greetings; Sorry for the delay...I have been reviewing several of the (rather dated)investigations I have on conifer seed treatment using bleach as well as supplemental articles available on the internet. My conclusion in this case is that sometimes brevity without further elucidation can be misleading... I also visited some local growers to survey the retail price of cellpack inserts:($1.00 per sheet)and 2.5 inch pots:(05 cents each or 12 for the price of 10).I have found that in many instances the 32cells/sheet separated to 4 cells/with a saucer and draped with plastic wrap is a satisfactory modular set-up for indoor sowing whereby seeds are thinly sowed based upon the genetics and physiology of the cultivar.>Then pricked out to a more suitable cellpack or pot...This set-up also might help reduce cross-contamination of diseased seeds obtained through seed-exchanges.Also I would recommend the booklet on propagation published by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden...(regarding:seeds of dubious hybrid derivatives yielding weak seedlings and so forth... The 2.5 inch pot is one of the industry standards suitable for many outplanting garden situations. By surveying a local garden shop one can determine if more than one seedling/pot is feasible and note the poracity of the media that is used.A 2.5inch pot economizes media ,space, and overall expenditure...(32pots/1020 flat)which can then be halved/ spaced to 18 or less as the crop develops...If a larger size pot is required- that is rather understood... Much of the satifactory results with a 2.5inch pot are based upon timing;knowing the environment you are working with(light quality/duration)temp.growing lean(fertilizer/irrigation); proper fertilizer selection;air circulation and so forth found in any good book on seed propagation... the phytotoxicity of bleach when working with seedlings is from my own experience conferring with a senior grower long ago and reconfirmed by further reading.The information and citations at hand is modified from the original investigations > Nelson,P.V.(1978).Greenhouse Operation and Management;Moody,E.H. and G.E.Smith (1982)Sanitation:Plant Health from Start to Finish.Publ.286.Raleigh,N.C.North Carolina Extension Service:84-100

The brush needs to be tight to do its job. You realy shouldnt have to much creosote buildup after one season, i burn 3-4 cords a year in my epa appliance and i get about a 8oz jar worth of creosote. A link to the photo: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/1598/ If you truly have that much deposit you need to work on your technique a little. If you poke around the link i sent you you will find tons of data. hearth.com seems more geared to woodburning then gardenweb, were most of the threads deal with gas appliances. My guess is your prematurely choking the fire down. Any way, ACS is a good product. Get some flexable rods, tie rope on the end loop anyway just incase you come unthreaded in the flue, and scrub it up and down. Nylon has to work hard to clean hard creosote, thats why its tough to get into that liner. If you had a chimney fire, it can ruin your liner. Your liner is there for two reasons, one to keep your house from burning down in the event of a chimney fire, second, to assist draft with a efficient appliance. I will say again, there are some real liner pro's at hearth.com, if you dont feel like posting, just use the search feature and you will find tons of info on liners and cleaning them. Hope that helped.

OK, I have been neating my homes with a woodstove for over 18 years. First in PA and now in VT. Wood IS work. You must cut or have it cut to length, stacked, aged, and then you must bring in the wood regularly to burn. I can heat my home up here with 3 cords that will cost about $135 per cord. About $400 for the entire season! I do have oil as backup and I used 250 gallons last year. That's for hot water and backup heat when we were away. I happen to LIKE wood stoves! I like the fire you see when relaxing in front of the stove. The lazy flames that can lower your blood pressure. A pellet stove has a much too "busy" fire for me. It's like watching an oil burner in action. I like the fact that when the power goes out we will have heat AND hot water as we just put a kettle on top of the stove. I don't have to worry either about pellet prices or if the local stores will run out in February as they have done in the past. My home is 1,200 sq ft. I purchased the smallest unit Regency makes and it does the job quite nicely during a Vermont winter when it goes to minus 20 at night. But a 75,000 BTU stove will be WAY too big! You'll either have the windows open all winter or you'll always have a "cold" fire which causes creosote. My stove is rated for 800 to 1,000 sq ft. We don't heat the bedrooms directly as the heat will find it's way there. We want to heat the living areas. So the small unit does the job nicely. So you may want to look at a stove that heats up to 2,000 sq ft. That's a medium sized stove. And in all my years of using a woodstove, we've never seen a termite.

Linelle, a wool-filled comforter is going to be heavier than a down comforter. I don't know how to describe the weight of a comforter, though, so when you ask if it's heavy, I really don't know how to answer that. If you sleep cold my advice is thus: Get wool socks and sleep in them. If your feet are warm, your body will be a lot warmer; Get a white goose down winter-weight comforter, a good one, and a flannel duvet cover for it from either LL Bean or Garnet Hill and sleep under ONLY that, no sheets. Kick it up so that the bottom of the comforter is under your feet, i.e.: like a sleeping bag, and the sides are pulled in right next to your body. You will be toasty warm. And putting duvet comers on comforters is NOT hard at all.