hopefully you can make new plants with them. (search: schefflera propagation) With the tangled mess of death that will be left behind, repot that. But, as you are doing it, you should prune away whatever is dry and dead... both above AND below the soil line. I say "dry" and dead, but it might instead be mushy and rotten because it's been too wet. Can't tell which it is from pics. I suspect you will get rid of 50% - 75% of what is there now. *EDIT* - Didn't mean to sound harsh. Anyway, you can use a hose to blast away the old spent soil from the roots. Hopefully you will find healthy sections that can be repotted and will produce new growth. Would love it if you were able to post pics....See MoreQuestions - Peperomia, maranta, schefflera
Comments (7)No plant likes to be rootbound. What is necessary for plants to stay alive is for their roots to not rot, which can happen so easily in a pot with dense soils, like ground dirt, or bagged mixes of predominantly tiny particles of peat, (or to simply shrivel from simply never getting any water.) Having very little soil around the roots would make the soil dry more quickly, and for even the most dedicated plant-overwaterers to not rot the roots of their plants. This is not ideal, since most non-cactus plants are stressed by dry conditions, it's just a way of coping with soil that has little air in it when moist. Negative experiences in regard to potting-up, where an undisturbed root ball is placed into a bigger pot with more soil around it, vs. doing a repotting, as described below, can give rise to old wives' tales about plants not liking to be repotted/disturbed. Potting-up a root-bound plant that has roots surrounding the outside root ball often lead to this negative experience because those roots had adapted to accessing oxygen around the outside of the root ball and surrounding them with more dense, soggy-but-airless potting soil will likely lead to suffocation. The reason bonsai masters are able to keep potted entities alive for hundreds of years is because they care for the roots by trimming them and changing the soil. A plant grows from the roots-up, so if the roots are not healthy, gorgeous foliage will decline &/or no flowers can form. When you unpot a plant and find a pancake of roots at the bottom, chopping that off will give roots a chance to grow normally again for a while and will make removing the old soil easier. Roots need oxygen & moisture at the same time to function. Just air = shriveling. Just moisture = suffocation & rotting. Either will cause root death and dessicated foliage because the roots have been unable to deliver moisture. Having to let soil dry, as if ones' tropical jungle plant was a cactus, is an unnecessarily stressful coping mechanism for non-desert dwelling plants in soil without enough oxygen for the roots to stay healthy when it is moist and can lead to premature loss of older leaves and in extreme cases, dry shriveled roots/dead plant. The ability of roots to be able to function properly depends greatly on the soil structure/texture, which can change over time. Potting soil tends to be very dense, mostly peat, with very little air in it. Any kind of organic ingredients decompose into smaller bits over time, and roots fill air spaces over time as they grow through soil. Replacing soil periodically is usually necessary to keep plants healthy because of these reasons. A more porous, chunky, airy soil (like cactus/palm, if one is buying bagged,) can have more air in it even when it is moist because there is space between the particles. When there are tiny particles of any kind in a pot, such as peat, sand, silt, clay, they filter into all of the tiny spaces in a pot, eliminating the air. "Overwatering" is the label and manifestation when roots have suffocated and/or rotted, combo of both. Over time, organic bits decompose into smaller bits, so even the "best" soil, if it has organic components, will need to be replaced when this happens. The speed at which this happens depends on many variables, but on average, about 1-3 years. More details: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1490818/good-growing-practices-an-overview-for-beginners?n=175...See MoreHELP! Can I save an un-watered potted tree?
Comments (9)As someone who grows a lot of trees in containers and in a climate that never gets very hot in summer nor too cold in winter but is also very dry during most of the growing season, it is my experience that containerized trees that go with out water for too long - to the point were all the leaves shrivel, brown and dry - do not recover. And that can be just a day or two, where the container media dries completely. Much more forgiving if in the ground but in a container, one strike and you are out. Hence my comment that I wouldn't hold out much hope. Flexibility in the stems or even some green showing under the bark is not a good indication of viability either. Shrubs and trees can hold a lot of moisture in their tissue for an extended time........even when completely dead. It is the drying out of the root system that will be the determining factor and roots too long without water will die off and the tree/shrub will follow shortly....See MoreRhamel (aka teengardener1888)
8 years agomag_ben
8 years agoRhamel (aka teengardener1888)
8 years agoRhamel (aka teengardener1888)
8 years agoMsGreenFinger GW
8 years agomag_ben
8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agomag_ben
8 years agozzackey
8 years agomag_ben
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agomag_ben
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agogardenfanatic2003
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years ago
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Rhamel (aka teengardener1888)