Nilaa. In your shoes, needing to reuse your soil, I would buy a single bag of pine bark fines or fine mulch ($3-5) & mix it about 50/50 with your old soil. A little perlite would also likely be in order. It should give you a very serviceable soil for the upcoming growing season. Here is a partial reply I posted to a thread some time ago: "First, plants really aren't particular about what soil is made of. As long as you're willing to stand over your plant & water every 10 minutes, you can grow most plants perfectly well in a bucket of marbles. Mix a little of the proper fertilizers in the water & you're good to go. The plant has all it needs - water, nutrients, air in the root zone, and something to hold it in place. So, if we can grow in marbles, how can a soil fail? Our growing skills fail us more often than our soils fail. We often lack the experience or knowledge to recognize the shortcomings of our soils and to adjust for them. The lower our experience/knowledge levels are, the more nearly perfect should be the soils we grow in, but this is a catch 22 situation because hidden in the inexperience is the inability to even recognize differences between good and bad soil(s). Container soils fail when their structure fails. When we select soils with components that break down quickly or that are so small they find their way into and clog macro-pores, we begin our growing attempts under a handicap. I see anecdotes about reusing soils, even recommendations to do it all over these forums. I don't argue with the practice, but I (very) rarely do it, even when growing flowery annuals, meant only for a single season. Soils don't break down at an even rate. If you assign a soil a life of two years and imagine that the soil goes from perfect to unusable in that time, it's likely it would be fine for the first year, lose about 25% of its suitability in the first half of the second year, and lose the other 75% in the last half of the second year. This is an approximation & is only meant to illustrate the exponential rate at which soils collapse. Soils that are suitable for only a growing season show a similar rate of decline, but at an accelerated rate. When a used soil is mixed with fresh soil after a growing season, the old soil particles are in or about to begin a period of accelerated decay. I choose to turn them into the garden or they find their way to a compost pile. Unless the reasons are economical, I find it difficult to imagine why anyone would add garden soils to container soils. It destroys aeration and usually causes soils to retain too much water for too long. Sand (unless approaching the size of BB's), has the same effect. I don't use compost in soils because of the negative effect on aeration/drainage. The small amount of micro-nutrients provided by compost can be more efficiently added, organically or inorganically, via other vehicles. To boil this all down, a container soil fails when the inverse relationship between aeration/drainage goes awry. When aeration is reduced, soggy soil is the result, and trouble is in the making." Al

We don't replace soil in raised beds because we have the earth below creating movement of water and air in the soil. Raised beds are earth based gardens. Containers are completely disconnected from the earth by virtue of being containerized. The concept that I want you to understand is this: Water doesn't move unless air does. A simple example is a drinking straw in a glass of water. Dip it in and place a finger over the top of the straw. Withdraw the straw and the water doesn't move out of the straw. Remove the finger and the water runs out because now air can enter. In the earth water is constantly moving through the soil and therefore so is air (the earth has no drainage hole where the water exits the system). In a container the water runs down and out the drainage hole and then water movement stops and therefore so does air movement. This is why containers and the earth are so different. In a container we need a coarse mix that allows the free movement of air and water (drains well). In the earth we can get by with tighter soils because water still moves and thus air still moves. A potting mix is only as good as it's particle size. If you purchase a store bought mix it will probably be just fine in the first year, but the organic part of the mix gets broken down by biological activity and weathering. As it is broken down it breaks into smaller and smaller particle sizes and before long the smallest particles which wash to the bottom of the container are getting closer and closer to having clay soil in the container. This holds a lot of water and very little air which plants need. Miracle Grow soil is peat based and peat based soils are generally good for one season and sometimes 2 if they aren't exposed to the elements any longer than necessary. After that they are so collapsed/broken down that they will have an adverse affect on plant performance and should be dumped out into the earth based garden and replaced. For more info, please visit the container gardening forum.

How it looks from my perspective: If the decision to reuse container soils is an economic one, who can disagree with the decision? If you aren't concerned about expense and are willing to go to some minimal extra effort to build a good soil, that is what I would elect to do. Here's why: Container gardeners need to direct primary focus to insuring that the soil they are using will remain able to provide adequate air to roots for the expected life of the planting. Along with the ability of the soil to hold ample air, comes good gas exchange and drainage for rootage. All the other major cultural variables affecting growth are easily manipulated. Water, nutrients, sunlight, and to some degree, temperature can all be controlled easily. Aeration cannot and its consideration is as important as water and light to plant vitality. The breakdown or collapse of soil structure occurs at an exponential rate. If we imagine the usable life of a peat based container soil from a bag, it deteriorates from a reasonably good soil when fresh to unusable after 2 years. It's not unreasonable to expect the soil to lose at least 20-25% of its air holding ability by the end of the first growing season. In the first half of the second growing season, it will lose about another 25% of its air holding ability and in the second half of the second year, near total collapse is likely as the remaining 50% is lost. Though this is an example of an imaginary soil, it is very close to what actually occurs. Another way of saying it is: Even though a soil might be performing acceptably at the end of the first growing season, you should expect a rapidly accelerating collapse in the subsequent year. So, if you use a soil for 1 year and mix it 50/50 with a fresh, similar soil, 50% of the soil will have totally collapsed by the end of the growing season, and the other 50% will have lost about 25% of its ability to hold air. If a soil is not holding enough air, it's holding too much water. Water and air retention vary inversely in soils and when one increases, the other decreases. When soils hold too much water, you have to hope that the plant will use enough water or that enough water evaporates to prevent root rot issues and even minor cases of over-potting can mean terminal misfortune. At risk, I speak out often against the use of compost in container soils. It supplies nearly nothing in nutrients and clogs the soil macro-pores container gardeners should covet. Containers are not gardens and much of what works in the garden can cause difficulties in containers. Additional possible considerations are carry-over of fungal spores, the possibility/probability of insects in various stages (eggs, larvae, etc) and carbonate precipitates from your watering water. A slow soil will also have accumulated fertilizer salts and possibly insecticides that you may have applied and forgotten about last season. I suggest that container soils be turned into the compost pile or garden and fresh soil used in its place unless monetary considerations prohibit. Al

Hi Sarah, welcome to the forum. Please see the FAQ's posted on the main page; I've linked them here at the bottom for your convenience. Most of your questions are answered there. I would recommend you do some research into the benefits of starting most of your veggies indoors versus outdoors. Some veggies do not like to be transplanted, particularly root crops like carrots- which I know you mentioned you planned not to start indoors due to number, but the real reason you wouldn't want to do it is that they'd be darn difficult to transplant; the root itself is the vegetable. You're lucky, you live in a nice warm zone that should have a long growing season, so your veggies should take of quickly outside. You can find pretty much all the info you need online, including which should be started indoors vs. outdoors, best time to sow, growing conditions, etc. I'd recommend either buying or checking out from a library, a good book on vegetable gardening. I have a battered old one that I've used over and over again, and it's well worth it to have at hand. As far as your pots, I think you'll find most here recommend plastic containers; again, see the FAQ. Size wise, you don't want to start too big. Containers the size of the ones you linked to are a good size to start with, and then transplant up to a larger size; or, if you start with something slightly larger, say in the 4 inch range, put several seeds in the container to germinate. Anyway, hope some of that helps, best of luck! Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ